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Discussion Starter #1
I am new to the forum, found it thru an internet search looking for info one improving the sound system. As a former Engineer for Bose I found it very inferior and muddy lacks clarity and no punch poor bass reproduction. So I have started at it by buying Polk Audio DB691's 6 X 9's for the rear deck. Wow when I found out what was there and compared it to the Polk Audio speakers it was no reason why no comparison when I looked at the speakers. I have no installed them yet stay tuned for the results. Next I bought 6.5" front door speakers from JL Audio and they look nice although I have not gotten the door panels off which from what I understand is required. Has anyone done a complete or partial upgrade and tell about the results?
 

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Im interested to read about the results! i want to upgrade my speakers badly too
 

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<~~~~ this guy has!

Congrats on the Polk 6x9s. Personally, I hate the sound of 6x9s but the ones you picked are near the top of my very short list. Should brighten the back part of your audio spectrum emmensly. What series of JL did you go with? If you liked the sound of the BOSE equipment (some dont like what they work with lol) JL might not be the ideal choice because of thier soft dome tweeters that dont reproduce very high frequencies very well ie a cymbol being played hard. Were you able to listen to them before you bought? Im amazed that most of these car audio shops dont have listening rooms anymore, its a crime!

Most of this stuff was leftover after a large (150db) system.

Right now im running the Stock Acura Navigation Unit. After looking around, there is no nice aftermarkt h/u option for the TSX. So I decided that I would run a sound processor in line with my Nav unit and aftermarket amps. But first i wanted to see how flat the sound curve out of the h/u was before i went tinkering with it. At my amazement, its pretty flat until you get above 15 on the h/u volume. So i tuned my system to have full output at 15 and never installed a sound processor. Just in case you were wondering what to do about source, I wouldnt, just tune the amps to max out at 15 and hi/lo it and your source stays flat.

The system im running now consists of
2 Sets of Focal 165K2P
One set upfront in the stock locations, with the tweeter facing the windshield and the midrange in the door using a 1" riser ring due to not enough dept for the driver in the door. The second set is in the 6x9 hole using a plate to hold the 6.5 and tweeter in the same location. The rear door speakers were unhooked and not in use. I wanted to do a soundstage for the rear, but i didnt want to drill a hole in the door panel for the tweeter, so a basic front and rear setup is what i went with.

Subwoofer-
2 DC Sound Lab LvL4 sealed in thier own enclosures. The two enclosures i created using two gallons of resin and Pounds of fiber mat, weave mat, and rope! These were built as strong as i physically could make them.

Power-
For the door speakers i run a JL Audio 600.4HD series amp. I run this amp for two reasons, JLs Legendary clarity and power and also because of its size. I needed a big bomb in a little package to produce the 150watts per channel for the Focals' and got it with this. I love this Amp! This amp, along with my focals, i may never-ever sell. Because they are absolutely perfect. For the subs i run a LARGE Sundown 3500.1 amp. This is a leftover from the harley edition. This amp is a power hungry BEAST with its at .5-1ohm. I decided when i first installed the system that the car wasnt going to handle it at full tilt, it would suck the vehicle dry of amperage. I reconded the subs to show the amp a 2ohm load and havent had a problem since. The amp right now puts out [email protected]@12.5 volts. PLENTY of power for the 2 12s.

Electrical-
I still havent finished the system but it has been playing for almost two years now and havent had an electrical problem yet. I added a Kinetic KHC2400 battery in the wheel well in the trunk. This also was a leftover from the Harley Edition. Its a little heavy and a little bulky but its a powerhouse. This alone is the reason i havent had a problem with my electrical system.

Wires-
Power wires are a mix of welding lead and jl power and ground wires. The power from front to rear battery is 0ga. from the battery there is another 0ga going to the subwoofer amp w matching ground and a 4ga power/ground going to the JL. RCAs are JL Audio Blues.

With you working for bose and knowing what "pretty" good sound is (lol) i wanted to share my system with you because as far as i have seen its the farthest anyone has gone with a sound system in these vehicles. It isnt a SPL or streat beater its a sound system capable of recreating sound in a fashon that the artist would have performed it. Although it has the capability to beat with all of them, i wanted it to be a SQ car. I did spl back with the harley, it gets old. SQ is never perfect.

I wish i could post pics, but i havent been able to figure that one out yet. Lemme know if you have any questions. Enjoy.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Wow I knew working for Bose there were true audiophiles but didn't think that there would be such real audiophiles for car stereo's as well lol!! Imagine that much effort into a car stereo! Now tell me if thats in the car what in Gods name is in the damn house lol!
 

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I know lots of people that spend 10x as much time and money on their car stereo then they do with their home stereo haha
 

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Also you know that much about car stereo and don't know how to post pictures online :smh::squint:
 

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I am such a wannabe audiophile... Do you guys have any drop in speaker recommendations for the doors and tweeters? I don't want a sub or an aftermarket amp, just a speaker replacement and I appreciate clarity in a sound system.
 

