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Comfort Sport Build

152K views 570 replies 40 participants last post by  sonyfever 
#1 · (Edited)
Have owned my 04 for a long time, but besides a-spec suspension I never did any mod until 2013. I figure I am keeping the car for a few more years, so why not bring it "up-to-spec" to enjoy it more. I do plan to autox/track in the future, but at the same time this is a daily for hauling family so I need to balance comfort and sportiness. Hence, I term my build "Comport sport."

Most mods are popular/well-proven and already reviewed by many. But during my researches, I often found myself wishing for more details. Besides, for some of the parts, I did find things that were not mentioned in other reviews. I thought maybe it's worthwhile to add my own opinions for others to reference. Hopefully, this thread helps people in their decision making.

The mods I have/had are the following. Some of them are without reviews, e.g. camber kit and RSB, since they are what they are...

Engine & Dyno
  • Phase 1: CT-E Icebox + CT-E header + 06 cat + reflash
    • [Link] Dyno chart (with stock lid/filter)
    • [Link] Hondata reflash
    • [Link] DIY intake mod - remove xbar in stock lid
    • [Link] CT-E Icebox
    • [Link] CT-E header & 06 cat
  • Phase 2: RSP intake + J35 TB + 45 VTC + 06 intake cam + FlashPro
    • [Link] Dyno chart
    • [Link] 04-05 FlashPro Adapter Installation Tips
    • [Link] Mini-review #1
    • [Link] Mini-review #2
  • Phase 2.1: Revert to 64mm RBB IM + Fastline High-flow cat
  • Phase 3.0: ASP ceramic-coated header
    - [Link] Dyno Chart
  • Phase 3.1: PRC pulley
    - [Link] Review

Suspension
  • [Link] Lighter-weight wheels
  • Ingall rear camber kit (no review since it is what it is)
  • Progressive RSB (reduces lean, enhances stability out of corner, and has little impact on ride quality/noise)
  • [Link] Suspension 1.0: A-spec suspension
  • Suspension 2.x
    • [Link] v2.0: Tein CST (F/R: 7/4 kg/mm)
    • [Link] v2.1: Tein CST (F/R: 8/4 kg/mm)
    • [Link] v2.2: EDFC-II
  • Suspension 3.x
    • [Link] Preface
    • [Link] v3.0: FlexZ Initial Impression
    • [Link] v3.0: FlexZ Notes
    • [Link] v3.1: CST Reborn (F/R: 8/5 kg/mm with revalve)
    • [Link] v3.1: The Road to Customization
    • [Link] v3.2: Alutec strut bar
  • Suspension 4.x
    • [Link] v4.0: Skunk2 front camber kit + new oem LCA/suspension bushings
    • [Link] v4.1: Spoon rigid collars, front & rear

Brakes
  • v1.0: [Link] RacingBrake 300mm slot rotor + ET300 -> ET500 + Stainless-steel brake line
  • v2.0: Racingbrake 4-pot caliper w/ ET500
    • [Link] Break-in Review
    • [Link] Review with 300ZX shims
    • [Link] Centric Posi-Quiet semi-metallic front pads
  • v3.0: XLR8 328x28 one-piece BBK by Stoptech
    • [Link] First Impression
    • [Link] Installation System Check
    • [Link] Initial Review
    • [Link] 1-2 month review
    • [Link] Model 3 test drive, and XLR8 BBK longer-term review

Tires
  • [Link] Pirelli P Zero All Season Plus 225/45R17 - 7k-mile Review
  • [Link] Hankook Ventus V12 Evo2 215/50R17, 10k-mile Review
  • [Link] Michelin Pilot Sport A/S3+ 225/45R17 Conclusion

Look
  • [Link] Fastline performance cf spoiler
  • [Link] JDP carbon fiber lip
  • [Link] Customized Steering Wheel - Part 1
  • [Link] Customized Steering Wheel - Part 2
  • [Link] Depo oem-style headlight + Morimoto LED foglight
  • [Link] Eibach 10mm Wheel Spacers

Maintenance
  • [Link] Fix intermittent no-code airbag light issue by replacing SRS control unit
  • [Link] 2018-19 Restoration Preview, Step 1.1: Mounts/Starter. Bonus: Track mode on Model 3
  • [Link] 2018 Resto1.1: Engine/transmission Mounts
  • [Link] 2018 Resto1.2: OZ Racing Hyper GT, 17x7.5 ET45
  • [Link] 2018 Resto1.3: Hybrid 04/06 Stock Exhaust
  • [Link] 2018 Resto 1.4: New OEM Axles, Eibach 10mm Spacers, and from Heaven to Debug Hell
  • [Link] 2018 Resto 1.4.1: New Driver-side Ball Joints
  • [Link] 2018 Resto 1.4.2: Road-force Balance
  • [Link] 2018 Resto1.5: AAE Power Steering Rack + 555 Outer Tie Rods + Moog Sway Bar Bushings

