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Discussion Starter #1
Under the gun at the moment to make a decision. My power steering rack has finally decided to take a piss and there is no way for me to fix it. I contacted Pikes Peak Acura in Colorado Springs as I just moved up here and was quoted ~$1500 parts and labor which is for a Napa Rack & Pinion. I do not view Napa parts, especially a rack, as something I would feel is trustworthy in terms of longevity. I almost feel that once the 12,000 mi / 1 year warranty ends, the rack will go. I have done more research than what I wanted to on this topic and its just pure bs that Acura doesn't admit any issues with it as my vehicle came from a hot climate (Texas) just like others whom had the issue. I got 176k out of my oem rack & pinion so I suppose I cant complain. My question is is that my other choice right now from an independent import shop quoting me close to $1400-1500 for a "Maval" rack which I have no information on other than it being good for other vehicle manufacturers. The Napa part is $270 with core from Napa's own website, which to me is a major issue and makes me think you get what you pay for. I would love nothing more than an OEM rack but that doesnt appear to be an option for me unless I bought it myself.

Does anyone know anything about Maval at all? Any input would be greatly appreciated. I would buy the OEM rack myself and do it but where I live in South CO, I dont have the room/space to do it especially when the street I am has a nice curvature to it.
 

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I paid $1900 for a new front rack 4 years ago at Acura of Tallahassee, FL...you could go second-hand, but if you want something this important done right, it's probably best to have the dealer do it. Interestingly, the service manager tried to buy my '06 with 110,000 miles on it from me...sorry, no sale. I just spent another $2k on: new plugs, valves adjusted (now have 168,000 miles), new tires and brakes (OEM) and body work from 14 years of parking lot dings. The thing looks and drives like new, and I owe nothing on it. I can't part with the thing at this point...just need a new disc for the NAV system and she's cherry.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I honestly appreciate the response. I made the mental decision that if I was able to get 176,000 out of my current Rack, then that is one piece I would be wise to go OEM with. Out of all the "discounted" Acura parts websites online, thankfully I was able to find one that is located in Denver which had knocked down the shipping cost considerably. The parts were also cheaper than everywhere else to boot. I cant say that I didnt know this was coming as I always got my oil change done at the dealership as they provided a point-to-point inspection and that was one of the major components they consistently warned about.

My damage was ~$1600 in parts and my only justification for that was that its because I got 176,000 miles out of my original Rack & Pinion. If there is one thing about this car that I have always dreaded, its been the Rack and the AC compressor problems, both of which I have officially suffered the wrath of. 176,000 on my 06 thus far but this car is something I will keep until the wheels fall off, and then ill replace the wheels. Sure, you can go cheap on the rack but I think I would have gotten what I paid for. Its definitely severe enough when the power steering reservoir is empty after having sat on a full reservoir since Saturday. Such is life. This site had the necessary resources, coupled with youtube videos, to get the job done but I just dont have the space to do it sadly.

For anyone coming across this post, one thing I learned is that the Accord AC compressor is damn near compatible with the TSX one. Motor mounts are also another thing...I bought mine for the 04-06 manual Accord, fit exactly the same and was 1/4 the price.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No worries!

Front mount = 50830-SEA-E14 (Paid $188.66)
Rear mount = 50810-SDA-E11 (Paid $199.73)

I went with Heeltoe and paid ~$400 after taxes & shipping because I had went through the entire gambit of "Acura cheap parts" websites available (Delray, Curry, etc) and after factoring in shipping for myself and whatnot, it just came out cheaper with Heeltoe. The parts above are what my order history shows.
 

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I went with a Maval rack from parts geek for $308. Bought rebuilt but I wanted an american rebrand. Installed myslef via a youtube tutorial. Its a real bitch of a job but so far so good. Several thousand miles since.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ended up sinking $2300 between parts and labor which sucked. There went my stimulus check and tax refund. My wheel is shaking like crazy now which makes horseshit sense so before I go back to the dealership I had the work done at (there is only one Honda dealer here, no Acura and Honda would not install it or work on Acuras...stupid long story). Planning on snagging compliance bushings, rest of the LCA bushings, ball joints and maybe the front hub bearings and getting those suckers pressed in because if I am going back to the dealership, it would be pointless to get ANOTHER alignment afterwards. Its a shitty year for me with this crap. The town I moved to up here in Colorado, seems like there are hardly any damn machine shops and I dont have a hydraulic press for this crap. Autozone doesnt show the bushing/bearing tool to be available which makes shit even worse for me.
 