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Haha been doing car audio since before I could drive. This one is small comprared to that Harley edition. 6 amps 4 subs 3 sets of components 4 screens including wiring in 3 Sharp screens (hater vision in HS) compressor REAL t chime train horns etc etc

I have been on this site much less as long. Everytime I try to put up pics it says they are too big. Tried loading them on Photobucket but still no.

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Everyone is a wannabe audiophile. It depends on if you know what you listening for. First thing you need to do is learn what you like and figure out what materials the speakers are made of. Example tweeters, are made out of all kinds of different materials...silk, metals etc. Go to a store w a sound stage and listen to what you like and figure out what materials you like. Then you can be steered toward a brand or type.

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Oh ok I'll do that. It just seems there is a bit of vagueness in the OEM speaker setup. The high's are harsh and tinny at times and there is a void somewhere between my mids and highs....It's hard to explain(like I said, I'm a wannabe). Hopefully I can find a place near me that I can sample and has a knowledgeable staff.
 

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From what I have read here and elsewhere, upgrading the 6x9s are the best bang for the buck. I should have my Polk DXi690 here soon Im hoping. The stock stereo in the 3g TL blows the Tsx out of the water. Stock for stock anyways lol. I want to see how impressed I am with just doing the 6x9, then may do the door speakers, but idk.
 

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Oh ok I'll do that. It just seems there is a bit of vagueness in the OEM speaker setup. The high's are harsh and tinny at times and there is a void somewhere between my mids and highs....It's hard to explain(like I said, I'm a wannabe). Hopefully I can find a place near me that I can sample and has a knowledgeable staff.
It is. That is correct. What your missing is midbass. It reproduces highs and lows because of how they tune it. Problem is the size speaker they are asking to reproduce the sound being created isnt right. The tweeter sounds somewhat correct because thats what it is designed for and how the headunit is tuned, but the mid was never created to reproduce anything below 200hz, but they drive it to. This causes muddying/over extension of the midrange affect alot of male voices or sounds in the midrange. This is because the speaker is trying to recreate two freqencies at the same time that are too far apart to do so accurately. They are underpowerd and flemsey at BEST, yes even that one that you paid extra for.
 

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From what I have read here and elsewhere, upgrading the 6x9s are the best bang for the buck. I should have my Polk DXi690 here soon Im hoping. The stock stereo in the 3g TL blows the Tsx out of the water. Stock for stock anyways lol. I want to see how impressed I am with just doing the 6x9, then may do the door speakers, but idk.
Meh, im sure its nice but bang for the buck would be upgrading the front. If you ever go to a concert where does the music come from, in front of you. If I had to choose between getting a decent 6.5 and 6x9 for the TSX or a Great pair of 6.5 I would go with a Great pair of 6.5 and unhook the 6x9. Music was designed to be heard in front of you.
 

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There are many compaies to recommend but you have to figure out your listening taste. Still to this day Boston Acoustics has some of the most bang for your buck 6.5 components. But then there is JL, Focal, Polks higher lines (if they fit, they notorious for being deep) etc etc. Forgive me, I can't remember all the other brands I have come across over the years. Also don't just drop in a tweeter and a coaxle door speaker. Run a component set with a crossover. It gives you a lot more tunability and sounds cleaner.

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Discussion Starter #16
Well to address D Garages comment I don't have a pic up as I just joined this forum the other day. Back to the business at hand the bad news on the polk audio swap out for the stock 6 x 9's on the rear deck is that i virtually can't even drive them with the stock head unit. So to drive these 3 ways I guess now it means a separate amp! Then when I replace the 6.5's in the front doors with my JL Audio's I guess they might require their own amp too?? Any then a wiring harness and running a separate power line and signal lines to the amp and speakers. This was more than I orinally bargained for yikes!
 

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Thats something you should have planned for. When doing an amp bypass u always are going to need a power source, because you are bypassing the power lol. It will work short term, but long term I would look for a 4 channel amp to ultimately power your whole interior. You can run two amps but like you said your going to have to have two sets of wires, or some kind of power separating "block" to route power.

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Im looking to buy speakers too i want those Polk Audio db691 too but, I noticed that there is 2 diffrent pairs, 300W, and 600W, which ones should i take, which one is better? I love to have a good sound im a sound feak kinda heh, I have a 1996 bose surround system by my pc which is the best thing ever sound so deep and clear its amazing, and for the home theater I have Onkoy 5.1 surround system THX certified which makes my whole house shake cause i have it in the basement XD specialy while watching action movies.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I don't know anything about a 600W DB691 however again you will need a separate amp to drive even the 300W Polk Audio 6 x 9' speakers. The head unit barely moves them much at all, I was amazed but again compared to the crap Pioneers that were in there they should sound amazing
 
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