[voiddweller]

My A/C is making a 'whooping' sound' so I took it to the local Acura Service Center. They confirmed that it's low on Freon and the noise is emanating from the expansion valve. They quoted $1600 to replace the line and expansion valve. The explanation for the leak was that the OEM aluminum line was deformed where it mates with the valve and o-ring.

To provide some background, they replaced the Schrader valves in July 2015 when the air conditioning first started leaking. The symptoms manifested as warm air from driver's side and cold air from the passenger side. They use NAPA valves (since Honda doesn't sell just the valves and o-rings) and mentioned that they might start leaking again.

For today's visit, the Tech test fitted some new NAPA valves and said that it was still leaking (just not as much) and recommended, at a minimum, replacing the line. It's $300 for the part and $500 in labor. They also charged an $80 diagnostic fee for today's visit but would deduct it from the total bill if they do the work.

Has anyone encountered this issue and come up with a fix that doesn't include replacing the line? If not, does it make sense to replace the expansion valve if it only makes noise when the Freon is low?

 

[Nick_CL9]

My A/C is making a 'whooping' sound' so I took it to the local Acura Service Center. They confirmed that it's low on Freon and the noise is emanating from the expansion valve. They quoted $1600 to replace the line and expansion valve. The explanation for the leak was that the OEM aluminum line was deformed where it mates with the valve and o-ring.

To provide some background, they replaced the Schrader valves in July 2015 when the air conditioning first started leaking. The symptoms manifested as warm air from driver's side and cold air from the passenger side. They use NAPA valves (since Honda doesn't sell just the valves and o-rings) and mentioned that they might start leaking again.

For today's visit, the Tech test fitted some new NAPA valves and said that it was still leaking (just not as much) and recommended, at a minimum, replacing the line. It's $300 for the part and $500 in labor. They also charged an $80 diagnostic fee for today's visit but would deduct it from the total bill if they do the work.

Has anyone encountered this issue and come up with a fix that doesn't include replacing the line? If not, does it make sense to replace the expansion valve if it only makes noise when the Freon is low?

Honestly, unless the expansion valve is being problematic and causing the system to not function properly there is no reason to replace it. It is not an easy job to replace it either by any means. I've worked on Acura's in the past and now Honda's professionally and have replaced maybe 5 expansion valves my whole career, and that was only because of an ac bomb each of those times... If anything I would say a good starting point would be to replace the lines with the schrader valves.

 

[voiddweller]

Thank you. I was thinking the same thing. Should I replace the receiver/dryer when doing the line?

 

[voiddweller]

I've been crazy busy so I decided to get a second opinion at a local shop that I trust.

The Tech noticed that the driver's side was warm again and he tested the system. No leaks where found and the pressures wetters good. He did more digging. What he said he found was a faulty blend mechanism.

He replaced it and the system is working fine for now.

 

[Nick_CL9]

I've been crazy busy so I decided to get a second opinion at a local shop that I trust.

The Tech noticed that the driver's side was warm again and he tested the system. No leaks where found and the pressures wetters good. He did more digging. What he said he found was a faulty blend mechanism.

He replaced it and the system is working fine for now.

Glad to hear its working! And as for replacing the receiver drier, I never do unless its an ac bomb or I am putting an aftermarket compressor on, and thats only because they make you put it on in order to have a warranty haha

 

[voiddweller]

It looks like the "whooping' sound is back. The AC is still cold, but the sound is back after driving the car for more than 20 minutes with the AC on and the temperature set to 72 degrees. When it's set to 'Low' it takes a lot longer to start happening. I'm going to take it back to the shop to see what they have to say.