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Old 08-01-2009, 03:37 PM   #1 (permalink)
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DIY Thread Reverse HID



Well... I had spare bulbs (my OEMs, since I replaced mine with 6000K), now I also had spare ballasts (since I had to change my HIDs in my other car), I've figured I'll use them for something. My tints are only 35%, but I was always annoyed by not seeing a lot behind me. Well, now it's a different story Even at daylight, these are blinding. And at night, I see everything behind as bright as day. I'm gonna add some night shots later, too.
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Old 08-01-2009, 03:42 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Holy cow. LOL. Nice Pete.
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Old 08-01-2009, 04:15 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Nice job, Pete. I'd like to see it in person at night one day.
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Old 08-01-2009, 04:21 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Next step is retrofit.
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Old 08-01-2009, 04:39 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VorteC View Post
Holy cow. LOL. Nice Pete.
he he, thanks
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Nice job, Pete. I'd like to see it in person at night one day.
yeah, no prob, we definitely got to meet up one day.
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Next step is retrofit.
retrofit what? This is all done. I actually finished it last weekend, just didn't have time to post and do pics.

It took me like 2 days, though, because first I had to figure out a way to mount the D2S HID bulbs, then mount ballasts, and then I had to install few relays and run a 12 gauge wire from trunk to battery (adding a fuse there). If I didn't care how it looked, it would maybe take few hours. But I can't do sloppy work - not in my nature So now it all looks stock. Although the trunk lid is much heavier now. It stays up, still, but if not held by hand, it could slam too hard when closing. Part of the weight is the spare ballasts I had. They used to be for a dual HID kit, so there's actually 4 boxes attached instead of 2. So if in the future the ballasts fail, I'll definitely get the slim, lighter ones.
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Old 08-01-2009, 05:06 PM   #6 (permalink)
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one day your going to throw ur car into reverse and blind a old lady....anyway nice mod!
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Old 08-01-2009, 05:22 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Old 08-01-2009, 05:35 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Awesome, I was wondering why it was taking you so long to do this mod haha. Looks great though, can't wait for the DIY since it does suck with tint and trying to reverse out at night.
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Old 08-01-2009, 09:27 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I didn't really have time for a full detailed DIY, and this really isn't that complicated, but here are the most important things I'm gonna share with you on how I did mine. Some of them may sound like an overkill, but I did that because I have another project in the works, and I needed to have the extra juice available in the trunk:

1) Ran a 12awg wire from battery to trunk lid area and put a 20A fuse on that wire near the battery side. (If you try to connect HID ballasts directly to the reverse lights circuit wires, you'll blow a fuse.)

2) Installed HID ballasts in the trunk lid area. Again, I used unique ballasts, but if you don't get the whole kit and want just ballasts, you can search ebay for "replacement ballast" and "hid ballast connector" and you can get something like on the below images:


Then you can cut off the blue connectors and connect these wires as explained below in the terminal 30 connection of the relay.

Or you can get slim ballasts like these, so you can minimize the weight in the trunk:

Then you don't need the extra connectors, because as you see there are already input wires there. You'd just have to cut off the black plug.


3) Used 2 SPDT automotive relays (easily found in RadioShack) to power up the ballasts.

1 relay for each ballast. I used 1 for each just as a precaution, because of the specific ballasts I'm using, and because I have quite a few spare relays anyway. But I'm sure you'd be fine with using just one relay for both ballasts. You can also use SPST relay if you find one (because SPDT are just more popular), because you really don't need a dual throw relay. You're not gonna be using terminal 87a at all.
Connect terminals of the relay as follow:
- 87: the voltage wire you ran from the battery.
- 30: the input positive wire of your ballasts (the negative input wire of the ballasts should be grounded to chassis.
- 85: ground to chassis.
- 86: positive input wire from the reverse light circuit - one of the green wires that go to the reverse light bulb.

4) Remove inner tails and remove reverse bulb sockets. You may be able to find a kit with HID bulbs that are plug'n'play for 7440 bulb socket, I don't know, I didn't check, but if you plan to use D2S (or D2R or D2C) bulbs like I did, keep reading below.

5) The D2S bulb collar is slightly larger than the opening for the 7440 bulb in the tail, but not by much. I used a dremel to sand off about 1mm off the perimeter of the opening, so the D2S bulb goes in smoothly. There are also 2 little raised marks on the upper side of the opening, which I lightly cut off with a knife to make sure the bulb collar sits flash with the socket of the opening. Then I used a tiny screw from a HDD to screw in where the notch is in the bulb collar, so that the screw is sitting in the socket of the opening, but it's head is right in the notch of the bulb collar. This prevents the bulb from twisting around. The last thing is to ensure the bulb doesn't fall out. I found a way to hold the bulb in place by bending some hard wire, but it may be easier just to use a hot glue (which I'm gonna add the next time I take the tails out).

6) To connect D2S bulbs to the ballasts, I used cables similar to these:
Just search for "D2S connectors" on ebay and you'll have plenty of choices.

Last edited by Peregrine; 08-02-2009 at 10:41 AM..
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Old 08-02-2009, 01:27 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Nice work man,

Quote:
Originally Posted by Peregrine View Post
- 87: the voltage wire you ran from the battery.
- 30: the input positive wire of your ballasts (the negative input wire of the ballasts should be grounded to chassis.
- 85: ground to chassis.
- 86: positive input wire from the reverse light circuit - one of the green wires that go to the reverse light bulb.
Since you grounded terminal 85 to the frame, how did you determine that the positive reverse light wire was switched? A DMM?
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Old 08-02-2009, 02:45 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Oh you Peregrine..... You said you would not do a HID reverse light but you did anyways! I guess a bit jealous of that guy who did it first. But the question is, do you need to wait 30 seconds to let the bulb warm to park now?

BTW you need a night pic! Also make them 55 watt hids!!!
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Old 08-02-2009, 09:46 AM   #12 (permalink)
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wow nice stuff Pete!
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Old 08-02-2009, 09:54 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Thanks guys

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Nice work man,



Since you grounded terminal 85 to the frame, how did you determine that the positive reverse light wire was switched? A DMM?
Not sure I understand your question. 85 & 86 are 2 sides of a coil which needs to be energized to latch the other 2 terminals. You can ground one of the coil sides, because the green wire will send positive voltage to the coil only when you activate reverse lights.
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Old 08-02-2009, 10:04 AM   #14 (permalink)
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ok, here are night shots and some more info. Before I turned the reverse on, it was total darkness in my driveway. From the below pics, you can see how strong these are now, and how much stronger the reverse light beams are in comparison to the brake lights. You don't need to wait for them to heat up. They do their job right from the start.








The only thing is, when you look at the below pic that's done centrally, you can see how much stronger the driver's side is:

Yesterday, because I was doing the shots, I had them on for about 1-2 min. I never really keep my reverse on for that long. Anyway, because they were on for so long, the driver's side heated up too much. The passeneger's side is perfect - no problems. But the driver's side the lens got deformed a little and the silver paint above the bulb burned, as you can see below:

I bet it's one of those darned ballasts I used. I have to test now what causes that one bulb to be so hot and most likely I'll have to replace the ballasts anyway. As far as the tail, it's a good think I have a spare
But my suggestion is, if you decide to do reverse HID, keep it to the minimum in wattage. Stick to 35W and you should be ok. Go higher than that and you could melt your housings.

Last edited by Peregrine; 08-15-2009 at 11:27 PM..
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Old 08-02-2009, 10:12 AM   #15 (permalink)
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holy sh*t.!!!blinding...
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