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Love the updates! Looking forward to seeing you install all the Euro R bits.

And I love Koni but this car definitely needs a good, mono-tube, high pressure shock to control weight transfer. What spring rates are you currently on?
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I don't know what the spring rates are with the Pro-Kit, probably too low because the car moves quite a bit over bumps. There is a dip I go over every day leaving work, the Acura I have to go way slow or I hear it rub, the Mitsu I can fly over it and the dampening soaks it up.

The coil-overs on my other car are 8k front 7k rear and they feel perfect.
https://www.maperformance.com/produ...8-2015-mitsubishi-lancer-evolution-x-mis-mi10


I was thinking about going with Fortune 500s?
https://shop-fortune-auto.com/colle.../acura-tsx-cl9-2004-2008-500-series-coilovers

I haven't decided what to go with. I definitely don't have the budget for this car to go big money.

I'd also like to go with the following but I haven't done enough research to say definitively if I'll do it or not.

https://www.heeltoeauto.com/bushing...8-acura-tsx-all-flp.compliancebearing.pr.html

https://www.heeltoeauto.com/js-raci...7-cl9-cl7-ff-roll-center-adjuster-fcj-e2.html

On top of the suspension, I'll have to do the axles because I'm getting some vibration, and while I have it all apart I should do the upper ball joint as well. Its throw money parts at a car I like or buy something new and make payments.
 

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I don't know what the spring rates are with the Pro-Kit, probably too low because the car moves quite a bit over bumps. There is a dip I go over every day leaving work, the Acura I have to go way slow or I hear it rub, the Mitsu I can fly over it and the dampening soaks it up.

I was thinking about going with Fortune 500s?
https://shop-fortune-auto.com/colle.../acura-tsx-cl9-2004-2008-500-series-coilovers

I haven't decided what to go with. I definitely don't have the budget for this car to go big money.

I'd also like to go with the following but I haven't done enough research to say definitively if I'll do it or not.

https://www.heeltoeauto.com/bushing...8-acura-tsx-all-flp.compliancebearing.pr.html

https://www.heeltoeauto.com/js-raci...7-cl9-cl7-ff-roll-center-adjuster-fcj-e2.html

On top of the suspension, I'll have to do the axles because I'm getting some vibration, and while I have it all apart I should do the upper ball joint as well. Its throw money parts at a car I like or buy something new and make payments.
Ah, that's right i forgot you're on the Pro-Kit. Here are the rates:
Front = 6.6K (372#)
Rear = 3.9K (217#)

I have zero experience with FortuneAuto but I do hear good things. For reference, I'm on 16k/9k (900/500#) on my car. I've tried a ton of springs and crunched some numbers on ride frequency and this seems to be the best combo I've found so far.

The PCI compliance bearing will be a noticeable upgrade. I still need to swap my set back in.

I'd hold off on the roll center adjuster. This will reduce your already short amount of suspension travel causing your upper arms to hit the shock tower. I'm perfectly happy with the stock ball joints.

If you're still on OEM axles I'd highly recommend getting Marcus' performance inner joint kit.
https://www.heeltoeauto.com/new-fastline-performance-inner-axle-joint-kits.html

And I've thrown so much stupid money at my TSX but I still enjoy driving it. Currently at 223k and still going strong. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Those rates are pretty low, I guess that's why I get so much suspension travel over dips and such.

I know you are affiliated with Eibach, is there a set up you recommend from them that would be in the $1500 range or is that not enough to dip into that sweet sweet Eibach pool?

I've heard a lot of good about Fortune as well, they don't make the 510s for the TSX, only the 500 series, but they have a lot of options if you want different rates and such.

Can you explain your rationale on the higher rates on your car? From what I understand you'd want higher rates if you were pretty low and didn't want the travel that could possibly damage the car? I don't/will never track the car, nothing even close to me to play around and I don't have the time or money. And I'll end up raising the car a little so I shouldn't need real high rates?

Thanks for the intel on the ball joints, I'll just go with OEM then. Seems once a month I see a post on the FB group with a balljoint failure, so I figured while the suspension is apart swap them out. Any recommendations for the upper joint? I thought about those Skunk upper control arms but I don't think I'll need that much adjustment so it might be better to just swap out the ball joint, I thought that maybe a new arm with everything in it might be better so I get new bushings. Any recommendations?
 

