RPF1 18x9 +35 fitment question, please help - Acura TSX Forum
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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-17-2016, 11:50 AM Thread Starter
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RPF1 18x9 +35 fitment question, please help

hi i recently bought some Enkei RPF1 18x9 +35 offset is on the way, but im aware i will have trouble fitting it on, i dont want to roll my fender and i dont have adjustable camber arm, will that still fit without rubbing? will 18x8.5 +40 be a better option? But i like the 9" flat concave look.
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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-17-2016, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
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Anyone?
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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-18-2016, 01:02 AM
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It depends on what size tire you run also, regardless you're still going to need to roll your fenders with a 18x9 +35.

The other option you mentioned would fit a lot better.
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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-18-2016, 03:07 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by goforbroke View Post
It depends on what size tire you run also, regardless you're still going to need to roll your fenders with a 18x9 +35.

The other option you mentioned would fit a lot better.
I think I'm gona run 225/40/18 is rolled fender going to be fine to fit the wheels? I saw some post mentioned pulled fender what is pulled fender? Is just just make the fender wider by putting pressure to it? Thx
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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-19-2016, 07:24 AM
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Let me google that for you

Post your final set up when you choose the tires and comment on the ride quality please. I'm on the fence as to whether or not I want 17's or 18's when I get the same wheels next year. I like the look of 18's but I don't want to sacrifice ride quality with the lower profile tire.
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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-19-2016, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Poletrain View Post
Let me google that for you

Post your final set up when you choose the tires and comment on the ride quality please. I'm on the fence as to whether or not I want 17's or 18's when I get the same wheels next year. I like the look of 18's but I don't want to sacrifice ride quality with the lower profile tire.
Okay I'll post some picture when it's done, but now I'm not sure if I'm gona need rear camber or not, can someone help
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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-20-2016, 07:34 AM
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Did you search through the forum to see if that had been asked already?

There's a sticky post on the wheel subforum: The Thread To End All "WILL THESE RIMS/TIRES FIT" Questions

You also never mentioned if you are lowered or not or planning to if you aren't now. If you're already lowered and don't have a camber kit, buy a set anyway, for the rear at least, to save your tires and control camber with adjusting ride height. That link above has a great tool to show you what everything will look like and a post has a link to a stance thread where people are posting their setups which you could benefit from. Looks like a guy with the setup you're aiming for has -1deg all around, but it also looks like he's lowered and probably could have gotten away without camber at stock height because -1deg isn't too much.
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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-20-2016, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Poletrain View Post
Did you search through the forum to see if that had been asked already?

There's a sticky post on the wheel subforum: The Thread To End All "WILL THESE RIMS/TIRES FIT" Questions

You also never mentioned if you are lowered or not or planning to if you aren't now. If you're already lowered and don't have a camber kit, buy a set anyway, for the rear at least, to save your tires and control camber with adjusting ride height. That link above has a great tool to show you what everything will look like and a post has a link to a stance thread where people are posting their setups which you could benefit from. Looks like a guy with the setup you're aiming for has -1deg all around, but it also looks like he's lowered and probably could have gotten away without camber at stock height because -1deg isn't too much.
Thanks so much for your help, it means a lot to me, does stock camber arms can run -1 degree camber? Because I want to save some money for buying whole set of four cambers arms, and my car is already lowered on coilover. Also I'm little confus on the suspension arms hope you can help me out, so front upper arms = front camber arms, rear upper arms = rear camber arms, so what is front lower arms and rear lower arms? Or toe arms? What does it do?
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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-21-2016, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Nick4183 View Post
Thanks so much for your help, it means a lot to me, does stock camber arms can run -1 degree camber?
It depends on how lowered you are. Stock suspension is gonna 0 or really close to it and will get more negative the lower the suspension gets.


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Because I want to save some money for buying whole set of four cambers arms, and my car is already lowered on coilover. Also I'm little confus on the suspension arms hope you can help me out, so front upper arms = front camber arms, rear upper arms = rear camber arms, so what is front lower arms and rear lower arms? Or toe arms? What does it do?