Random Notes
  • [Link] 2014/03: One Year Down The Road
  • [Link] 2014/04: No to Aftermarket Body Parts
  • [Link] 2014/06: What's Next After phase2.1
  • [Link] 2014/07: Beyond TSX
  • [Link] Engine Tuning Impressions*
  • [Link] TSX vs Modern-day Sports Sedan
 
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#2 ·
Still experimenting with Tein CST...

The reference data in the manual are for CL7 with 18" wheel. I feel the extra weight of CL9 does make the recommended setting not so ideal (on 17" stock wheel).

Weight (F-R)
CL7: 860kg - 530kg
CL9: 879kg - 586kg

Spring seat height
CL7: 198mm - 307mm (wheel gaps are 13.97" and 13.58"; or 1.57" - 1.18" drop)
Obviously on CL9, the recommended setting will have a lower drop due to the extra weight. The shop set my wheel gap to roughly 13.5" front and rear. I don't like the setting because I feel the front carries too much weight. A-spec and Tein JP's settings both have ~0.5" difference between front and rear so it looks like it's the "golden" setting that I will try out.

Damper clicks
0 is hardest; 16 is softest
CL7: 8 - 10
Mine: 9 - 12/13. The ride height is putting too much weight on the front so I haven't found a setting that convinced me. But this setting feels ok, quite comfy at the rear but with enough feedback up front.
 
#6 ·
The car looks practically stock except for flp spoiler! I think I have better pics on parts than on the car. But yeah I will add more pics along the way...
 
#4 ·
The mods I put effectively GT-nized TSX compared with stock. Rundown:
  • A-spec suspension
  • Ingall rear camber kit
  • Hondata reflash
  • DIY intake mod - remove xbar in stock lid.
  • CT-E Icebox
  • CT-E header
  • Tein CST
  • Progressive RSB
Great list of mods! I have CST (added EDFC) with Progress RSB and Ingalls Rear Camber for my suspension mods as well. My power adders are similar to yours too. I'm running Comptech I/H/E along with the reflash.

I'm happy with the way my TSX is now and am not really looking for any more mods. You've gone down a good route for a sporty yet comfortable sedan. I still smile every time I drive my TSX!
 
#5 ·
Thanks yeah the mods are effective and street friendly. I am very happy with the engine mods they greatly increases partial-throttle torque, but still unsure about the coilover. Still need to tune the ride height and install RSB. Care to share your CST settings?

I might add EDFC later on but no further either... I think it makes better sense to get a new car since anything further costs lots more $$$
 
#9 ·
I finally found a setting for Tein CST that I am happy with.
Keep in mind the numbers mentioned are not all precise, better treat them as rough numbers.
My reference is a-spec by the way.

Ride Heights
I am happy with the rear end so mainly tried three settings for the front:

R - 13.5"
F -
13.5": Too much weight in the front, this adds front-end bites but when exceeds grip limit switches to under-steer sooner. The front doesn't feel as crisp as a-spec even though the grip level is higher, but the major deal breaker for me is the lost of rear-end feedback.
At this ride height, I measured from the lowest point of the thread to the bottom of the lower perch (let me call this perch height) and it's 35mm.

14": This is more like OE F-R difference. I immediately like the better front-rear balance and the crisper/stiffer front (because the spring preload increased). Unfortunately I soon find out that the preload is too much to the point that I can tell the damping is not enough to control the spring. Need to up the front damping to 9 to catch the spring but then the combination is just too stiff. At this point, I know I only need to lower the spring a bit to lessen the preload.
Perch height is 42mm.

--Updated from 13.9" to 13.8"--
13.8": Point two inch doesn't sound much but it made a big difference! I like a-spec front end so use it as reference. With damping set to 10 the front is close to a-spec crisp but a few notches smoother. I suppose by upping the damping it will be really close to a-spec. The 0.1" difference also somehow makes the F-R balance better than 14", but I need to corner the car harder to really say for sure :)
Perch height is 4mm.