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Those rates are pretty low, I guess that's why I get so much suspension travel over dips and such.

I know you are affiliated with Eibach, is there a set up you recommend from them that would be in the $1500 range or is that not enough to dip into that sweet sweet Eibach pool?

I've heard a lot of good about Fortune as well, they don't make the 510s for the TSX, only the 500 series, but they have a lot of options if you want different rates and such.

Can you explain your rationale on the higher rates on your car? From what I understand you'd want higher rates if you were pretty low and didn't want the travel that could possibly damage the car? I don't/will never track the car, nothing even close to me to play around and I don't have the time or money. And I'll end up raising the car a little so I shouldn't need real high rates?

Thanks for the intel on the ball joints, I'll just go with OEM then. Seems once a month I see a post on the FB group with a balljoint failure, so I figured while the suspension is apart swap them out. Any recommendations for the upper joint? I thought about those Skunk upper control arms but I don't think I'll need that much adjustment so it might be better to just swap out the ball joint, I thought that maybe a new arm with everything in it might be better so I get new bushings. Any recommendations?
Heard great things about Fortune Auto. A buddy of mine on here and the FB groups is selling his brand new set with upgraded swift springs. 14k/10k I think. Maybe 200 miles on them.. think he was asking $1,500. Richard Dan is his name. I'd check them out.

For upper ball joints, if you want to keep a factory a-arm you cant go wrong with OEM or a well known replacement like Moog. I just did Moog LBJ and inner/outer tie rods and I'm happy with them.

I have hardrace upper LCA's - may be worth looking into since you already have the rear hardrace arms. I went to look for replacement upper ball joints for this arm but they don't seem to be as accessible as say skunk2 replacement ball joints. I also did the hardrace LCA bushings. My old ones weren't terrible but did all the work together. Tony is on to something with the PCI compliance bushing. If I could do it again I'd add that one in replacement of the hardrace compliance bushing.

Great update - glad you're still plugging along.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Thanks for the info regarding the ball joints.

I did see those coil overs for sale but I dont think I need spring rates that high. Actually talked to him about his seats but he is too far of a drive, I'll have to wait for a set that can be shipped.
 

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I know you are affiliated with Eibach, is there a set up you recommend from them that would be in the $1500 range or is that not enough to dip into that sweet sweet Eibach pool?
Unfortunately, we do not have any coilovers we make for the TSX. I went with a Ground Control set up when I first started putting my car together before months and months of convincing our engineers to make me a single set.

Can you explain your rationale on the higher rates on your car? From what I understand you'd want higher rates if you were pretty low and didn't want the travel that could possibly damage the car? I don't/will never track the car, nothing even close to me to play around and I don't have the time or money. And I'll end up raising the car a little so I shouldn't need real high rates?
I went with the higher rates because my suspension is more track focused. I wanted the car to react quicker to weight transfer on the track. If you don't plan on tracking or anything near that level of performance then your needs will be much different.

Any recommendations for the upper joint? I thought about those Skunk upper control arms but I don't think I'll need that much adjustment so it might be better to just swap out the ball joint, I thought that maybe a new arm with everything in it might be better so I get new bushings. Any recommendations?
I'm using the Hard Race upper arms and I'm happy with those so far.
 

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For coilovers I recommend KW/ST. The damping feels premium and close to mono-tube. It is a install-it-and-forget it setup for sporty street use. I also hear good thing about FA - from what I read it is comparable to Tein if not better.

Unless you track your car, there is not much point going over 10kg/mm front and 7kg/mm rear.

For the front I would suggest a minimum of 7kg/mm to keep the front dive small braking into corners. If your want to lower your car further, 7kg/mm might use too much travel. KW is variable spring 9kg/mm, so I think it probably goes from 8 initially to 10 when compressed, which is perfect for hardcore street use in my book.

For the rear, I feel 4kg/mms is the best for handling and comfort. From 5kg/mm and above comfort starts going away.
 
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Discussion Starter #30
Thanks for the spring rate recommendations.
Is it the Variant 1 KW set you recommend?
 

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Thanks for the spring rate recommendations.
Is it the Variant 1 KW set you recommend?
Yes, KW only has v1 for our cars. ST is essentially the same as v1 but with zinc-coated steel body instead of stainless steel.
 

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Man, I love your garage! I've had to do 4 engine removals and 3 installs in a tiny 1.5 car garage.

