Issue with Tein Flex-Z Coilovers - Acura TSX Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-15-2017, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
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Issue with Tein Flex-Z Coilovers

I'm the original owner of my 2005 TSX. I previously had Eibach Pro-Kit springs with Koni Sport struts and SPC camber kits all around. I had this setup for nearly 200k miles without issue. I recently had to replace my clutch, so while the subframe was out, I figured I'd take the opportunity to refresh the majority of my suspension. I installed the following suspension items: Tein Flex-Z coilovers (height is set at 25" from floor to fender edge through wheel center on level surface and even tire pressure all around). This is about 1/4" lower than my previous Eibach/Koni setup. Preload is as I received them (snug, but I can make them turn them with some effort). I set the damper stiffness at the Tein recommended settings of 8 (center of range). Additionally, I had the OEM rack rand axles rebuilt and replaced the following items:

Acura OEM:
Front Upper Control Arms with new SPC 1.5 degree camber kits
Front sway bar bushings

Moog:
Front Lower Control Arms
Inner and Outer Tie rod ends
Front Lower ball joints
F & R Sway bar end links

The issue i'm having is that over slight dips in the road, it sometimes feels as tough i've hit a giant pot hole. I lifted the car and triple checked that everything was tight. I noticed that it looks as though the upper control arms are hitting the shock towers which would explain the exaggerated noise from a slight dip in the road. I can't figure out why this would be happening. Is this mild drop too low? Are the dampening setting way too soft? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

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'05 TSX
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-17-2017, 01:47 PM
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Can you further describe what you mean by feels as though if you've hit a giant pot hole? Is it just making a sound or are you feeling a clunk? Is the car actually dipping down and back up as if you've gone into a pothole?

You should not be bottoming out and hitting suspension components even at the lowest/softest damper setting. If you've gone too low, you may shorten suspension travel too much and cause the suspension to bottom out easily. Doesn't sound like you've gone too low though but there's a chance.

In my experience with using Tein coilovers in my other car, the entire assembly was way shorter than the OEM assembly cutting a lot of suspension travel. I ended up raising the car a bit by lengthening the shock body, running no preload and the quirks went away.

I did have a clunk after replacing shocks and other bits on my TSX. It ended up being that I didn't tighten one of the nuts on the rear sway bar end links to the proper torque spec so it might be a good place for you to check as well.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-17-2017, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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The Tein coilovers were in fact way shorter overall than the Eiback/Koni setup that I had previously, but this is normal. I guess the sound it made is what you can imagine the upper control arm hitting the shock tower sounds like (again, this was just over a dip in the road which I drive over everyday). Nothing that I've ever heard in my 25 years of driving... I cringed when it happened. As you can see, my entire suspension is practically brand new, and the drop is rather mild. Again, I think the preload is properly set (coils are tight, but I can twist them with some effort). I'm going to set the dampening at 12 in the front and 13 in the rear and see if that helps. Like you said though, "You should not be bottoming out and hitting suspension components even at the lowest/softest damper setting". I know that there's other Flex-Z owners out there... has anyone else experienced this?

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-17-2017, 10:17 PM
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Its your camber adjustable SPC ball joints. Take a look at the top of your strut tower(under the hood), and if it has hit enough times you'll see a dimple appear on each side. The ball joint type of camber kits on our cars are designed very poorly and make contact with the strut tower because the top stud is too tall. My guess is they were designed through R&D with only stock height applications. CL, TL, and Accord owners have this issue as well because suspension geometry and components are very similar across the models.

I tried the Ingalls camber ball joints(same design as the SPC's) and would get an extremely loud BANG noise while going over moderate size bumps. I ended up going with the skunk2 camber adjustable upper control arms because the Hardrace ones were on back order at the time, no more contact for me now.

Why do you need a front camber kit on your car? The front end of our cars suffer from very little negative camber when lowered, unlike the rears. Generally a moderate drop will still keep you right above the factory -.8 degrees of camber.

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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I installed the SPC ball joint camber kits because I'm a perfectionist with my alignments, and they don't slip. I have camber set at -.7 each side in the front. Why did this never happen with my Eibach/Koni setup? Did going 1/4" lower really make the difference? I guess I have two options... 1) reinstall eibach/koni's OR 2) get skunk2 upper control arms which provide more clearance. Why is nothing with cars ever straight forward????

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 07:54 PM
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Did you have the SPC's with your Koni set up too? From what I gathered in your first post you put the new SPC's in with the new Tein coilovers. The Teins have a shorter body but compensate with close to 4x the spring rate of your old eibach springs(just a guess since eibach doesn't release spring rates for the pro or sport line kits). That could theoretically be the cause.


Lol welcome to life of modifying cars man. Anything that can go wrong will.

A big reason is mis match parts from different companies, that's why a lot of people love Dinan, HPD, TRD, etc. Everything is designed as a package and works well together.


Just be aware the skunk2 arms aren't without their own issues. Mainly slipping balljoints(easily remedied with new grade 8 bolts and star lock washers) and shitty control arm bushings. Mine already have some give to them after 15k DD miles and 3 track days. Reason why I recommend hardrace arms instead.

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 12:22 PM
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That's the biggest factor in my opinion. The shorter body is decreasing your suspension travel even if your drop isn't drastically different than before. If you jack up your car, I'm sure the Tein's aren't allowing your suspension to travel down much like a shock/spring setup would. When it gets tight, things might start touching.
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