Damping
0 is hardest; 16 is softest
F-R: 10 - 13

The recommended 8-10 setting was too hard for where I live when paired with 13.5" - 13.5" ride heights.
I get CST to have softer rear for comfort, so run it at the softest setting I can live with. I have tried 10~13 and think 11~13 are all pretty decent setting to have both comfort and handling.
The front I should experiment a bit with the new-found front ride height, but 9-11 are decent compromises.
One thing worth mentioning is that I feel the damping change per click is more significant at the front than the rear. Or maybe it's because I sit in the front..

I will write a complete review and post some pics after I install the RSB.
 
#10 ·
Review of bolt-on engine mods

Car: 04 AT
(MT might behave differently compared with the review)

Installed the parts in the following order:
Hondata reflash -> Icebox -> CT-E Header+06 cat

1. Hondata Reflash


Pros: Excellent value due to all-round improvement.
Cons: This is Pandora's box; once you get this you will want more...

Got this because I wanted more power and the best bang for the buck seemed to be a reflash. And indeed is a great value. The throttle is more responsive. Power increases throughout the range. I would say 1k-3k not much power gain just more responsive. But there is now a real power band starting from 3.5k to redline. The VTEC kick is felt less but you still know it is there by the surge of power and the roaring. The earlier VTEC window comes very handy when needed. Fuel economy wise I observe no difference if driven normally.
 
#11 ·
2. Intake mods

Tried two intake mods. One is stock lid with crossbar removed; the other is CT-E Icebox.

2.1 Stock lid without xbar

Pros: Noticeably reduce 2-1 downshift engine braking on AT; Easy DIY
Cons: None

Removing the xbar improved throttle response marginally but not much. The biggest difference for me was the less abrupt 2-1 downshift. I am not sure if this is common or not; my AT when coming to a stop the downshifting from 2-1 created a spike in engine braking. Once I removed the bar, I felt it was easier to modulate the brake when slowly bringing the car to a stop.

2.2 CT-E Icebox

Pros: Better drivability; Rpm picks up faster above 3.5k; Noise only at higher rpm
Cons: Power gain need to be felt by stomping the throttle

The velocity stack makes the engine pulls smoother and faster, especially above 4k. The lid + filter improves throttle response as well as shifting the resonant frequency to around 2.5k from 2k with stock lid. Noise-wise, Icebox is stock-like below 4k. Above 4k the engine starts to roar deeper and clearer than stock, and I like the sound a lot!

Power-wise, I feel the gain isn't that obvious. Maybe because I haven't combine the lid and velocity stack together, my butt dyno would say the gain is more like 5% than the 10% shown on dyno. The gain is there, but mostly felt at VTEC window.

A few things I noticed that are not mentioned in the reviews I read are:
- The off-throttle engine braking is not as strong as before.
- Braking feels more linear and easier to modulate.

Combined with the improved throttle response, the drivability of the car is much better. I couldn't think back how I managed to live with the stock settings for so many years.....

UPDATE 12/03/2014
The major issue with Icebox is fitment. Mine is used and unfortunately the fitment is not good, more often than not, I can see small dust in the lid after a while. I also don't like oil filter as they gets messy easily. For me, the fitment issue is a deal breaker so I am switching back to stock lid without x bar.
 
#22 ·
2. Intake mods

Tried two intake mods. One is stock lid with crossbar removed; the other is CT-E Icebox.

2.1 Stock lid without xbar

Pros: Noticeably reduce 2-1 downshift engine braking on AT; Easy DIY
Cons: None

Removing the xbar improved throttle response marginally but not much. The biggest difference for me was the less abrupt 2-1 downshift. I am not sure if this is common or not; my AT when coming to a stop the downshifting from 2-1 created a spike in engine braking. Once I removed the bar, I felt it was easier to modulate the brake when slowly bringing the car to a stop.

2.2 CT-E Icebox

Pros: Better drivability; Rpm picks up faster above 3.5k; Noise only at higher rpm
Cons: Power gain need to be felt by stomping the throttle

I have yet to install the lid and velocity stack together, but I am sure if I can feel the difference individually then together they will improve the engine response even more. I ran the lid with OEM filter and can say the lid mainly improves throttle response under 3k; the velocity stack makes the engine pulls smoother and faster, especially above 4k.

Noise-wise, Icebox is stock-like below 4k. Above 4k the engine starts to roar deeper and clearer than stock, and I like the sound a lot!

Power-wise, I feel the gain isn't that obvious. Maybe because I haven't combine the lid and velocity stack together, my butt dyno would say the gain is more like 5% than the 10% shown on dyno. The gain is there, but mostly felt at VTEC window.

