Subs

[ccbruin]

Im looking to put a sub or 2 in my 04 TSX. Anyone that does it would be great if you could post some pics. Any problems with the battery draining or stuff like that? Thanks

[That-TSX-Kid]

No pics of mine but Ive got one 10" Alpine Type R and it sounds great! The guy underpowered the amp because at full power the headlights would dim. I also have a DICE audio iPod input in the glove compartment. It drained my battery one time when I left my iPod on it for days... Dont do that haha... Other than that no battery draining here.

[orgasm_donor]

It all depends on how you decide on your power. Here are a few tips to avoid lights dimming:

- Run 1000 watts or less
- Run a class D or 'digital' amplifier for better efficiency
- upgrade your grounds and power at the battery
- Use a good dry cel battery
- upgrade your alternator if you can afford it

[Alec Cobb]

Whats up Alec, I have two kicker 12inch CRV comp. subs, running off a kicker 1000 watt amp. all i have to say is LOUD! i have a custom made box which i got off ebay and it works great. I would suggest kicker obviously, but i have some friends that have Rockford and they hit pretty hard too, the P2 and P3's are good. i would say get my set up its a few years old now, and its still the hardest hitting thing around my town at least, of course 15's and 18's are louder but you no what i mean. i think you can get everything i have for about $500 or so now, when i payed over a grand for mine when it was new. send me an email at cobbalec@yahoo.com and i can send you a few pictures of mine and my friends set up, hope you had a good break, let me no how your cars coming id love to see it.
Alec

[KenTK808]

To prevent your headlights from dimming you could run a capacitor. Heres a article about them. Car Audio Capacitors - Why You Can't Do Without Them

[orgasm_donor]

Originally Posted by KenTK808

To prevent your headlights from dimming you could run a capacitor. Heres a article about them. Car Audio Capacitors - Why You Can't Do Without Them

Sorry but I would have to disagree with that statement. It has long been known that capacitors are nothing but a marketing ploy to make consumers buy accessories. Although they do store energy, it is simply not enough to have any positive long term effects on your charging system - it is nothing but a band-aid. Ultimately it is up to your car and its alternator to make your electronics good or bad. If your alternator only puts out 130 amps, you will only have 130 amps MAX to play with. A capacitor will not increase your amperage. In fact, it will rob your electrical system of much needed amperage because of resistance and constantly drawing, charging and discharging from your battery.

That said, Kinetik and odyssey batteries work much like a cap. They have very quick charge and discharge rates a lot like a capacitor does only its high amperage takes care of the rest of the charging flaws that a cap doesn't take care of. Plus, their measured capacitance is equal to about 100+ capacitors in one fairly small battery. These batteries are tough and are ready to be used and abused BUT only if your alternator is willing to keep up with it. Thicker power and ground wires make a much bigger difference than even a 40 farad capacitor cap can.

[slimbo]

Ya capacitors can hurt your electricalsssss, but I'm also running 2 12" cvr's
In a kicker pro bass box. 1000 Watt amp, just have good wiring and a respectable battery.

[slimbo]

Ya capacitors can hurt your electricalsssss, but I'm also running 2 12" cvr's
In a kicker pro bass box. 1000 Watt amp, just have good wiring and a respectable battery.

[jvan]

I use to run two 12inch Kicker L7's with a kicker 1200 watt amp with a bass knob and cap. in a custom box, ohh boy they were loud with some clean deep bass. I didn't upgrade the battery but I was fine (only ran them for 4months), but you should upgrade it anyways.
IMHO The only thing I noticed when I got the cap. was how the taillights didn't dim as much when the bass hit but thats compared to my friend's tsx with the same set up without a cap. But hey 2 different cars= 2 different results.
I would recommend looking through Craigslist for some subs if your on a budget, I picked up my set up for only 500$ total with everything including wires.
I would recommend Kicker too for the price but I've used a JL w7 b4 and I have to say I would prefer ONE 12in JL w7 over TWO 12in Kicker L7's. Just worry about the box that will fit, I sold my stuff b/c I needed trunk space since I moved out.
You should check out the non-classified section ulike_ubuy2005 has a really nice sub and amp combo for a very very nice price. I'd buy it if I had the money to.

