Sound System Upgrade HELP (06 NAV) - Acura TSX Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-06-2016, 04:14 AM Thread Starter
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Sound System Upgrade HELP (06 NAV)

Ok let me first say I know this is a worn out topic and before anyone says anything let me be clear and mention I have searched and have alot of information already I'm just a bit overwhelmed and slightly confused. There seems to be lots of ways to do what I want to do.

Let me try asking by telling the forum exactly what I want my outcome to be and hopefully someone can led me on how to achieve my goals. Let's pretend money isn't an issue because I will save and take my time.

2006 TSX auto with nav

I want a full speaker upgrade (keeping all 8 active) and adding a sub and amp.
-Front Doors - alpine spr-60 6.5
-Rear Doors - alpine spr-60 6.5
-Rear Deck - alpine spr-60c
6.5, tweeter, crossover
-Front Tweeters - Rockford 1"
-Metra 72-7800 adapters for these to make the components plug n play
-Metra 82-6901 adapter plate to make the rear 6x9 into a 6.5+tweeter
-x scorpion hsa-6554 plates to install the 4 door components.

Now that should cover me on my incabin replacement speakers giving me a total so far of 4 tweeters and 6 speakers.
This brings me to question 1. Will the stock amp be fine with this or should it be bypassed or should it be upgraded? If upgraded should the upgrade be in addition with the factory amp or should it replace it all together. Whatever advice you have please be specific.

Ok so to continue on I want to also add a sub and amp to the trunk.
-1 12" Alpine type R 2 ohm
-NVX JAD1200.1 mono
Wired to 1 ohm with a bass knob
-possibly a 1.5 farad cap
-possibly a big 3 upgrade

This brings me to question 2. I've seen where people use the ms-8 others rewire the whole car, and some use a line out converter.
I was looking at an lc2i loc but my main question is can I keep my rear deck speaker setup and still use those wires to run a loc? If not can I run the rear deck speakers to the rear doors and then use the rear deck oem wires to run a loc?

So I want...
6 speakers, 4 tweeters, 1 sub, 1 amp...
Possibly an additional amp, and I want all my factory controls to work and I don't want to use an aftermarket hu.

Surely this is specific enough. Please help
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-07-2016, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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Nobody? Come on I know this is repeated but I've owned my car 2 weeks and am ready to really throw the cash...
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-07-2016, 04:56 PM
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Should be able to find out whatever you need to buy or ever want to know about your car through these guys

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-08-2016, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
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I've been all over it. Like I said I have alot of information just have some amp questions. And I've never used a loc before because I never kept factory radio or anything. I've read the factory amp is required to keep to have use of all factory controls. So to keep it but to add another amp for the upgraded door speakers seems a bit confusing. Idk how to wire it in. After the factory amp or before? Or do I run speakers to new amp but all other wires stay in the oem amp? I'm very capable of doing the labor just need some guidance from someone who knows
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-08-2016, 12:03 PM
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Have you called them ?

If you have not they will explain everything to you. And give you installation pics. It's possible to do. I did it using a stock civic si amp with steering wheel controls. It had a few issues so I changed the radio head and just added my own amps. Worked perfect and this could be a better option for you.

Like I said if you have not called them then you should call them. They are more then helpful and will do what ever they can to get you where you want to go with your car.

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-09-2016, 10:11 PM
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Before replacing my head unit I had an Lc6i controller running two amps, 4 6 inch speakers and two tweeters in the dash. I didn't need to add anything to continue using the factory controls in the steering wheel or on the deck. However when I replaced the factory head unit I did have to add a steering wheel control unit.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-10-2016, 12:16 AM Thread Starter
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Ok sounds gine. I'm gonna use the lc2i to run an amp and sub in the trunk and replace the door speakers and see how I like it. I might get away with not running a separate amp to the components.

When running the lc2i I know I have to tap into the speaker wires from the deck but does this mean I can't run speakers back there anymore or can I run speakers and the lc2i both on the same wires? I already have adapters to plug into the factory speaker harness to hook in new speakers so can I just cut that in half and run additional wires to the lc2i?
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-10-2016, 05:18 AM
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-15-2016, 10:00 AM
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I have an 08 TSX with the factory HU, an Audison Bit Ten, JL XD500/5 and Kenwood KAC-8105d. Audison Voce Components in the front stage and 10 inch JLw3.

