'06 Hondata reflash pro/con - Acura TSX Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-29-2016, 04:12 AM Thread Starter
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'06 Hondata reflash pro/con

Hey all. I have an 06 A/t and was thinking about getting it ref lashed. 30 h.p. Sounds nice. What are the pros and cons of having this done. Car has 158k on it but runs really good. The lure of more power is tempting BUT, I don't want to open a can of worms and create problems. Hondata says VTEC will come in at 4850 with the flash. How much affect will this have on drive ability ? How about fuel usage ? Any adverse affect on mpg with this ? I don't drive it hard but I hit VTEC after replacing timng chain, tensioner,guides and VCT actuator. Coming in at 6k you can really feel it but coming in at 4850 may be more practical. Any input welcome.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-29-2016, 08:14 AM
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Zero downside other than having the TSX down for a few days waiting for the ECU to get reflashed.

I decided against the reflash for my 06 TSX+5AT and did my 08 RDX instead. The extra power for the TSX would have been a plus for me since I drive at 5000ft-7500ft most of time. Once I purchased the RDX as our main travel vehicle and family hauler, the TSX was reduced to weekday commuter and weekend errands only. It also helps to add to the TSX an aftermarket intake, header, and exhaust upgrades to maximize the reflash. It was going to cost too much $$$ to really add power to the TSX to satisfy me. One of the main reasons I purchased the RDX with sh-awd and added Hondata reflash, Eibach lowering springs, Progress RSB, hondata heatshield gasket, and ETS intercooler.

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-29-2016, 10:29 AM
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I am not sure if you going to get 30hp out of just a reflash. You would need other supporting mods to possibly get that.

One down side is once you reflash it you can't go back to stock unless you send in your exu again. You can't tune it anymore if you plan on adding other mods.

The only time I did just a reflash was when they did not have hondata to be able to tune it your self as many times as you wanted.

If you want to make the most out of your reflash you should do all the mods you want to do to your car before you get one. Intake, exhaust ect........

MPG and drivability will be very minimal IMO.

Opinions will vary.

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-29-2016, 01:05 PM
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Con: Definetly not being able to use the car while you wait for Hondata to return the ECU.

Pro: More balanced, steady powerband. I haven't noticed a decrease in gas mileage, but if you get the mod, you'll probably want to drive it a bit more aggressive at least in the beginning so it may give the illusion that gas mileage is worse.

Five years ago, I knew I didn't want to modify the intake, header, or exhaust, so the Hondata reflash was perfect for me for a reliable performance boost. And for the price, it's a great value.

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 12:03 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Velocifero View Post
Con: Definetly not being able to use the car while you wait for Hondata to return the ECU.

Pro: More balanced, steady powerband. I haven't noticed a decrease in gas mileage, but if you get the mod, you'll probably want to drive it a bit more aggressive at least in the beginning so it may give the illusion that gas mileage is worse.

Five years ago, I knew I didn't want to modify the intake, header, or exhaust, so the Hondata reflash was perfect for me for a reliable performance boost. And for the price, it's a great value.
That's what I was thinking. Bang for the buck with just a reflash. Don't want to modify anything else with 157k on it. It would be nice to get VTEC at a lower RPM. I see the immobilized has to go in with the ECU . Is this whole reflash a drop in with no other problems once it gets re-installed ?
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-31-2016, 04:37 AM
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Before doing the reflash, you should read sonyfever's post about his TSX mods. He gave an overview of the pros and cons for the reflash and ultimately decided that he wanted more power than the reflash would provide. Excellent read especially if you're just starting on your modding journey. Spoiler alert, he's not seeing a 30hp gain even with all of his mods.

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In my opinion, your money would be much better spent on upgrading tires, brakes, suspension which would yield better driving dynamics. Unless you were going to do supercharger, I don't think the reflash, intake, and headers would be worth the money especially since you have an automatic.

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-01-2017, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
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Long read for sure but answered my question. I will spend the money elsewhere.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-02-2017, 08:10 AM
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Some guys have no idea what are they taking about.

The ECU reflash transforms your car in a much better one, due highly improved acceleration no matter if you have AT or MT.
The stock map on the car is rubbish it has a sedate tune with VTEC at 6000rpm only and it is unusable due the fact the rpm cut is at 7000rpm. The 1000 rpm VTEC window is way too small, every time you will change gears at 7000rpm you will end up under VTEC window which is crazy.
The stock tune is just rubbish from performance point of view.

The ECU reflash corrects the stock tune, it offers you VTEC window from 4600 to 7600 rpm which is instantly noticed when you floor it, and much better throttle response, so the ECU reflash is a must have! (and all these for just, 300$) .

And if you want to maximize your reflash add some good exhaust headers with high flow cat. This is the best combo, you don't need a catback for this (reflash + good headers and HFC) => the best gain for your buck, it will wake up your sedate sedan, just much more mid-range without any added sound drama like noisy intake or catback.
You will love the investment (reflash + headers + HFC ~ 1000$) you will gain up to 35-40hp on the mid-range which is a lot.

