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DIY Axle Replacement

93K views 38 replies 27 participants last post by  ScottTSX 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Just bought an new axle and finally fixed the clunking from a stop and vibration during 60 mph. I was going to replace the inner joint and boot but my outer joint was clicking as well so i bought the whole axle.

Replaced only PASSENGER SIDE (right side)
for 05 TSX. It should be similar for the drivers side as well with the exception of a little tranny fluid coming out.



Tools and Materials used:
-Pair of jack Stands
-floor jack
-1/2 and 3/8 ratchet
-36mm socket
-1/2 breaker bar
-3/8 torque wrench
-10mm,17mm, 19mm socket and box end wrenches
-large bar or pry bar
-hammer
-Pin Punch
-Pliers
-PB Blaster (if necessary)
-New cotter pin
-New 36mm axle nut
-OEM Axle courtesy of the homies pops works at the warehouse.

Step 1 Make sure your car is in park and hand brake is up. This is important so the hub doesn't move when you try to break the axle nut loose. Also, remove center cap.


Step 2 Loosen axle nut with 36mm socket and half inch breaker bar. The bolt didn't take too much to break loose. You may not be so lucky, if so id use a pole or something to gain leverage.


Step 3 Loosen lug nuts while car is on the ground and jack up the car and remove wheel

Step 4 Remove axle nut



Step 5 Remove cotter pin under lower ball joint with a pair of pliers and remove castle nut with 17mm socket



Step 6 Challenging part for me was releasing the lower ball joint from the assembly because its tapered into the arm. My method was taking my hammer and beating the side of it to break it loose. You can use a pickle fork or rent the tool to remove it also.



Step 7 Remove the wishbone or fork with you're 17mm box end wrench and 17mm ratchet. This will give you space to take it out



Step 8 Carefully tap on the end of the axle to remove it from the hub.


Step 9 I used a bar and used parts of the car for leverage to pop out the axle. You might want to remove the splash guard to gain access. I just took one 10mm nut off and held the splash guard back. It took a few of tries to remove the axle. You need a little bit off force to remove it.Try twisting it too, and then try to pry it off.



Step 10 Now install the inner boot into the extended shaft first. You'll know if you did it right when axle is seated flush with it. You got to give it a good shove but make sure splines are aligned. Don't force it though. Also, my axle came with grease inside. if yours doesn't use a small amount.

You can see the grease from the old cv boot splattered inside. should of done this sooner

This is the bottom view of what it should look like when seated correctly


After i inserted the other end into the hub I first the aligned the lower ball joint and inserted it back into place. Then thread the 36mm nut a couple threads in just to hold in place.

After that the process of removing is in reverse!
1.Align fork with lower arm and insert bolt and torque back into place.(however they say to tighten this part when the car is on the ground or it will stress the bushing)
2.Place nut back onto lower ball joint and torque to spec
3.Dont forget cotter pin!
4.Place wheel back on and lug nuts
5.place car down and torque lug nuts in star pattern
6.torque axle nut( i didn't torque however I did put an extremely good amount of force with the breaker bar)
7.take pin punch or chisel and hammer nut into place.

Good luck

here are the following torque specs:
Castle nut : 32lb ft
Fork nut and bolt : 47lb ft
Lug nuts: 80lb ft
Axle nut : 181lb ft (I didnt torque this part but i did put an extemely good amount of force into it)
 
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#4 ·
Thanks man. Hopefully, I save some people time and money.

Mine clicks from starts and sometimes when turning as well as the vibrations. Can I ask how much the axle was? OEM is pretty darn expensive.
Yeah, check if it is your left or right axle first that clicks. When turning left its the right axle and in vice versa for the left axle.

About $400 for the axle...well worth it though. The homies pops works at american honda in torrance and he hooked it up with an employee discount. So i came out saving like almost 2 bills. I HEARD aftermarket axles are junk, so oem was my only option.
 
#10 ·
the warrenty usually covers major stuff like engine , transmission , but it wont cover any electrical or wearoff parts. Axle wears off, so are brakes, rotors , tires. all that , i hope im wrong i got 5 year 100,000 power terrain warranty as well.
 