[eckotyper]

quick question, searched and came up short...

is it possible to run subs on a stock tsx head unit? i have a 04 tsx with navigation, and would love to keep the stock unit for obvious reasons.

[orgasm_donor]

Originally Posted by eckotyper

quick question, searched and came up short...

is it possible to run subs on a stock tsx head unit? i have a 04 tsx with navigation, and would love to keep the stock unit for obvious reasons.

The stock amplifier is a steaming pile of...ummm...not very good. Power is about 20 watts per channel I figure MAX. You can integrate an aftermarket amplifier for your sub by using a high-low converter. Run the high level from your rear speakers into the converter and then run RCA's from there to the amp. Its even better if you have a bass knob for the amp so you can easily control the subwoofer with a separate dial. Just remember that you will also need a fused power wire from the battery to the amplifier, ground the amp to chassis and of course an amplifier turn-on wire to tell the amp to turn on.

[harmonichonda]

Originally Posted by eckotyper

quick question, searched and came up short...

is it possible to run subs on a stock tsx head unit? i have a 04 tsx with navigation, and would love to keep the stock unit for obvious reasons.

Plenty of options, and prices have come down since i got my processor:

take your pick based on your budget all are fine, I ordered them for you cheapest to most expensive based on 04-05 with navigation compatibility

MTX re-Q Bass restoration signal processor Get full bass response when adding amps to a factory system at Crutchfield.com

Alpine PXA-H100 IMPRINT™ Audio Processor Tunes your Alpine receiver to your vehicle's acoustics at Crutchfield.com








Alpine PXE-H650 IMPRINT™ sound processor Get top performance from a full audio system while retaining your factory stereo at Crutchfield.com

JL Audio CL441dsp CleanSweep® Sound processor for use when adding amps and speakers to a factory system at Crutchfield Signature

Rockford Fosgate 3SIXTY.2 Interactive signal processor Expand and fine-tune your factory or brand-name stereo system at Crutchfield Signature

[ccbruin]

Originally Posted by orgasm_donor

The stock amplifier is a steaming pile of...ummm...not very good. Power is about 20 watts per channel I figure MAX. You can integrate an aftermarket amplifier for your sub by using a high-low converter. Run the high level from your rear speakers into the converter and then run RCA's from there to the amp. Its even better if you have a bass knob for the amp so you can easily control the subwoofer with a separate dial. Just remember that you will also need a fused power wire from the battery to the amplifier, ground the amp to chassis and of course an amplifier turn-on wire to tell the amp to turn on.

Can't u just keep the stock amp for the speakers and just. Hook up a new one for the sub normally? Without all that rear speaker s***?

[orgasm_donor]

Originally Posted by ccbruin

Can't u just keep the stock amp for the speakers and just. Hook up a new one for the sub normally? Without all that rear speaker s***?

Yes, thats what I was reffering to. Run the fronts and rears off of the stock amp then run a larger, better amp to the sub(s) for some real power. You have to give the aftermarket amplifier signal though, so 'tapping' into the rear speakers for signal would be just fine. There is no other real way to grab signal without either getting it at the speakers or at the deck output (at low level).

[ccbruin]

Originally Posted by orgasm_donor

Yes, thats what I was reffering to. Run the fronts and rears off of the stock amp then run a larger, better amp to the sub(s) for some real power. You have to give the aftermarket amplifier signal though, so 'tapping' into the rear speakers for signal would be just fine. There is no other real way to grab signal without either getting it at the speakers or at the deck output (at low level).

so if you 'tapped' into the rear speakers you would not need to run any wires to the deck?