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Hello all

I got some extra money and wanted to completely upgrade the current sound system in the acura. Maybe you guys could catch my mistakes before they happen. This will be my first install. I have some speakers from another system I will be re using, current equipment is as follows This has changed a lot but I will update list

front components: Polk Audio mm6502 components

rear door speakers: Polk DB6502 coaxial 6.5"

deck speakers: None/2 subs

subwoofer: JL Audio 10W3v3-4 (big upgrade to what I was planning)

Amplifier/dsp: JL audio VX1000i 5 channel amp

I know I dont need any rear speakers but since I already got them I'll use them for filler and turn them down lower. I'm not too worried about installing the subwoofer yet as it will be more of a modular system. I want to attach the mono amp to the sub box and be able to easily disconnect and remove the sub from my trunk. I'll have straps or a bracket to keep it in place when I'm driving. Not doing this anymore


So far being rained in as helped me solve two issues: discovering I have a water leak, and also finding here it's coming from. Heres pics of my dirty spare tire well. It leaked from the left side more. . . Having trouble getting pics to post normally, also the 5mbsize limit takes a little more work





Heres a clean wheel well!

 

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Using the stock receiver? If so I would recommend ditching the factory amp and installing a line driver and running RCAs from there to your amp. Most people use a LOC from the rear 6x9's to their sub amp but those speakers only receive a certain frequency range (to make up for the poor quality of the factory speaker) and will leave many low notes sounding muddy.

And honestly I would ditch the 6x9s. Even if you throw a full range signal at them via an aftermarket amp they won'd do much for you besides rattle the ever loving shit out of the rear deck.

What I did:

Factory receiver - spliced the front 2 channels on the factory amp INPUT harness to a rockford fosgate line driver. From there ran some RCAs to my rear JL 500/1 amp, and then RCAs from that amp to my JL 300/4 amp.

For speaker wires I wanted to run new wire to the doors but I ran short on time so I ran my speaker wires from the JL 300/4 up the center console and spliced them back into each channel of the factory amp OUTPUT harness.

My set up is Focal 165A1 SG comps front and rear powered by a JL slash 300/4 and a JL 12w6 powered by a JL slash 500/1.

Since my remote wire is powered via regular 12 volt power and not a remote turn on via an aftermarket head unit I also installed a delay turnon module for the amps to prevent power on pops which fried my previous JL 12w6 (learned the hard way)

Also installed PLENTY of 80mil thick sound deadening material to the doors, trunk, rear deck, everywhere I could really. Made the mids sound much warmer and less "tinny."
 

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Using the stock receiver? If so I would recommend ditching the factory amp and installing a line driver and running RCAs from there to your amp. Most people use a LOC from the rear 6x9's to their sub amp but those speakers only receive a certain frequency range (to make up for the poor quality of the factory speaker) and will leave many low notes sounding muddy.

I still haven't decided if i'm going to keep the stock receiver, maybe in the future I'll replace it. So would a LOC still be useful in an aftermarket unit? Also I plan on running new 12ga for everything.

And honestly I would ditch the 6x9s. Even if you throw a full range signal at them via an aftermarket amp they won'd do much for you besides rattle the ever loving shit out of the rear deck.

I am seriously considering taking them out, but IF I replaced them with 10" subs wouldn't that also rattle my car?

What I did:

Factory receiver - spliced the front 2 channels on the factory amp INPUT harness to a rockford fosgate line driver. From there ran some RCAs to my rear JL 500/1 amp, and then RCAs from that amp to my JL 300/4 amp.

For speaker wires I wanted to run new wire to the doors but I ran short on time so I ran my speaker wires from the JL 300/4 up the center console and spliced them back into each channel of the factory amp OUTPUT harness.

My set up is Focal 165A1 SG comps front and rear powered by a JL slash 300/4 and a JL 12w6 powered by a JL slash 500/1.

