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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Great advice. I downloaded the wiring diagrams for the car so I'll try to look at all the grounds I haven't touched yet. I will say though that I have already looked at the grounds associated with the ECU/micu and such.

One other thing (and I'm really just saying every small thing I've noticed at this point) is that the right bolt that mounts the ECU to the chassis was very rusted at the bottom, while the left bolt was not. Is this coincidence? Is the ECU grounded through it's chassis and the car's?
Found the problem. Ended up being a sneaky ground underneath the intake manifold cover that I didn't know existed until I looked at the wiring diagram. It was completely loose and corroded. Thank you for your help, guys!
 

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Thanks for the update and glad you got it resolved.

Did you swap the original MICU and ECU back into the car?

That ground has been identified as an issue years ago.
Even Hondata has a tech tip on their website to move it to the valve cover.


But the symptom is not usually no crank/ no start.

Years ago, I ran a separate ground wire from that ground location to the negative post of the battery.
Preventing that ground from ever becoming an issue on our TSX.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Thanks for the update and glad you got it resolved.

Did you swap the original MICU and ECU back into the car?

That ground has been identified as an issue years ago.
Even Hondata has a tech tip on their website to move it to the valve cover.


But the symptom is not usually no crank/ no start.

Years ago, I ran a separate ground wire from that ground location to the negative post of the battery.
Preventing that ground from ever becoming an issue on our TSX.
I did swap the original ECU back in, but not the MICU. I suppose this proves that the MICU does not need to be reprogrammed to match the car.

Like I said, I did plenty of searching through forums to find all the ground locations, but clearly I overlooked that one. For everyone's future reference if this thread ever gets looked at, my symptoms all caused by the bad ground were:
-no communication with ecu through obdii
-cranking, but only starting for a few seconds before dying, at which point it would not start again unless battery was disconnected for awhile
-very odd sounds coming from micu, not relay clicking but buzzing
-check vsa, traction control, brake systems, emissions system lights
-red battery light
-red oil light
-intermittent CEL
 

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Appreciate you following up and contributing to the knowledge base here. Hopefully you can save other people a big headache down the road.
 

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In had a similar situation with my recently purchased 2010 TSX. Crank but no run. The issue turned out to be 7.5 AMP METER fuse under driver dash. The cause of this issue happened when I inserted Backup Light LED (bought from Amazon) with key ON and emergency brake on and the car in reverse. I got a puff of smoke from the bulb connector, then car would crank but not start. I couldn't figure out problem so I towed it to Acura 'stealership'. They found the bad fuse and replaced it and ONLY charged me $242!!! I will never go there again!!
 

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In had a similar situation with my recently purchased 2010 TSX. Crank but no run. The issue turned out to be 7.5 AMP METER fuse under driver dash. The cause of this issue happened when I inserted Backup Light LED (bought from Amazon) with key ON and emergency brake on and the car in reverse. I got a puff of smoke from the bulb connector, then car would crank but not start. I couldn't figure out problem so I towed it to Acura 'stealership'. They found the bad fuse and replaced it and ONLY charged me $242!!! I will never go there again!!
It cost you $242 to fix the problem that you caused and then couldn’t figure out. Not $242 for a fuse.
 
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