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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
## 2009 Acura- Check Emission System and check VSA, rough running, misfiring

Hello, I posted in another persons as well (I was not sure on posting protocols)


2009 Acura TSX, Misfired,
Managed to inch to a parking lot, lucked out auto parts store right next door
po303 #3 cylinder miss fire, random-multiple misfire

okay:
had vehicle towed to my sisters
Put 4 new iridium plugs in (Can the upcoming events have fouled the plugs?)

still miss firing,
okay:
Moved ignition coils, located #3 to be bad, swapped it with 2 other places to confirm movement of misfire with ignition coil, Put tape over coil three.

Then stuff got strange
The coil they sent was wrong. It didn't fit. seat right. it wasn't right. so I went round and round cause the grooves and the diameters were off but I think I FINALLY have one that is correct
I checked the resistance of two of the coils on the side of the motor that were firing
firing position: [4,3,2,1]
firing order: {1,3,2,4}
##LOOKING AT MOTOR###

I ended up having to wait for the ignition coil, and the car had to be towed a second time from where I had it parked (where I thought I would be working on it but my sister rules at life)
So now im doing it without my brother in laws tools getting frustrated.

When I was testing however, I moved coil #3(the new WRONG one) to the #4 and vice versa and that is when the light started flashing about the exhaust, it smelled like it was only firing on half the motor. it sounded like it was running on only half the motor.

Then!
Its here. Got the battery charged, put all coils back in original positions, still new spark plugs. I go to start it.

Sounds like it doesnt have compression?? But not broken timing belt. There is not that high pitched " weee wee, weeee weee" sound (yes. I know. technical shit right there) So im going to do a spark test tomorrow, check fuel injectors. but cylinders 1 and 2 the plugs looked like they had been through a war, so I assume I smoked those plugs with all the swapping??
It just seems like a lot of stuff to happen at all at once
and right before 200k!!!
199k. or 198 really close to 9. its really damn close!


-Duncan
 

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Well, it’s not a timing belt for starters. Take off the valve cover and see what the chain looks like. 200k miles is around the point it gets inspected anyway. There’s a chance it’s been poorly maintained and it’s out of spec already. You could also do a compression test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, it’s not a timing belt for starters. Take off the valve cover and see what the chain looks like. 200k miles is around the point it gets inspected anyway. There’s a chance it’s been poorly maintained and it’s out of spec already. You could also do a compression test.
Hello Sam!
Thanks for the advice!

I agree with the compression test, I cant find the specs. I have a not so legal version of Alldata that works up until vehicle years 2014, but im trying to prove to myself that these schematics and this information is readily available...
20210604_080713.jpg #NOTE: These are two new coils. The next picture with the white around the tip of the coil is the coil I took out. Nothing has been put in as of yet. This was the start of the battle. After swapping and narrowing down the coil to #3, the coils I got were all different. Some of the shafts were not straight and had grooves. The one that came out had a groove in the top right where the boot meets the head
20210601_180231.jpg The bottom coil is #3 out of the car. The shaft is different. You cant see the triangle on the top of coil from this angle tho. It looks like where the plastic was poured. It looks like a little triangle emblem, maybe even how it keys in? I am not positive but it doesnt seem to contact anything that would obstruct it from fitting. (Triangle or not) It was more the shaft that was wrong. The diameter was different and the new one used those grooves to take up the space. But when you put it in the cylinder it sat right on top of the plug. It almost looked like someone was trying to sneak a peak at ya from over the couch in the living room and all ya see is the top of their head and a pair of eyes.
Missed the fact the fuse box on the left side of the drivers side has the fuel injectors. Putting in 4 new Iridium plugs, (I tested the ones I put in from the get go with a multi meter and I assume during the misfiring it nuked the plugs because when I touched the multi meter to the 2 ends of the rod going through the plug it went nuts.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
- Update for ya'll if you were even curious
Fixed for now..