A few things I noticed that are not mentioned in the reviews I read are:
- The off-throttle engine braking is not as strong as before.
- Braking feels more linear and easier to modulate.

Combined with the improved throttle response, the drivability of the car is much much better. I couldn't think back how I managed to live with the stock settings for so many years.....
I finally installed the Icebox lid with the Icebox foam filter so can add a few comments.

First of all, I think 2k-2.5k stock lid (without xbar) feels stronger but 2.5k-3k Icebox is more robust. Not big difference just something to note. Acceleration in gear feels more responsive but this could be throttle response not absolute speed. In terms of noise, Icebox lid is louder especially at WOT.

I am still not 100% convinced about the filtering capability of foam filter and tightness of Icebox lid. I am going to run the combo for a week then check to see if there is any trace of dust inside the lid.
 
#13 ·
Yeah I know! Just haven't had opportunity to take nice pictures of the car. Besides, a package is is coming that will make the car less stock-like ;)
 
#14 ·
Comfort Sport (aka Family-friendly) Build

3. CT-E header + 06 cat (with Hondata & Icebox horn)







Pros: Surprisingly effective mod. The engine feels much more lively and torquey. Power more readily available.

Cons: Sacrifice on noise & vibration, especially the later. On AT, there can be rattle but in my case the rattle wasn't consistent. Also, after raising the ride height the rattle was gone.



The pros and cons above say it all. I was surprised by the new-found torque at partial-throttle; my butt dyno says the gain is more than 20%. Before someone jumps in and point me to the 10% gain on dyno, remember I said partial-throttle not full throttle as in dyno. I think what happen is the air flows better so air velocity can reach optimal range faster. In other words, the max power might be +10% only but the engine can now reach max power with less throttle input. The downside of this is, at partial throttle you feel like the engine has more to give, but when you gun for it there are actually not a lot left.



After installing the header I found myself VTEC less, (yes the torque increase is that good!), and for those times I access VTEC, the power gain is still obvious but just not as significant as low-to-mid range.
 
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#15 ·
Comfort Sport (aka Family-friendly) Build

-
 
#17 ·
Header increases power throughout the range compared with stock. Just that my butt dyno feels the mid-range gain is more than the top end.

Thanks. The spoiler I know it's not for everyone, but I like the cf look. I didn't like it at first but after having the wheels the look had grown on me.
 
#18 ·
4. Fastline performance spoiler

Pros: Looks good to me; painted one looks like OEM.
Cons: Little performance gain :p

This is the easiest to review, because there is zero butt dyno involved!

I always like TSX with lip spoiler. The spoiler that I like most is EDM one, but it is too expensive and hard to get. So FLP spoiler is the second best choice. The build quality justifies the price well. The CF is beautifully woven for the most part; for my unit only a small spot on the bottom edge the weave is less smooth. Initially, I ran the raw cf look because painting it cost extra and brings zero gains. But the look grew on me especially after I put on the wheels. Some suggested FLP spoiler looks too large compared with EDM one. Yes in certain angles FLP looks thick, but mostly looks fine.

In terms of differences, lip spoiler is supposedly mainly for look but I can say above 60mph it made a small difference. The rear end seems slightly more stable and the wind noise coming from the rear is less. I have installed the spoiler twice and on/off on the same day so I was pretty sure what I felt was real. Just don't expect your car gain +10mph top speed or shave 0.5s off your 0-60 and you will be happy with the look!
 
#19 ·
5. Lighter wheels

The wheels I got are only ~5 lbs lighter than oem but it is enough to make a difference. Acceleration feels more responsive and braking also feels more effortless. Besides, the look turned out great. But the biggest difference is the increased stability by the wider track (ET45). There really is no downside for lighter wheels and I think will be a mod that I will do to my future cars. BTW, I stick with oem spec 215/50-17 because it's a family-friendly build.
 
#21 ·
Very nice mods and reviews from a different perspective (family build).
I've built mine with the same idea as a family sedan.
 
#23 ·
^^ I did the same thing weekly for a while, fearing that I didn't oil the foam filter as well as I should have when I recharged it. There wasn't a speck of dust on the inside of the CT lid, but I'd imagine that if dust did get through, it'd go directly into the engine anyways and not stick to the lid. My guess though.

and interesting view on the stock lid vs CT lid.
 