A word on LCA bushings. I had the PCI bushings installed for a couple weeks and didn't think the
crisper turning response was worth the extra road noise transmitted into the vehicle chassis.
I have TL LCA compliance bushings and they are noticeably better than the stock TSX bushings.
Get the 04-06 TL bushings as they are stiffer than the 07-08 bushings.

Something that everyone seems to overlook (or dismiss) are the Spoon rigid collars. Those are
my favorite mod. After installing those the chassis felt tighter and the steering response was
more immediate. For such a simple mod, I can't believe more people don't install them.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Thank you for the input.

The garage is great, its a 24x36 building.
I can fit two cars, a 2011 Tacoma (access cab and 6ft bed), four tons of pellets, two tool boxes, and a bunch of misc stuff and I can still easily walk around everything and do any work I'd need to on the vehicles. I have some built in shelves now which helped clean things up, and I have an older shed about the size of a one car garage that I can keep all the lawn equipment in which helps keep the temple clean.



I was seriously looking into the collars but read a pretty scathing long term review regarding grease, or noise, or something. I cant find the thread and its no longer in my history, if I ever come across it I'll post it. I think the thread was regarding an S2000.

What do you think about these if I dont do the solid bushing? This way I get three new bushings and dont have to pay anyone to press them in or out (quoted $150) plus whatever the price of bushings.

https://www.heeltoeauto.com/camber-...0mm-sway-bar-link-mount-6979-har.6979-17.html

Assuming I dont replace the TSX with some other awesome TSX this spring I was planning on doing new coil-overs, axles, ball joints, and various bushings.
 

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You can also buy the hardrace LCA bushings alone and press them in/have them pressed in. That's what I did and it made a huge difference.



If I could do it again I'd use the PIC spherical bushings. My car audio set up is so loud I never hear road noise so that's not a concern to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
What did you pay for the bushings then the pressing, if you have that knowledge handy, otherwise I can google.
 

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What did you pay for the bushings then the pressing, if you have that knowledge handy, otherwise I can google.
The bushing kit was $150-$160 or so iirc. I pressed them in myself at my family's shop, but I don't see a shop taking more than an hour to do the job - I'd be shocked if a shop charged more than $75-$100 to do the work.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Did you do axles on yours or had they already been done?
I've got some vibration, I was going to change them both out when I do the work. I've heard Raxles are good, trying to avoid the OEM axle pricetag.
 

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When I got the car the previous owner had swapped in new OEM axles maybe a year before. That said 2 years later and I get the dreaded 60-65 mph shake. I'm going to be swapping in a new trans here next week and found one cleaning looking OEM axle (used but it does look good). Wanted to find 2 clean ones but it'll be fine for now.

I've heard good feedback from Raxles, but not sure about on the TSX specifically. One thing to notice is that any aftermarket axle usually doesn't have the little rubber damper on the shaft. Not sure how much it actually does but it's gotta help somewhat. I think you can still find OEM parts to rebuild your axles if you don't wanna shell out the dough for new OEM ones (I sure as shit don't)
 

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Gotta chime in on rigid collars.

It works wonderfully, but only when powertrain/suspension/steering components all work correctly. Anything wrong, and you will feel it. Not necessarily a bad thing if you have the time and resource to keep the car in top shape.

As for noise, my car had too many issues in the past year that I lost reference. But I think it does not increase a lot, on the assumption that all other components run normally.
 

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J-Spec
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sonyfever said:
Gotta chime in on rigid collars.

It works wonderfully, but only when powertrain/suspension/steering components all work correctly. Anything wrong, and you will feel it. Not necessarily a bad thing if you have the time and resource to keep the car in top shape.

As for noise, my car had too many issues in the past year that I lost reference. But I think it does not increase a lot, on the assumption that all other components run normally.
Sounds more like you are talking about the PCI bearings, not the Spoon rigid collars?

The rigid collars are designed to eliminate movement of the subframes by filling in the gaps between the mounting
bolts and the subframe holes/slots with aluminum. They function like a crush washer but a more complex shape to fit the application.
They need to be installed correctly in order to work and the directions are not obvious. I had to inquire with Spoon to clarify, and they
responded promptly with an updated pdf of the directions, which was much appreciated.

Also, the rigid collars come with anti-seize, which some may mistake for grease, since the tube has Japanese characters on it.
I didn't use the anti-seize because my car will never see winter or salt.
 
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