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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Like the subject says, just picked up a 2006 tsx in questionable shape.
Under moderate to harder braking, the rear lifts and actually shifts to the passenger side.
I had a cursory look under the car and everything seems fine; I haven’t got the jack out or tires off yet. The car is actually pretty clean, not a rust bucket.
Car is smooth on the highway, and if you just stand next to the car and jam it side to side nothing moves.
Any ideas? I haven’t seen any threads similar to this.

it does have 4 different tires on it though. That’s being addressed asap.

This is actually my son’s first car.
 

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Could be due to different tires with different traction, obviously get new tires all around.

I'd also jack it up and check tightness on every single fastener in the suspension (use tools, not just with your fingers). Also look for any rust or body damage where the suspension attaches to the body, especially shock towers.

If that doesn't solve it, better take it to a good shop.
 

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Can you describe any noises when this happens? You could have loose shocks. You may also have worn rear sway bar bushings or loose bolts. I've had several cars where the sway bar bushings wore and thus their hardware became loose which caused movement in the suspension. Worn sway bar end links is another source for movement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Can you describe any noises when this happens? You could have loose shocks. You may also have worn rear sway bar bushings or loose bolts. I've had several cars where the sway bar bushings wore and thus their hardware became loose which caused movement in the suspension. Worn sway bar end links is another source for movement.
there is no noise oddly enough. No clunks.
Sway bar and end links appear intact just from sticking my head under the car.
The back end just lifts up and shifts over. Pretty odd feeling.
I’ll know more this weekend, I don’t want to do all my kid’s work for him.
 

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Since new tires are being mounted on the car asap you might have the tire shop take a look to see what they find. Some things are not so obvious until an experienced eye gives it a second look.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Since new tires are being mounted on the car asap you might have the tire shop take a look to see what they find. Some things are not so obvious until an experienced eye gives it a second look.
I do my own work. I’ll probably even mount and balance myself (unless I find a deal I can’t beat myself). Was just looking for a heads up. Never hurts to get opinions. I’m new to this platform and its quirks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yea definitely going to destroy this arm removing it. Trying to find the correct rear arms is a joke.
I’m assuming this is the rear lower forward.
It would be nice if descriptions had any measurements for these.
 

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The looser arm is the 'control arm'. The loose arm closer to the front of the car is the 'lower arm'. Soak them with some bolt/nut breaker fluid to remove or tighten them, you may need a breaker bar for leverage. Control arms shouldn't be hard to find. I personally recommend replacing them with adjustable rear control/lower arms and having the rear aligned afterwards.

Some TSX's fall out of rear alignment and need the adjustable control arms to correct. Mine fell out of alignment with time and the little amount of toe that was off tore my tires(outside edge) up real quick. Not cheap when you are using pricey summer tires for grip.

You may just need to have the rear aligned by a shop and have them tighten both the control arm and lower arm when they're aligned. I believe the arms have camber bolts so there is room for some adjustment/alignment.
 

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If you watch that video closely, you will see that is not an easy fix.
Replacing the lower control arm will not fix the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If you watch that video closely, you will see that is not an easy fix.
Replacing the lower control arm will not fix the issue.
yep, most likely the hole is worn oblong. The bolt itself is likely hanging on by a thread as well.
Not that big of a deal, I’ll either make a bushing to key into it or weld a “washer” over it. Depends on how bad it is. Guessing welding a washer over it is the fix, hopefully some part of the original hole is intact so I have something to reference.

but the bolt is seized to the bushing, and I’ll have to destroy the control arm cutting it out to fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I’m not sure if these are it? It looks like a set of left and right of the same part, but it says it’s a set for one side (front and rear). The bushings don’t look correct for the front most arm .
Font Auto part Automotive exterior Bicycle part Metal
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I’m not sure if these are it? It looks like a set of left and right of the same part, but it says it’s a set for one side (front and rear). The bushings don’t look correct for the front most arm . View attachment 49574
These do appear to be the right items, after finding oe part numbers. Makes more sense.
I’ll fix this issue, figure out what the front needs, get tires on it then get it aligned (unfortunately that’s about the only thing I can’t really do myself.. not very well anyways)
 

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I saw all that play in the video and was concerned with whether the mounting holes had enlarged but was saving that for further discussion. All kinds of options were racing through my head- weld washers, just add larger washers and try to tighten after alignment, enlarge control arm holes to add wider bolts, etc. Good catch CalgaryTSX.

edit: You can try using an angle grinder to remove the bolt if it's not cooperating with sockets or wrenches. Looks like you have room for a grinder on one end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I saw all that play in the video and was concerned with whether the mounting holes had enlarged but was saving that for further discussion. All kinds of options were racing through my head- weld washers, just add larger washers and try to tighten after alignment, enlarge control arm holes to add wider bolts, etc. Good catch CalgaryTSX.

edit: You can try using an angle grinder to remove the bolt if it's not cooperating with sockets or wrenches. Looks like you have room for a grinder on one end.
Heat n beat, penetrating oil, bigger tools didn’t work. Just ripped the center of the bushing out. Kinda shocked considering how clean it looked.
Gotta order the replacement arms and then yea, angle grinder will be the most likely tool. I don’t need it sitting broken in the middle of the driveway waiting on parts though lol
 

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Heat n beat, penetrating oil, bigger tools didn’t work. Just ripped the center of the bushing out. Kinda shocked considering how clean it looked.
Gotta order the replacement arms and then yea, angle grinder will be the most likely tool. I don’t need it sitting broken in the middle of the driveway waiting on parts though lol
Yep every single honda product I have needed a new whole suspension recommend good after market adjustable arms cause oem won't give you good camber and or toe
 
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