#12 ·
Notes in addition to what is mentioned: If you only need to do the inner joint you do not need to remove the nut at the spindle. Also, rather than hitting the lower control arm with a hammer to release the lower ball joint, you can use a much simpler technique found here:

 
#13 · (Edited)
Drive shafts

Ok I have replaced half shafts on my civic as well, and if you have to have OEM Honda shafts that is up to you, but I like my money too much to spend $400 each half shaft, check out "RockAuto.com" I just looked up half shafts for an 07 TSX, $40 to $60 each. I have used Rock Auto for all most all of my parts, I have worked on many different cars and trucks, never had a problem and they ship same day and you will have your parts in 2 to 3 days. I think my half shafts actually came from O’Reilly because they will back them with lifetime warranty, if they fail keep your receipt and they will give you a brand new one free. I know I have put 80 to 100K on the ones from O’Reilly. If I remember they were $60 each.

This was put back on the road with Rock Auto parts 93 civic @213K miles
 
#14 ·
Ok I have replaced half shafts on my civic as well, and if you have to have OEM Honda shafts that is up to you, but I like my money too much to spend $400 each half shaft, check out "RockAuto.com" I just looked up half shafts for an 07 TSX, $40 to $60 each. I have used Rock Auto for all most all of my parts, I have worked on many different cars and trucks, never had a problem and they ship same day and you will have your parts in 2 to 3 days. I think my half shafts actually came from O’Reilly because they will back them with lifetime warranty, if they fail keep your receipt and they will give you a brand new one free. I know I have put 80 to 100K on the ones from O’Reilly. If I remember they were $60 each.

This was put back on the road with Rock Auto parts 93 civic @213K miles
I was getting some clicks and just purchased an half shaft from Rockauto for about $70 shipped. Should be here next week sometime. When my passenger side went out about 4 years ago during a bad winter storm and I had to pay Acura $700+ to fix one axle, NEVER AGAIN!
 
#19 ·
Also, I've never seen a Honda half-shaft cause any problems, wear out, or break at all. I know it can happen but it must be extremely rare. I'd severely hesitate before replacing this part. Peace of mind costs people a lot of unnecessary money.
 
#23 ·
Hello yall. I bought a use front outershaft axle. The threads where the axle nut is fitted got chipped off during shipment. Should I be worried? Also, for the last part, " 7.take pin punch or chisel and hammer nut into place." Can someone clarify this step. Why is this necessary?

 
#26 ·
My aftermarket (passenger side only) axle shook the whole car when accelerating from 30-40 mph. Thanks to this board, I went back to the repair shop, and asked them to rebuild my original axle. Luckily for me, the repair shop made the correction by rebuilding the original axle, and installing it free of charge.
 
#31 ·
I'm replacing the inner joint and I'm having a bit of trouble getting the passenger side off the splines. What's the best place to apply pressure to remove the inner joint off of the extension shaft splines?
It can be a bear to get that one out. You'll need to use different methods...perhaps getting a piece of wood to hammer against to try and knock it out?
 
#35 ·
Here are the steps how to step for replacement two CV joint axles

1. Start by disconnecting the battery, jacking up the vehicle and allowing some penetrating oil to soak into any retaining bolts.

2. Moving brake lines and other obstacles out of the way of wrenches is a good bet before beginning.

3. Loosening but not removing the strut top mounts and sway bar end link bushings can provide a bit more suspension travel for easier axle removal.

4. and remove the wheel side axle mounting bolts.

5. Separate the axle from the wheel. Do not allow the axle to hang from the transmission or differential. Oil seals could be damaged.arare

6. Gently pull, pry or otherwise liberate the axle from the transmission or differential. Do not bend axle seals. Be careful not to tear the transmission or differential oil seals.

7. The axle splines on the left show damage. Note the c-clip on both axles.

8. Don't forget to transfer any axle seals, ABS rings or other parts to the replacement axles.

9. Guide the replacement CV joint axle into place. Depending on the type of retainer, the axle should click firmly in place.

10. Always use the proper torque on the axle bolts. Check axle rotation. Reassemble dismantled components.
 
#36 ·
Want more DIY car maintenance tips? Register now. How to replace CV joint axle. For many years, the much-ballyhooed invention of the wheel has overshadowed the most likely, near-simultaneous invention of an equally important modern innovation: the axle. Without the axle, the wheel would not do anyone much good.
 
#38 ·
All front wheel drive and independent rear suspension cars utilize a CV axle to deliver power from the engine to the wheels. These CV axles have six balls inside a CV joint that acts as a universal that allows extreme movement while delivering smooth rotational energy.
 
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