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2007 Acura TSX Hands Free Link draining battery

874 Views 9 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Jottle
Hello, I just took my Acura to the dealer to help me figure out why the new battery was drained after the car was not driven for 2 days. This has happened about 4 times in the last year. The dealer found that the Hands Free Link was drawing .23 Amps while the car was not running. They disconnected the HFL and charged me $242.44. The alternative was to replace the HFL for over $2000. I have noticed alot of conversations about this happening to other honda and acura cars. My question for the community is this a recall item? Is there anyway that I can get reinbursed from the Acura dealer if this is a know problem, or just go without the HFL and pay the bill for $242.44?
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There is no recall that I've seen but I can't say for your case since it depends on the year model(?) you have. As research has abundantly shown, many just unplug the module. Others have tried to have the solder joints redone and others have replaced the module. Most just leave it unplugged because of cost. You can always try to get reimbursed but that depends on whether your particular dealer is willing to work with you on this.

I tried to reflow my solder joints without success so I just unplugged the module because the cost of a new one ($1000) was more than I was willing to pay for the small convenience of having HFL. It was very simple to unplug.
We have not had this issue in our 2006 TSX... (Now I likely just jinxed it)..

There are numerous TSX's around here in the wreckers, I wonder if I should just pick up a used spare for cheap...

This link shows that the Bluetooth module is the same for 2006-08 and its currently available from Acura for US$1400 (holy heck)...

I would definitely NOT replace the module, that's just me. There are a TON of Acuras from this time period that had the faulty HFL BT modules with the parasitic drain.....MDX, TL, TSX just to name a few, all from this era. The problem was systemic and Honda let it go for years. Trust me, your 2006 WILL have this problem and you can't fix it just by replacing the faulty designed part. It was faulty by design. I think you're asking for trouble by just replacing it with the same defectively designed part. Just unplug it, it's not like it will ever do you any good anyhow. Absolutely useless part, I think there was a list of compatible phones at the time, now it's 15 years later, don't bother. Just my .02. I would rather remove(or unplug) the offending part than replace it and end up stranded somewhere with a dead battery just because you stubbornly believe Honda didn't knowingly produce a TON of cars/SUVs with this known defect.

And yes, it should have been recalled, but it WASN'T, so deal with it accordingly.
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Of course no one is going to spend US$1400 on an OEM replacement bluetooth module even if Acura gave a lifetime warranty.
I think that Acura gives a 90 warranty on new parts and perhaps zero warranty on electrical/electronic parts...
I also see that there are no updated part numbers on this module, which indicates that Acura/Honda never updated the BT module... lame...


But... $10 on a used BT module from an autowrecker for someone who has strong automotive skills is worthwhile IMO...
The odds are it won't resolve the issue but it's only $10 and a bit of time...


Further thinking on this, if the BT module is draining the battery but it works when the car is running, I wonder if one could wire in a relay to kill the BT module power when the TSX is turned off???
The relay would still power up the BT module when the engine is running...

A temporary switch in the BT module power wire would quickly test this theory... :)
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Yes a switch would work, surprised that I didn't think of it. I'm an ex-electronic tech. You'd need a 12v normally open (NO) relay that is triggered by power when the ignition is turned on. It will be automatic or hands-free (pun intended).

Or a plain mechanical switch (ON/OFF) that you have to trigger every time you turn your car off and every time you start the car and want to use the HFL module. Good thinking CalgaryTSX.
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Can also use a P-channel MOSFET (or even N-channel if you could do low-side on it), but those require a little more nuance. I prefer solid state switching, so that's just my OCD talking. Regardless, adding a switch (any kind) is a good idea. If you ever get it going, please share with a post!
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Thanks Lightspeed... I too have a electronics hardware background but only fix broken software for the last many years... :)

I have no idea if disabling power to the bluetooth module would even work but it's worth investigating.
A temporary switch to temporarily test the theory but a switch wouldn't be a good permanent solution.
If you jumped out of the car and forgot to turn the switch off, you could kill your battery.

A solid state relay would work but I prefer a mechanical relay for a much lower failure rate.

I just ran out to our garage to check on our TSX's battery. 12.2V, it's fine!
We don't drive our TSX in the winter, I will fire it up today.
We have a beater Honda HRV for winter use.
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Disabling power (unplugging module) works as I have found out through my own experience. Also, many others have removed the fuse that powers that module and a zero current drain results. The one caveat that I can think of is that if other devices also draw excess current then you're just slowing down the drain which may work if you drive the car enough...until you don't.

A solid state relay (i.e. Bosch 12V) should work as long it's a Normally Open one and triggered by a circuit that is only powered when the ignition is on. That way the relay closes and allows power (+12V line) to the HFL module when you're driving. They're pretty reliable relays. And yes if you leave the ignition ON (keys in) then you will eventually drain the battery enough...or someone might drive off with it before then. 🤣

And you can also use discrete circuits that use transistors but there really isn't a need here since you're not trying to filter anything, clamp power, clean the signal or regulate it out of necessity. You're just trying to interrupt the power. Of course if you want to play with a mechanical switch while the ignition is On then you can fry the module by creating power surges or spikes.

I understand how having a HFL module is more necessary for some and why it causes so much grief. Luckily It's something I can live without, though it was nice having a hands free phone connection. I can now ignore the phone while driving and enjoy the drive that much more. 😄
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Everyone seems to get this problem eventually in the 04-08. As others have said, it should be the subject of a class action suit. And there's actually one winding its way to class status currently. If you do want to get your hfl working again, there's a guy who will reflow the solder for you. I did it years ago and it's been working ever since. YMMV, but PM me and I'll give you the info for his shop. You'll have to mail the hfl to him, but it's super easy to remove and reinstall.
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