'07 Euro Accord CL9 Type-S: Mugen Quick Shift, Alutec strut-bar, H&R front and rear anti-roll bars kit, A-Spec suspension, JDM Type-S front grille, Wavetrac LSD, FlashPro, littlebo's headers, Comptech Icebox, Hondata IM gasket, P2R IM gasket, J35 TB + larger TB to intake box pipe + IM port matched, Flashpro vittuned
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-02-2017, 09:13 AM
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When I skipped the reflash for my 06 5AT TSX, I decided to spend the money on:
- K/N drop in filter
- Aspec suspension
- Progress RSB
- Aspec body kit
- lighter aftermarket rims
- ultra high performance all season tires (Bridgestones 960 at first, now in love with Conti DWS)
- fastline adjustable rear endlinks

Even if I spent $5000 for the Comptech S/C and another $1200 for I/H/E; I would still only have around the power as any V-6 Camry/Accord/Altima on the road back then. The huge advantages the TSX has over any other sedan at the time for the same $$$ was handling and luxury/tech upgrades (HIDs, Navi, sporty interior touches, screaming engine, 6MT option, crap load of airbags, tight suspension, exclusivity, etc...).

With or without the suspension/tires upgrades, you can carry more speed into a corner and need less hp out with the TSX. The reflash would help bump the exit speed a bit. I think the suspension/tires upgrades will give you more speed than the reflash alone when the road gets twisty (assuming you have mountains or curvy roads you like to drive).

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-02-2017, 09:49 AM
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Like I said everyone has their own opinions.

My main reason to not do a reflash is you can't go back or adjust it when you add more stuff like I would want to. Plus if you ever take it to a dealer for work they usually have issues with it if you have some sort of warranty on your car. I realize a warranty on these cars are getting less common the older they get.

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Last edited by obert; 01-02-2017 at 01:06 PM.
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-02-2017, 04:09 PM
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Yes, some instead spends 4000-5000$ on aesthetic stuff, skirts, bigger expensive wheels and tires, low flush suspension, etc, but nothing to the engine and in the end the car is just show but no go

Any car with ECU reflashed/+headers car with 300-1000$ investment and decent tires will be much more faster than the first one with 5000$ investment in aestethic stuff only

So yes, is true, it depends what you want, an expensive show but no go car or a much faster sleeper car

If you have money for both is the ideal case, in the end is about what you want and what you can get in a certain budget.

'07 Euro Accord CL9 Type-S: Mugen Quick Shift, Alutec strut-bar, H&R front and rear anti-roll bars kit, A-Spec suspension, JDM Type-S front grille, Wavetrac LSD, FlashPro, littlebo's headers, Comptech Icebox, Hondata IM gasket, P2R IM gasket, J35 TB + larger TB to intake box pipe + IM port matched, Flashpro vittuned
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-02-2017, 04:12 PM
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Sorry a 250 hp car is far from a sleeper car.

Maybe is by sleeper you mean the car is actually sleeping while the car next to it goes by

Reflash you will be lucky to make a true 215 whp with other bolt-on parts

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Last edited by obert; 01-02-2017 at 04:16 PM.
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-02-2017, 04:16 PM
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I guess we could have different type of degrees when referring to a sleeper, for instant I saw civic type r fn2 or 3L BMW, being beaten by CL9 cars with just reflash and exhaust headers, this kind of sleeper when no one expected such thing from a family sedan with a stock look.
If for you a sleeper means something else like something that can beat a Ferrari cars I don't know.

In the end I'm talking about what you can achieve with a decent investment before going crazy and spend money at a logarithmic rate.

Don't look only at the top gain. I saw dynos with reflash I/H/E with up to 40hp on the middle.
Mid-range is very important, (look at the versus made by Hondata, civic 1.5 turbo Vs civic si with more HP. The first one wins due more mid-range power).

It's sad to see people wasting their small budget only on not so important aestethic stuff, when we are lucky to have one of the best NA engine built by Honda under the hood (but with the wrong tune from factory but at least easily fixable by a decent investment).

Don't get me wrong, I'm not against any other things like suspension, wheels and tires, k20 head, supercharger, etc, I'm just talking from the point of a certain budget, that I'll start first by fixing what was wrong from the factory, the engine tune, being the cheapest thing and most rewarding Vs money invested.

Sure if you have money for others bigger upgrades, sure you can go the Flash Pro route and so on.

'07 Euro Accord CL9 Type-S: Mugen Quick Shift, Alutec strut-bar, H&R front and rear anti-roll bars kit, A-Spec suspension, JDM Type-S front grille, Wavetrac LSD, FlashPro, littlebo's headers, Comptech Icebox, Hondata IM gasket, P2R IM gasket, J35 TB + larger TB to intake box pipe + IM port matched, Flashpro vittuned
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-02-2017, 04:18 PM
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OIC now thanks

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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-03-2017, 03:01 AM Thread Starter
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I am an old fart who always had sleepers. Still do. I just want to get a few more ponies out of this I4 car but with 157k on it I probably should leave it alone. The other side of the coin is at 157k do I really want to run it up to 6k rpm to get the VTEC power when I can reflash for 300 and have useable VTEC way down in the rpm range ? This car gets fantastic (for me) gas mileage at 24/34 still and I don't want to hurt that.
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