#24 ·
Major setback - just when I was about to order JDP spoiler I had an accident. Someone did double-lane U turn, which stopped the car in front of me while in a turn. Unfortunately, I was rushing home so when turning I didn't move my head far enough to avoid the A-pillar blind spot. Guess what I found when my car pointed straight..... Luckily it was low-speed and no one got hurt at all.

Of course insurance blamed me for not keeping enough distance. The car is still driveable and no leaks whatsoever but the left front is pretty messed up. Doesn't feel like a total to me but I am guessing in the 3k+ range since the radiator cage, hood and fender all need replacing. Insurance will tell me the number end of this week.

What do you think?


 
#26 ·
Initial estimation came in at 5k. Body shop will do a more precise estimation; pretty sure it will be even more. Glad I have insurance to cover most of the costs...

Actually, I am a little surprised the claim agent did not suggest totaling the car. The estimation is close to 75% of the car's market value. Maybe the estimation is book value and insurance pay discount price to the body shop? To be honest, if TLX turbo were available, I might consider jumping ship....
 
#28 ·
Thank you! For a split second, I felt empty when I opened the garage door but didn't see my car today, haha.

The accident definitely taught me to take less for granted on public road.
 
#29 ·
6. Suspension mod

Long story short, I had A-spec for about four years without RSB, then switched to Tein CST and added RSB later.

6.1 A-spec coilover

Pros: Incredible value. Crisp and consistent feedback, smooth transition = easy to control, greatly reduces roll compared with stock, minimal impact on ride quality.
Cons: A little stiff in the first 10k miles; Ride quality deteriorates when car is loaded

If the suspension mod taught me anything, it would be factory tune is hard to beat. I remember the first 10k my A-spec was pretty stiff, but it settled down afterwards. And I think after settling down, the suspension is awesome because the driving dynamic is highly consistent, transitions are smooth (easy to control) and the sweet spot is very large (good for most road conditions; good for street-AutoX)

Yes, I know A-spec isn't fancy at all. Not adjustable, looks like stock, drops only 1 inch, and may not be sporty enough for some. But it is so well rounded and the balance feels like..... oem quality. The transition of body movement is smooth and easily predictable, with crisp feedback throughout the whole rotation.

I like how A-spec feels sportier than stock; the drop lowers the center of gravity significantly and lean is much less compared with stock. Road comfort is mostly good, only abrupt changes or patch of irregularities make the additional stiffness obvious. But road comfort does deteriorate if the rear end is loaded. Still, I don't think you can find anything close at this price ($499) that is so well sorted and deals with most road conditions perfectly. The quality is so good that I have been trying to replicate the feedback with Tein CST...

The reason I needed to swap out A-spec for something else was because the rear got stiff when loaded. Before I never notice it because I rarely have passengers in the back; but things changed, so a fix is needed.....

By the way, I initially ran A-spec without camber kit and at -2 camber the rear just rotated on its own. But after tire rotation, I found straight-line stability became worse and I suspected it came from the uneven wear. So I added ingall camber kit and ran close to neutral camber; that was a mistake because the rear became reluctant to rotate.
 
#30 ·
While the car is being repaired, I have ordered JDP front spoiler. I know this is for look only, but the relatively bland stock front doesn't connect with the wheels so I eventually decide to fix it.

Besides this upcoming change, I also researched a bit about 50 VTC + 06 cam drop + FlashPro. I think the mid-range gain will be handy, but then realize the project will be in the range of 1.5k-2k. I feel for ~2k the gain on my setup (CT-E I/E) may not be worth it. Most of the dynos I found uses race header/test pipe, so on mine the gain will be much less....

Honestly, I am a little tired of modding because of the hassles and tradeoffs. Sometimes, I just want to drive a well-sorted car without having to spend resource on research/installation/tuning. So I am eagerly waiting to see what Acura's plan for TLX Type-S is and also the new C... I really think factory-tuned sporty version is better suited for me now. Having said that, after the accident, I kind of want to keep TSX forever. It is such a sweet car in terms of handling and feedback. It's relatively economical and super reliable. And the mods I put in so far does give the car characters....
 
#31 ·
Added image to header review.
 
#34 ·
Tein CST



Benchmarked against A-spec
Pros: Comfortable ride with mild damping settings. The feedback feels well damped and silky. At suggested damping setting, handling is A-spec like.
Cons: Very expensive. Front drop is greater than official numbers.

The review is a long read, be prepared!