Since my remote wire is powered via regular 12 volt power and not a remote turn on via an aftermarket head unit I also installed a delay turnon module for the amps to prevent power on pops which fried my previous JL 12w6 (learned the hard way)

Wow I did not know that.I'm not if this is the right product or how many seconds I should delay it https://www.amazon.com/Delay-Relay-Board-Switch-Module/dp/B00VFUG3KK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1539800631&sr=8-7&keywords=12v+delay+turn+on+module

Also installed PLENTY of 80mil thick sound deadening material to the doors, trunk, rear deck, everywhere I could really. Made the mids sound much warmer and less "tinny."

I bought 3 packs of 36 sq ft. of NOICO 80 mil sounds deadener. In hot Texas heat and with the roller it was very easy to install. I'm going to be apply it everywhere I can
BTW your build is awesome! I'm probably going to be referring to it quite often haha:grin2:
 

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Update, still some heavy rains over here, and while I was taking apart the trunk I noticed water in the spare tire well. So sound mat is put off till I solve this issue.

https://imgur.com/a/n9GgR3l
This happens to me pretty often. There are drain holes so it appears Acura expected moisture to collect here. The bigger issue is how easily the drain holes clog with the smallest bits of debris. Try to keep the well clean...
 

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BTW your build is awesome! I'm probably going to be referring to it quite often haha:grin2:
Sorry never saw this. Thanks for the kind words. Did you get your trunk leak fixed? Curious to see how your current set up is sounding for you.
 

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So you put your JL sub in the spare tire wheel well? Nice! I did that in my 2003 Subaru Forester.

I did a full audio system upgrade on my 1G TSX as well, but I paid an installer to do it, I don't have the time/expertise and most of all, shop space to do this (I street park the car, and learning to do this would involve having my car be undriveable for a long time while I disassembled stuff!).

I got a custom subwoofer enclosure for a 10" JL driver from here:

https://shop.wickedcas.com/acura---2004-08-tsx-10-driver-side-sub-box-subwoofer-enclosure.html

You can get one or two, I just got the one and put it on the driver's side. Looks great and I keep my spare tire!

I also got an AudioControl EQ-S to help clean up the sound processing from the stock HU, which I kept for the HVAC controls. It's installed behind the drop-down armrest between the two rear seats. Really clean and stealth.

Powering front/rear sets of Alpine R-series 6.5" component speakers in the cabin is an Alpine PDX-V9 5-channel amplifier; I don't remember if I needed a LOC from the head unit.
 

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So you put your JL sub in the spare tire wheel well? Nice! I did that in my 2003 Subaru Forester.

I did a full audio system upgrade on my 1G TSX as well, but I paid an installer to do it, I don't have the time/expertise and most of all, shop space to do this (I street park the car, and learning to do this would involve having my car be undriveable for a long time while I disassembled stuff!).
My car has been in pieces for months now and its driving me nuts!

But theres light at the end of the tunnel. I ran into some issues with the power windows but it turned out to be a bad relay. So far I've put the sound mat on all 4 doors and the trunk, and ran all the door speaker wires to the amp under passenger seat.

I'm using the JL VX1000i and it has an integrated dsp, hopefully it sounds as good as getting them separately.
 

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Thanks a bunch! I'm about to start on the door speaker install but I'm considering buying a new component set besides the polk ones I got. But maybe sound difference is negligible.

Also I'm using the stock stereo right now but an aftermarket would be nice. Just haven't found suitable replacement that still keep volume controls.
 

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Discussion Starter #15

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I’m in the same boat. I bought the 10 inch android unit that’s a direct fit for our console. But the HVAC is not working properly so I had to go back to stock. Now deciding what I should do next. The stock radio works fine and I have the Crux Bluetooth connector for it to listen to my music. But I would like to modernize the interior a bit and the metra kit looks terrible. Also not a fan of running a second radio in the cubby and leaving the stock one there useless.

Sucks there is no other option for our car when it comes to adding a double din.
 
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Joe Ragusa
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