I would be careful when trying to power aftermarket speakers off of the factory amplifier. There is a lot of equalization/dequalization that occurs in the factory amplifier, which is used to make the lesser quality factory speakers sound "better". When you place in a higher quality speaker the results are not what you expect. In my experience, I found that the aftermarket speaker lost much of the mid bass and the tweeters lacked in clarity. Definitely test this out before you go down the route of purchasing an AudioControl piece.

If you have room in your budget, I would suggest getting a DSP that will DeEQ the factory signal so that is flat before being equalized and sent to the amplifiers. You would be able to replace the Audio Control all together if you can find something with enough output channels. I love my Audison Bit ten, but this only have 5 channels of output. There are other options out there such as an MS8, Helix, Mosconi, etc.

I wold suggest you look over on Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum. Please search before asking questions, as a thread more than likely exists.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-10-2016, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by mino922 View Post
I would be careful when trying to power aftermarket speakers off of the factory amplifier. There is a lot of equalization/dequalization that occurs in the factory amplifier, which is used to make the lesser quality factory speakers sound "better". ...

If you have room in your budget, I would suggest getting a DSP that will DeEQ the factory signal so that is flat before being equalized and sent to the amplifiers. You would be able to replace the Audio Control all together if you can find something with enough output channels. I love my Audison Bit ten, but this only have 5 channels of output.
Question for you then. I was wondering about the utility or the need for a "DeEQ" line summer/processor, like maybe the AudioControl LCQ-1, if using the stock head unit with an aftermarket amp.

As you say, there is EQ crapola in the factory amp tailored to make the OEM speakers sound better. But if I have run the pre-amp signal from the stock head unit to a good aftermarket multi-channel amp - in my case, an 5-channel Alpine PDX-V9 - which has built-in high and low pass crossovers for the front/rear speakers and the subwoofer, is there still any advantage to adding a summing processor in the mix?

Is the pre-amp signal from the head unit not flat?
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-13-2016, 06:02 AM
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I've done a bit of audio mods and I would highly recommend getting a JBL MS8 set up before you change anything. If you build up a nice wiring harness, it can be a direct replacement for the OEM amp, which is 8ch. You don't necessarily have a speaker quality issue with the OEM stuff. They are efficient and designed for the power level they are working at. If that is loud enough for you and you want higher sound quality, this involves filtering, EQ, time delay compensation, etc. That's what the MS8 does, but it also has a power amp equivalent to the OEM TSX amp.

If you like the idea of changing speakers first, consider that most things you get will be rated for higher power and will be less efficient. That's means they will need more power to reach the same volume and are just capable of handling much more power to reach higher volume levels if given more power (via changing the amp).

The speaker placement is a challenge, with the doors facing each other and the tweeters pointed at the windshield. In my experience, switching to components first was a downgrade. Even using them with the crossovers and a new amp was problematic. It wasn't until I got the MS8 and was able to balance everything individually that the system sounded good, which is the reason I recommend doing that first. Then see what really needs to be changed to suit your preference.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-15-2016, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by feuss2 View Post
If you build up a nice wiring harness, it can be a direct replacement for the OEM amp, which is 8ch.
Feuss, can you explain what you mean by "build up a nice wiring harness"? Do I actually have to build one or can I buy one? I've got an MS8 on the way and will be installing it, possibly as soon as this weekend. Thanks
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-16-2016, 03:32 AM
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Feuss, can you explain what you mean by "build up a nice wiring harness"? Do I actually have to build one or can I buy one? I've got an MS8 on the way and will be installing it, possibly as soon as this weekend. Thanks
I bought someone's broken OEM amp to have the plugs. This is going back quite a ways - there might be some aftermarket stuff you can buy now that's easier than what I did.
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-30-2017, 12:07 PM
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For my subs (I have 2 12s), we spliced into the wires to the rear deck speakers. They provide remote and turn the amp off with the head unit.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-30-2017, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ETX_TSX View Post
For my subs (I have 2 12s), we spliced into the wires to the rear deck speakers. They provide remote and turn the amp off with the head unit.
If you're still retaining the factory amp, this is not the way to go. I'm assuming you mean you spliced the audio signal from the rear 6x9's but this hardly ever sounds that great. Reason being the factory amp has a funky EQ that sends a certain frequency range (ideal for the factory 6x9, but not subs). When I had my JL 8" sub/amp off the rear speakers it sounded terrible.

Ended up sending the front 2 channels from the HU into a line driver to boost the signal to my 4channel amp and my sub amp. Front channels are full range so it allowed me to tune like I wanted.

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