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View Full Version : Popping Noise in Trunk area


gman_in_NC
06-06-2005, 10:55 PM
GOOD NEWS, my problem has been repaired by the dealer in two days. It was considered a major body flex/stress noise. They removed the same things I did and more and repaired and rewelded strut towers, back deck and there was mention of cleaning off welds and sheet metal where painted together. All in all from what I was told 6 hours of difficult diagnosis and labor. Drove the car for the first time today without any popping noise coming from the rear. Also found this same problem listed on another forum and sounds like this is appearing across many models of Honda and Acura.
If you have the same problem, hit me with an email and I will give you the details on the repair order.


New owner with a weird problem. I have a popping noise in the rear of the vehicle back dash or trunk area. Sounds like a big drop of rain hit the trunk lid or a wire harness slapping the side of the fender. I have removed the rear seat, all the carpeting in the trunk the plastic wheel well covers, checked the trunk adjustment, removed the spare tire, checked the strut mounts you name it and still have the noise. Temperature makes no difference and it only does it a low speeds. Headed to the dealer next. My fear is that I have a poorly welded chassis or trunk brace and I am hearing stress in the vehicle which means it can not be repaired. Has anyone experienced this problem ?

APOGEE
06-06-2005, 11:07 PM
New owner with a weird problem. I have a popping noise in the rear of the vehicle back dash or trunk area. Sounds like a big drop of rain hit the trunk lid or a wire harness slapping the side of the fender. I have removed the rear seat, all the carpeting in the trunk the plastic wheel well covers, checked the trunk adjustment, removed the spare tire, checked the strut mounts you name it and still have the noise. Temperature makes no difference and it only does it a low speeds. Headed to the dealer next. My fear is that I have a poorly welded chassis or trunk brace and I am hearing stress in the vehicle which means it can not be repaired. Has anyone experienced this problem ?
Psydoc had a similar problem I think and it was a bad weld. I believe it was fixed under warranty and it is quiet now. Anyone else have any input on this mystery? :donno:

lucky8
06-19-2005, 02:39 AM
I have the same problem, when going at low speeds and pulling into a drivway or over speed bump the whole trunk area seems to have this loud creaking noise. I have about 500 more miles before my first servicing. I think i will have them look at it.

aerozeta
06-19-2005, 01:39 PM
i hear the same thing, after i installed the cargo net anchors.....i guess the noise must have came through the lining inside the trunk.....

gman_in_NC
06-22-2005, 11:11 PM
Lucky8, better have them go over it. Mine was getting worse each day, lounder and more prevelant. I had to insist that it was a chasis problem and would not leave the dealer until a mechanic took it for a Road test. Believe it or not it was really acting up that day and he almost immediately told me I was correct with my diagnosis.

jamesveale
07-04-2005, 12:22 AM
I am hearing the same noise in my 05' TSX can you detail the repair order so I can communictae this to my dealer. Thanks!

aaron33
07-04-2005, 04:48 AM
Hi! I'm new to this forums and I had this same problem. I'm located in Australia and I found the fix from another TSX site, and when I went to my dealer, they basically did the same fix.

There is a weld point in the rear parcel shelf. It's slightly to the left of where the left boot hinge goes in. If you look at the gap of the boot liner into the sheet metal area, you'll see a spot weld that is half on the top sheet and it holds the top to the bottom sheet. If you look at the same area on the right side, you'll see that the weld is fully on the top sheet, holding it to the bottom sheet.

With mine, they opened up the metal slightly (equivalent of massaging the metal to remove the stresses from the flex), and filled the gap with grease. I think it would be better if you filled the gap with epoxy, as that would help with rigidity (as the original spot weld was not "spot on" as to say).