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Hi,
I got a 2006 TSX from my grandpa who’s had it for years. The TSX was passed down from my aunt who bought it new, to my grandpa, and now to me. It’s nearing 200k miles but my grandpa had some issues where the battery was draining, we believed to have fixed it. But then a “check emmisions system” light popped up. Is it because the battery has been disconnected for so long and the sensors need to reboot and all that? Or do I need to take it to have work done on it? My grandpa was pretty good on doing his maintenance (which explains how its still running at 199k miles…). The MPG thing fluctuates going from 18 mpg to 16 and back to 19.
 

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If the battery is seriously dead, that could cause DTCs to be set, some of which could trigger a CEL. In that case the CEL might reset on it's own, but that could take days or even weeks.

1. Get the battery tested at an autoparts store. Or charge it yourself and buy a DIY digital tester (they are cheap).

2. Buy or borrow a scantool, connect to OBDII port, and read the DTC codes yourself. You can also reset them with a scantool, which would be appropriate if you think any DTCs were caused by a low battery. That will clear the CEL.

If one or more DTC's come back, then repairs are needed.


Also... make sure the gas cap is on tight. A loose cap will set a DTC and CEL, which will eventually clear on it's own after the cap is on tight. That's pretty common
 

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That may be a legit problem. You can try resting the code and see if it comes back. If you do that, keep an eye on the coolant temp, if you have a bad T-Stat, don't want to over heat the motor.

The correct way to troubleshoot that is to use the official shop manual. It's VERY thorough, and VERY easy to use. Even if you don't do your own repairs, I think it's still worth owning because you can readily determine what's going on, and have an informed conversation with your shop. I'm not at home today but if I go by my house I'll grab mine and see if I can screenshot the page.

The various sensors may require detailed troubleshooting to narrow down, using the manual. But if the T-stat is bad you should observe one of several things...

1. Slow warm up. The coolant temp needle should reach it's normal position (slightly less than half-way mark) with five minutes of a cold start, assuming you're driving. It will take longer sitting idle, so I'd just drive it. If it never gets to the normal position, or takes more than a few minutes, then the T-stat is stuck open. That's bad for engine wear but should not destroy the engine immediately.

2. Overheat while driving. ANY needle movement above the normal position is bad, if you let it go to the point where the warning goes off, you might damage something immediately. Don't drive it if it gets above the normal position.

3. Needle moving below and/or above normal position after warmup. The "normal" position is not a specific temp, it just means that the coolant is within a certain range, typically about 85-105*C for most cars. Under normal driving after warmed up, it will probably stay within a few degrees of 90*C. ANY needle movement after warmup means something is wrong (unless maybe you're driving up the rocky mountains in severe summer heat). You can monitor coolant temp with most scan tools, try taking it for a drive in various conditions and see what it does. The only way I'd ever expect temps above 100*C would be on a hill in serious summer heat. If it's cool or cold out where you are, it should stay well below 100*C, and real close to 90*C.

If the T-Stat is misbehaving, get that replaced asap.
 

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I had this code last week on my 06 and it was the temperature sensor it's the one located being the engine block on the driver side you can find pics online. A bit of a pain to assess but nothing a 12 and 17 wrench couldn't handle. Also check your coolant make sure it looks right, i would bet replacing this will take care of that code.
 
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