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Very hard MT shifting into gears while car is on

11K views 9 replies 3 participants last post by  carbonatd 
#1 ·
Hi,

While the car is off, I can shift 1-6 and R with no problems. When the car is on, I really have to jam it into 1st gear, and sometimes other gears as well. I've read other posts for this problem, and my clutch slave cylinder does have some browning looking fluid on it. Unfortunately, I ordered the master cylinder, and prices are not cheap these days ($130 after shipping and tax). I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with auto-parts store slave cylinders (leaning towards Napa over O'Rielly or Autozone). My 04 TSX has 210,000 miles on it, stock clutch, and I probably won't be owning it much longer as it has some other issues (stereo cycles through AM/FM/CD sequentially during start up, power door locks are flakey, and I burn about a quart of oil ever 1k miles). Still gets 30mpg on the highway though.

I'm hoping to get by with some cheaper parts just to see me through to the end. Has anyone bought a slave cylinder from Napa or other local store and installed it? Has it held up?

Thanks
 
#3 ·
I have been reading up on a separate thread,(acura zine.com/forums/1g-tsx-problems-fixes-128/solved-clutch-pedal-low-engagement-point-837892/) and I think I'm going to try adjusting my clutch first. The engagement point is very close to when the clutch is fully pushed in, so I'm wondering if I just need an adjustment. Oh, and I have a lot of squeaks and groaning noises from the clutch pedal itself, which I've read is definitely the CMC. Fluid around the SMC is suspicious, but I'm also lazy. =D. My clutch fluid reservoir is in between the min/max levels, so I don't think I have a serious leak. Maybe I will just try to bleed and adjust the pedal throw. Thoughts?
 
#4 ·
First thing I would do before buying anything is changing the transmission fluid. Make sure you go with the Honda/Acura brand for the fluid as it is specially formulated for honda/acura transmissions with special additives in it. Sounds like a similar problem a buddy of mine had in his tsx and when he changed the fluid it was fine. Changing the fluids on time is one of the best and easiest thing you can do for your car.

If the transmission fluid change does not fix it you may have a bent clutch fork or another problem. But I would start off by changing the fluid first and seeing how that goes.
 
#5 ·
The pedal creak is definitely due to the CMC failure. If you don't want to replace it yet, you can always lubricate the clutch pedal using the instructions from this thread. This should alleviate the creaking sound temporarily until you decide to replace it.

http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/1st-gen-car-care/52595-diy-clicking-clutch-noise-fix.html

Since your CSC is leaking though, I would just replace both the CMC and CSC at the same time since you're going to need to refill and bleed the clutch fluid anyway. The CSC is much cheaper than the CMC and you can find plenty of after market alternatives since you don't plan to keep your car. Here's one for $30.

2004-2007 Acura TSX Clutch Slave Cylinder - Clutch - Dorman 04-07 TSX Clutch Slave Cylinder - 17778-09045496 - PartsGeek

As for the DIY, you can search the service manual for the instructions to do that.
http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/1st-gen-problems-fixes/42765-service-manual-download-pdf.html
 
#6 ·
Thanks much! I'm in the process of removing both the CMC and the SMC now. SMC was easy. The CMC however, what a PITA. I can't seem to wiggle it out as the hardline seems stuck along a slot in the firewall. I've removed one plastic clip holding the hardline in place, and unbolted the bracket where the hardline meets rubber line, but so far I just can't seem to get it out. Going to go drink some beers and keep trying!
 
#8 ·
Wow, so the insulation on the hardline was stuck on something, and so I couldn't remove the CMC without applying a lot of force. My line is all mangled now, but I've actually managed to install the new CMC, however the bolts are coming in behind the clutch bracket since it sags a bit. I'm wondering, do I need to remove the clutch bracket entirely prior to reinstalling? It might just be the only option. Anyone have any experience with this?
 
#10 ·
Thanks much! I saw that video earlier, and it was helpful.

I've completed the install, but had some issues bleeding the lines at first. After another go around, the clutch pedal is feeling back to normal, and surprisingly everything works as it should! The car shifts smoothly now. No issues with first gear or reverse.

Thanks for all your help guys! I was worried this forum would be a ghost town what with TLXs and ILXs running around *scoff*
 
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