DIY: Suspension Install - Page 11 - Acura TSX Forum
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post #151 of 161 (permalink) Old 04-13-2014, 03:19 AM
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Great info
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post #152 of 161 (permalink) Old 09-18-2014, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
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Glad this is still helping you guys years later. Eventually I will be back in a first gen, but I am a car whore and always change things up lol.
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post #153 of 161 (permalink) Old 09-18-2014, 10:58 PM
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^^It definitely is helping. I did my first full suspension job two weeks ago with this as a pretty solid guide!

Holla at cho' koala.

"Roxie" - 2004 CL9 6MT - Satin Silver Metalllic
Mods planned in the wake of an unfortunate total:
-LED tail retro from MMSport
-H&R Sport Springs
-Bilstein B6 HD Shocks
-CT Engineering Icebox
-Hondata Reflash

Mods Thus Far:
-Alba Engineering Short Shifter
-CorSport Shifter Base Bushings
-Interior LEDs from exLED.com
-Kazera KZ-Vs 17x7 w/255/50/17 Continental ExtremeContact DWSs
-CT Engineering 22mm rear sway bar
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post #154 of 161 (permalink) Old 01-28-2015, 09:31 PM
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post #155 of 161 (permalink) Old 01-28-2015, 09:52 PM
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Thanks EuroRspec for making this thread, really appreciated.

Now having a question that is bugging me: On the above picture , the fork's 17mm bolt is being tighten when both front left and front right being lift up. At this moment if we put the wheel on, we can see how big the gap is, due to gravity.

I am curious that the lower control arm bushing will be making noise because it's being tighten at the wrong angle. May I assume that we should have tighten the 17mm bolt when the pivot bushing is at the correct angle. Like like lower control arm bushing and the fork's 17mm is being tighten when the "Gap" is like when the car is parked on a level ground. For example we use another jack to jack up the front right rotor. Or if we worried about damaging the rotor, we could put the spare tire on and jack up the spare tire wheel. Or I was thinking of another way, like dropping the front left and have the front sway bar to lift up the front right.

And then we tighten that.

Do we really need to do that?

therefore, I need EuroRspec's advice, thanks!
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post #156 of 161 (permalink) Old 01-28-2015, 10:54 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ebaypowerseller View Post
Thanks EuroRspec for making this thread, really appreciated.

Now having a question that is bugging me: On the above picture , the fork's 17mm bolt is being tighten when both front left and front right being lift up. At this moment if we put the wheel on, we can see how big the gap is, due to gravity.

I am curious that the lower control arm bushing will be making noise because it's being tighten at the wrong angle. May I assume that we should have tighten the 17mm bolt when the pivot bushing is at the correct angle. Like like lower control arm bushing and the fork's 17mm is being tighten when the "Gap" is like when the car is parked on a level ground. For example we use another jack to jack up the front right rotor. Or if we worried about damaging the rotor, we could put the spare tire on and jack up the spare tire wheel. Or I was thinking of another way, like dropping the front left and have the front sway bar to lift up the front right.

And then we tighten that.

Do we really need to do that?

therefore, I need EuroRspec's advice, thanks!
You need not worry about the angle of the suspension. It's bolt up and has no adjustment what so ever. One work of advice, You should not be tightening the bolt, but instead the nut on the other side. Just hold the bolt in place with a wrench and tighten the nut.
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post #157 of 161 (permalink) Old 01-29-2015, 12:47 AM
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I can't wait to put this guide to use this weekend. Thanks for the awesome info!
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post #158 of 161 (permalink) Old 04-07-2015, 09:24 AM
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Hello people, does anyone know if Tein coils of a ep3 k20, fit or serve in my Accord 2004 cl9, k24? By THE way, im thinking about buying coils D2 racing for my cl9 WHAT is Your opinion?
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post #159 of 161 (permalink) Old 04-25-2015, 03:04 PM
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How do you remove the through bolt on the bottom of the rear shocks? I removed the nut from one side, but the bolt goes through the rubber bushing on the shock and it is stuck in there. It doesn't just slide out, and trying to push it back through isn't working. I have not read anything about this being difficult. I've done multiple replacements and never had a problem like this.
Please help. Car needs to get finished tomorrow!
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post #160 of 161 (permalink) Old 04-25-2015, 05:39 PM
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I got it. It was seized inside the sleeve at the bottom of the shock. I had to use a ratcheting breaker bar on the head of the bolt and an open wrench to pry/slide the bolt out because it was not moving freely. Once out, I found that the threads were caked with white corrosion that has to be wire-brushed out.
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post #161 of 161 (permalink) Old 04-25-2015, 08:35 PM
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Anti seize every bolt that comes off those shocks. Trust the midwesterner on this. Any and all rust will bone you if you have to remove those shocks again. This includes the lower shock bolt itself, since the splined section between the threads seizes to the bushing over time.

Holla at cho' koala.

"Roxie" - 2004 CL9 6MT - Satin Silver Metalllic
Mods planned in the wake of an unfortunate total:
-LED tail retro from MMSport
-H&R Sport Springs
-Bilstein B6 HD Shocks
-CT Engineering Icebox
-Hondata Reflash

Mods Thus Far:
-Alba Engineering Short Shifter
-CorSport Shifter Base Bushings
-Interior LEDs from exLED.com
-Kazera KZ-Vs 17x7 w/255/50/17 Continental ExtremeContact DWSs
-CT Engineering 22mm rear sway bar
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