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Old 12-29-2009, 01:28 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Rear inside brake caliper stuck - Uneven pad wear

Hey everyone. I've got a 2008 TSX and with about 27,000 miles and recently my rear brakes have started to make a terrible screeching sound. It would be very inconsistent. Sometimes it occurs when I'm braking, other times it would just be during coasting or even accelerating.

Today I took off my rear brakes, first off, it was super tough to take off the caliper. I've worked with a bunch of other cars before, but this caliper was super tight. 2ndly, the inside brake pads are basically worn all the way down, but the outside pads are seeing normal wear. It seems to me that the inside pad/caliper is staying clamped even when i'm not braking, causing the uneven wear and the crazy screeching was from the pad being worn all the way down.

I've heard of people on these forums NEVER changing their rear pads or only after 100,000+ miles. To need to change my rear pads at 27,000 is ridiculous and the fact that it's got severe uneven wear between the inside and the outside pad has got me concerned. For now I've simply swapped the pads with new ones, but I'm gonna check back in a week to see if the problem still occurs.

Any ideas? Anybody else experience this before? If the problem persists, i'm gonna get it checked out by the dealership as it should be covered under warranty. Thanks in advance!
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Old 12-29-2009, 08:30 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Considering you probably don't have snow/salt in your area, it seems odd that your rear caliper could be seized due to weather conditions. Have you ever accidentally driven with your handbrake up? An overheated caliper could seize. Either way, the rear pads on the 1G TSX do wear faster than the fronts, so I'm not sure where you got that 100k rear pad life from.

At the end of the day though, if you're under warranty, Acura should replace the caliper for you unless there's damage there that they deem not under-warranty (caused by misuse).
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Old 12-29-2009, 08:47 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Is the car still under warranty of any type? If so bring it to a dealership and let them check it over
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Old 12-29-2009, 07:37 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I am at 84k and rear pads are still at above 25 percent... changed front a couple of times but way before time. You know there is something wrong by the simple fact that one pad is wearing way more than the other... Are you the only owner? (You never know what people will do before you)
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Old 12-29-2009, 10:48 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I am and have been the only owner. I guess we'll just see after a week and i check on my brakes again.
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Old 12-30-2009, 08:52 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Yeah the rear pads wear out at about a 2-to-1 rate compared to the fronts. I replace the rears every 18-24 months, and the fronts about every 48 months.
Get the caliper checked out (warranty) and be prepared to replace rear pads every other year.
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Old 12-30-2009, 09:04 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curls View Post
Yeah the rear pads wear out at about a 2-to-1 rate compared to the fronts. I replace the rears every 18-24 months, and the fronts about every 48 months.
Get the caliper checked out (warranty) and be prepared to replace rear pads every other year.
Wow not at all... Specially considering the front pads+calipers provide 70-75 percent of the stopping power... You have it completelly backwards, front ones will wear out way before the rear ones...
In any event, back to the original issue, since you are still under warranty why dont you go and get some warranty work done and tell us whats up?
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Old 12-30-2009, 09:41 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I avoid the Dealership like it's the plague. I'm going to do some more testing on my own, then after getting a better understanding of it, I'll take it there. I bet for some stupid reason they'll pin it against my suspension or some other aftermarket part.
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Old 12-30-2009, 11:19 AM   #9 (permalink)
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^ yes, they deff will say that because you are lowered and have aftermarket parts, that "causes" the pads to wear prematurely. i will bet alot of money they say that. my rears needed to be changed at about 40k. i did the fronts at the same time, but they weren't needed yet. Deff just keep an eye on it. you can get rebuilt calipers for the rear for about $100 or so. and its a pretty easy job.
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Old 12-30-2009, 11:49 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newapocalypse View Post
Wow not at all... Specially considering the front pads+calipers provide 70-75 percent of the stopping power... You have it completelly backwards, front ones will wear out way before the rear ones...
In any event, back to the original issue, since you are still under warranty why dont you go and get some warranty work done and tell us whats up?
Well when the front pads have about 40% more thickness to them, and the pads are wider (hence the "more stopping power"), you'd expect them to wear less than the rears.

Search here and on the other forum... it's VERY common that the fronts last almost 2x as long as the rears. I religulously maintain my brakes - servicing them every spring and fall, and with totally even pad wear between inside and outside pads, the rears still wear much faster (per set) than the fronts. It's due to the design of the pad (thinner / less 'meat') and the brake bias of the car (which seems to favour rear pads more than a typical car does).
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Old 12-30-2009, 01:19 PM   #11 (permalink)
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To the op, i dont know if you know that the rear brakes with built in parking brakes on the TSX you need the turn the caliper piston for it to go back inside. If you try to force it back in with out turning it, chances are you can mess up the whole rear brake caliper.
And yes the rears wears faster then the fronts on the tsx, i changed the rears before the fronts. I hope this help.
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Old 12-30-2009, 05:20 PM   #12 (permalink)
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From my personnal experience with rear Honda disk.

The backplate(of the pad) need to be filed.

There is a big "burr" from the "shear effect" around where the pad will mate the SS Shim inside the carrier.
You want the pad to be free when you put them on the carrier.
If you use force(hammered them or whatever) there is a good chance that the pad, once you press the pedal that it will drag, hence, the difference in wear.

I give the back plate on both end, a nice "grind" so that when you put them on, they will "feel" like they will drop by themself.

Because of that, I never had problem with rear pad problem whatsoever.

It is true that if you were driving in salty roads, there would be a good chance that the rear caliper could be seized.
Since the back dosen't receive too much percentage of braking force, the caliper don't see too much heat and then, they rust!!

If you "bang" your pads to go in, sounds like there's the start of the problem.
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Old 12-30-2009, 06:03 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I didn't bang my pads to put them back in. I had used a tool to press the caliper piston back. Putting the caliper back on with new pads was super easy. Taking them off was a pain. Does anyone else experience that?
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Old 12-30-2009, 10:03 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by francois View Post
From my personnal experience with rear Honda disk.

The backplate(of the pad) need to be filed.

There is a big "burr" from the "shear effect" around where the pad will mate the SS Shim inside the carrier.
You want the pad to be free when you put them on the carrier.
If you use force(hammered them or whatever) there is a good chance that the pad, once you press the pedal that it will drag, hence, the difference in wear.

I give the back plate on both end, a nice "grind" so that when you put them on, they will "feel" like they will drop by themself.

Because of that, I never had problem with rear pad problem whatsoever.

It is true that if you were driving in salty roads, there would be a good chance that the rear caliper could be seized.
Since the back dosen't receive too much percentage of braking force, the caliper don't see too much heat and then, they rust!!

If you "bang" your pads to go in, sounds like there's the start of the problem.
^^^^^^^
OEM Pads all need a grind and lube prior to install.
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Old 12-31-2009, 07:24 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zildjonkim View Post
I didn't bang my pads to put them back in. I had used a tool to press the caliper piston back. Putting the caliper back on with new pads was super easy. Taking them off was a pain. Does anyone else experience that?
This might be a little off but when I did the rotors for my car the calipers came right off and went right back on with little or no force
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