Rear upper control arms are where the camber arms would go, and same for the front. You probably won't see much camber when lowered and those are your drive and brake wheels and you really don't want to put a lot of camber on those wheels anyway for traction purposes. I've never used them or know anything about them, but I know camber plates are an option for the front and they replace the top hats of the front struts I believe, and you can adjust camber from inside the engine bay. The lower arms are just another way of connecting the suspension to the frame, specifically the bottom mounting point of the strut. Toe arms are tie rods, that's how you steer and they are adjustable to set the toe on the front wheels. Just google how a car suspension works or car suspension diagrams and look through pictures and click all the links until they're purple.

Since you're already lowered and already have some natural camber from being lowered, you're probably fine to get your wheels and tires now, worst case you rub a little and take the wheels off and put whatever you had back on while you wait for the camber kits. Look through those other links and decide what tire size you like best. Mount and balance your new wheels and tires and put them on the car, 8.5" shouldn't cause too many issues and I suspect the only thing you'll have to do is roll the fenders. I know you said you didn't want to, but you're probably gonna have to roll at that width. They aren't too expensive online, you can also go to an advanced autoparts if you live in the states and see if you can rent one. They have a lot of tools that you can rent for $50 and you get the money back when you return it. Once you get your camber kits and get everything together, go get a professional alignment and tell them how to adjust the camber arms and what you want them set to.
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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-21-2016, 02:14 PM
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You will be fine, front fender tabs will need to be folded in and roll rear fenders. The rear is more so if you correct the negative camber from lowering it. I rolled my rear fenders with my 18x9.5 +40(235/40/18) which is the same as 18x9 +35. You will have more clearance due to the slimmer tire. I had the rear set to -1.5 camber(Ingalls kit) front -1.2 natural from lowering(no camber kit). Depends how low you go in the rear, you will clear it due to the negative camber.

Here is mine(few years ago) with 18x9.5 +40 235 40 18 tires. -1.5 rear and -1.2 front.

Edit: Heres a thread with your soon to be setup New Shoes! RPF1's!


08 ABP 6MT

Last edited by BluLabelCL9; 09-21-2016 at 02:19 PM.
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post #11 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-21-2016, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your information, I like now I just need to wait until the wheels arrived and put them on and see how it goes. Thanks
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post #12 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-21-2016, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BluLabelCL9 View Post
You will be fine, front fender tabs will need to be folded in and roll rear fenders. The rear is more so if you correct the negative camber from lowering it. I rolled my rear fenders with my 18x9.5 +40(235/40/18) which is the same as 18x9 +35. You will have more clearance due to the slimmer tire. I had the rear set to -1.5 camber(Ingalls kit) front -1.2 natural from lowering(no camber kit). Depends how low you go in the rear, you will clear it due to the negative camber.

Here is mine(few years ago) with 18x9.5 +40 235 40 18 tires. -1.5 rear and -1.2 front.

Edit: Heres a thread with your soon to be setup New Shoes! RPF1's!

Car looking very nice, did you rub with this set up?
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post #13 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-26-2016, 01:07 AM Thread Starter
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I just put the rims on, front is sticking out way too much and it likes not so good, rear is fine, can anyone tell me what can I do to make the front go back in a bit?
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post #14 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-26-2016, 05:39 AM Thread Starter
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I have natural camber on the front (not sure how many as I haven't do wheel alignment yet) but it stick out like 1cm can I put camber arms on tuck the wheels in a bit? Rear is sticking out 3-4mm natural camber from lower the car too, what can I do to make the wheels fit perfectly flush on guard? Thanks
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post #15 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-26-2016, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Nick4183 View Post
I have natural camber on the front (not sure how many as I haven't do wheel alignment yet) but it stick out like 1cm can I put camber arms on tuck the wheels in a bit? Rear is sticking out 3-4mm natural camber from lower the car too, what can I do to make the wheels fit perfectly flush on guard? Thanks
Camber is your only option at that point. When you test fit these, was the car jacked up the whole time? or did you put it back down on the ground? If you left it in the air, the wheel wouldn't have looked exactly the same because there wasn't any weight on it which would take away wheel gap and add a little more camber than what you may have saw.
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