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Buy your LCAs new. They are $40 to $100 on Rock Auto and come with all new bushings. The upper control arms are in the same range and come with the ball joint installed. I did the lower ball joints with the Autozone tool and it was a bear. I had a local shop replace the LCAs and a wheel bearing but my sourcing of parts kept the cost low. Not sure why but the knuckles are not available with the bearings installed, otherwise it would be all bolt in work.
With careful measuring a good alignment can be preserved after major work. I did not need an alignment after I replaced my steering rack about 50k miles ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I did a crapload of research and managed to compare the price of brand new oem LCA's to the aftermarket ones (I find a ton of negative reviews on aftermarket parts for this gen) and found a local shop that could press in all of my bushings/bearings for ~$100. This is 6 bushings (2 LCAs), both ball joints, and both hub bearings. Considering I do need new ball joints, I have to get the hub assembly out anyways which in turn makes it a no brainer to replace them with NSK bearings (manufacturer of the OEM hub bearings) for ~$80 in parts for both. Reason for my wanting to pursue this route is that I not only knock out wear and tear items, I dont waste having to get another alignment. Seriously had the rack replaced ~1 month ago or so and this is what my wheel is doing now. When I picked the car up, it wasnt doing this whatsoever. Power steering fluid isnt low and isnt showing signs of failure whatsoever. It ******* sucks.

In regards to the prices of the parts, I am a couple hours away from Denver and managed to find the cheapest Acura parts prices with the lowest shipping (AllDiscountParts.com). Havent had any issues with them and when compared to benardi, Curry, and a few other websites....this one comes out the lowest. Buying al the bushings, bearings, and ball joints comes out to just under $15-20 when compared to buying the entire LCA brand new OEM.
 

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Wow, that is some serious shaking and pulling to the right. Something was seriously screwed up by them. I know you have few choices but I would be wary of handing them more work since they have bungled the rack installation already. From personal experience I know that dealership work doesn’t always mean the best work. I have had to go in after work done by a dealership to my Jeep and Mazda vehicles. My guess is that when we go in with an older vehicle, the lower ranking mechanics get the job and we suffer for it. My LCAs were moogs from Rock Auto and they are fine at 50k. Best of luck. The car is worth the effort.
 

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SF1204 - I am with you on avoiding aftermarket LCA. Been researching them myself and read plenty of Moog and the others not lasting past a year. My plan is to get some OEM arms off ebay since they're around $40 each, order all new OEM bushings, get a local shop to press them, and then seal them with some 80A casting urethane from Mcmaster (search my comment history for more detail on that) to stiffen things up and prevent the compliance bushings from wearing out too quick.

This way i can take my time applying the urethane and let it cure, not have to rush to get the arms out, new bushings, and installed back in, etc... and i can sell my old LCA on ebay hopefully to recoup the costs.

another cheapo option i suppose would be to get the cheap Moog LCA and fill the bushings in with the casting urethane. I'm not really pinching pennies so i prefer the OEM route but i don't see why that wouldn't work. Those bushings will last forever filled in with casting urethane.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Wow, that is some serious shaking and pulling to the right. Something was seriously screwed up by them. I know you have few choices but I would be wary of handing them more work since they have bungled the rack installation already. From personal experience I know that dealership work doesn’t always mean the best work. I have had to go in after work done by a dealership to my Jeep and Mazda vehicles. My guess is that when we go in with an older vehicle, the lower ranking mechanics get the job and we suffer for it. My LCAs were moogs from Rock Auto and they are fine at 50k. Best of luck. The car is worth the effort.
Yep, I have very little choice in this one. I called them today and left a voicemail, got nothing. I am going to call them again tomorrow several times and drive up there if they dont answer. I cant drive my ******* car more than a mile without being pissed off with how bad it is. It feels like absolute shit. There is no clicking noises, no clunking noises, nothing. Its almost like the tire is grabbing and the toe and alignment is all ****** because the only issue I had was that the previous OEM rack was pissing PS fluid like crazy. I had no issues with the steering at all. If you could transfer a clunking noise into something you can feel but cant hear, thats exactly how the steering wheel feels.
 
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