As mentioned before, I needed to swap out A-spec because the rear is a little stiff when loaded. I considered several options, from Koni to Tein SA/SF/CST. Suspension reviews are by nature subjective and many of them don't have enough details about handling and ride quality. So I turned to Marcus from Heeltoeauto trying to figure out my best option. At one point, I was leaning towards Street Flex because of the individual ride height adjustability. But in the end, I decided to go with the safest option to get me the ride quality I was looking for - Tein CST. It's worth noting that Marcus suggested Koni might fit my need as well and was a lot cheaper. However, I felt choosing the right spring was another variable that I needed to sip through reviews to figure out. I also felt Tein was better built and plus could be rebuilt if needed. So I didn't go with Koni, but from what I read it works for many.

The following paragraphs updated in 2015

Now let's talk about the coilover itself. BIG WARNING if you are considering the coilovers! The part is tuned for CL7. Since the front of CL7 is lighter than CL9, the front drop turned out to be much lower than that shown on Tein USA's website. Originally, I was looking for drop close to A-spec, because I didn't want to scrape the underbody too often. On Tein USA website, the suggested ride height is similar to A-spec, but I have no idea how they get the numbers.

The manual comes with suggested settings, on CL7 the resulting drops are 14"/13.5" F/R. Theoretically on CL9, the difference in front drop should be 4~5mm due to the extra weight. What I found was that the rear was inline with CL7 but the front was way off. The manual said 198mm spring seat height -> 13.9" ride height, but in reality I had to go a lot more to even reach 13.5" (I forget the measurements, but remember something close to 300mm).

The problem with the ride height is, adjusting the height on CST affects preload<- WRONG! compression/rebound travel. I found raising every millimeter of spring seat height makes the ride bumpier so can't imagine how worse the front will be if I want to reach 14.5" front. In the end, I have to compromise and currently settle for ~13.8" front. But I am still scraping too often so might try upping it a little more...

Ride height woe aside, as every review of CST will tell you, the coilovers are beautifully constructed. It could very well be a hanging piece in the garage! But the quality of build comes at a price, literally. At 1.6k pre-tax, the coilover is outright expensive. Having no individually ride height adjustibility is an oversight from Tein. It is 16-way adjustable front/rear, and I find each step makes noticeable difference, though the gaps may not be linear. I like the fineness and feedback from mono-tube, it is as if the damping actions are played back in slow motion. There is a smooth, silky quality built into the damper feedback.

What about ride comfort and handling? Supposedly CST is good for comfort while not giving up (too much) on handling, right? Well, honestly it depends on what your benchmark is. It is comfortable in the sense that feedback always feels damped and smooth, even at the hardest setting. At lower clicks (e.g. 10/13 F/R), it is truly comfortable while having better handling than stock. But the problem is, my benchmark is A-spec not stock. I find to achieve A-spec level of handling, I need to at least use the suggested clicks (8/10) in the manual. Going higher than that is a game of whether you want to bias towards handling or ride quality. The ride quality doesn't degrade a lot when cranking up the dial, it's just that bumps are more and more apparent, but I would never use harsh to describe CST's feedback. So in a sense, it is the old game of compromise between handling and ride quality. You have to choose what you want. Well not unless you have EDFC, and I think that would be a killer together with CST. If I were younger, I would definitely get EDFC wanting to make TSX a perfect car. But now, I just accept what it is and bias my setting one click towards the comfort side. :) I also ended up getting RSB as well to cure the greater lean from running the rear softer. In comparison, I believe the rear damping for A-spec is tuned high to minimize the rear lean.

For suspension tuning, wheel and tire also play a part so it's worth mentioning the setup I have/had. The original one was OEM wheel + Michelin Primacy MXM, now I am running Sparco Assetto Gara and Hankook Ventus S1 noble 2.

So that takes me to where I am now:
  • Would I recommend CST?
    No, unless you are on a mission to improve ride quality and don't want to give up too much on handling. Like I was.
  • Would I buy CST again?
    Probably not, because it's too expensive for what it solves. I probably will get Tein Street Flex or Street Advance and pocket the rest of the money for other things. They might not be as comfortable as CST, but I find the damping adjustability to be of great use and I am pretty sure at lower damping Tein SA will clear the ride quality just fine.

So unfortunately, the most expensive mod on my car turned out to be a bit underwhelming. A big portion of it is because of the ride height woe that I mentioned earlier. And again I ultimately think Tein USA is wrong in selling a CL7 part that doesn't work as advertised on CL9.

That is also why I end up giving A-spec such high marks. It just works, as advertised.

* Shock dyno lifted from Tein's manual
 
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