///=========\\\

Solved(Least this aspect):
Car initially began running rough, check engine light came on, normal driving conditions, going maybe...30mph?
initial thought (Oh shit transmission) -- Reminder, check fluid level *was low?(Why was it low? I had a transmission flush 2 months ago...grr)

-----=====================-----

Have not played with brakes (its the weekend. my luck ill break something and be screwed. For some reason...Which I do not understand fully...which may just be me being hopeful..
I thought I was going to need to bleed the brakes because I replaced the left rear brake caliper (Which was under warranty) in hopes that pit-man arm(or whatever you wanna call the arm that releases the park brake cable) would move freely if when installed I make sure that everything is moving freely and properly lubricated, check the (bracket? I am not sure what exactly to call it. Kinda looks like a "Y" with two cables coming out of it which is located in the car in between the front seats under the center console and everything else. Don't stop until you see the body of the car pretty much. Will get new caliper and see if I can get park bark to hold. If not figure out which cable of the two is not working (stretched) and figure out how to make sure the brakes are "braking" evenly on both sides in the rear. (after the park brake is pulled and released I mean)

#####

Took 4 different coils before FINALLY getting correct part!! Check your stuff before installing !! Specifically the shaft of the coil. They are going to look close. They are not. At the top of the boot where the rubber gasket seats into the head on one side of the coil (on the top, the rubber part) there is a small triangle. Just 1. Probably about the size of a nail head. YOU MUST HAVE THIS!!! I I TRIED 3 OTHER COILS!

They just sit on the top and kinda bob there.. Almost looks like 4 kids in a living room staring at you over the couch and you see the top of three heads and one kid is just staring at you with its head out in the open just starin you down wondering how your day is.

#####

Trouble code po303 (or is it 330)? anyway its #3 cylinder misfire
swapped coil with coil in position 2, misfire moved, did same with coil # 4.misfire moved again with the movement of the coil
I have been wanting to replace the plugs anyway. (car has 199678 mi)
Replaced 4 x iridium plugs to see if the misfire was resolved.
Light was back on cylinder 3.
Initial thought "Replace #3 ignition coil"
Replaced coil. Problem remained.
  • Confirm spark (CONFIRMED)
  • Check ignition pulse with noide light (confirmed, COIL # 2! (Not 3), Check engine light was on for "random multiple misfire as well. I ASSUMED it was the first code I saw (Ignition coil 3 misfire)
-Replaced coil with CORRECT coil
Vehicle did not start initially, Had to cycle key, crank a couple times. I did not just HOLD the key cranking cause I was afraid I was going to kill the battery and I only had a trickle charger at my friends work so that would be charging over night.
So I clicked the key, physically tried to start it a couple times. I did try pumping the gas. But its fly by wire and I cant remember if that does anything at all other than work out your leg or not. but cycling the key cranking, pumping the gas (all of twice beore I said "wait..Does this do anything")

-----=====================-----

working coil ended up being:
NGK "U52528"

stock # 488772
Ignition Coil

sprayed "PB Blaster" on just about ANYTHING I may need to touch again under the hood.
4 x Autolight Iridium XP5702(I know. Its criminal to used those..I am replacing them Monday! I needed SOMETHING to stick in the damn hole to get it started to confirm which coil it was (if it even WAS a coil)
1 x 492000 WIX air filter
Cleaned Throttle Body (Did not have compressed air to spray out excess fluid, sprayed Mass air flow sensor cleaner on tooth brush, cleaned all pivots and resting places where carbon could build up, wiped out with clean dish rag)
Cleaned Mass Air Flow Sensor (Sprayed with Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner, Did not touch the element)

-----=====================-----
Check engine light is off
HOWEVER!
The computer appears to have pending misfire codes (A shit ton of em. like 4 )
My blue tooth ODB II port comes in the mail tomorrow so I can hook up the ODB II scanner I made using python. so ill get it running on a data stream to get a better idea why
I didnt check with the scan tool I had cause I was borrowing it and the person was really high on their own farts about their generic code reader so they didnt let me play with it more than to check the light.

**
But today. FIXED!
Coils I tried that KINDA look right
Delphi (Not even close, the shaft is totally wrong)

**

If this helped...GOOD! If not and this sounds like your issue, or even if you wanna just talk car. feel free.Drop me a line. I am always curious to learn.

Be well all!
Duncan McInnes
 
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