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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I have a 12 inch sealed sub and an amp which I want to have installed on my 2010 TSX 4cyl Canadian base model. What I would like is to have a quick option to have the OEM sub functional when required.

1. When I am in need of trunk space, I would remove the sealed sub but have the oem sub functional.

2. When the sealed sub is in the trunk, the oem sub is disconnected.

I went to two shops. Both shops indicated that they will use a LOC but would have the oem sub functional with the aftermarket sub.

Shop 1 tells me that he will take the signal from the two rear speakers and not tap into the oem sub speaker cable leading to the oem sub.

Shop 2 tells me that he will just tap into oem sub speaker cable.

In both shops, they will maintain the oem sub functional with the after market sub.

Which way should I go? Is there there some EQ on the OEM sub, thus driving that signal over to the aftermarket sub amp will not give me the lower frequency that the OEM sub can't handle?

Does the two rear speakers (left & right), have the full range signal?

Also, what do you think of having the OEM sub functional with the after market sub?

I was originally thinking of just putting some sort of a speaker switch off the sub speaker cable from the oem sub amp. When I remove the aftermarket sub, I would manually push the speaker switch button to route the signal back to the OEM sub.

However, both shops are indicating that it's best to just keep the oem sub functional along with the aftermarket sub.

Thank You.
 

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Personally I would turn off the factory sub when you have 12 running.

I have not had the time yet to test what signals are being passed to the factory sub and rears, but I would assume the sub is being fed 90-80Hz and below and likely the rears are getting a full range or 80-90hHz and above.

I am eventually going to install a 10" sealed in a custom made fiberglass box - but again I just have not had the time to do it :(
 

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Ive done this several times. I hook the LOC to the sub that way you can fine tune it from your dash radio unit. I always have to turn the amp down real low so the bass doesnt drown out the highs. Never had an issue with both factory and aftermarket sub running at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
After looking up what LOC I should be getting, I decided to order the audiocontrol LC2i.

Two Channel Line Out Converter with AccuBASS(tm) and Subwoofer Control - LC2i

As per the specs, this has what they call "AccuBass processing" which is to deal with bass roll-off introduced by the oem EQ to limit bass that cannot be handled by the OEM sub.

From your responses, I think it's worth a try to just tap into the OEM bass signal and see how it sounds.

Anyone here have any experience with the Audiocontrol LC2i?

Thank You.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Install done and a new sub!!!

Well, install was done a couple of weeks ago. Ended up just pulling the signals from the rear speakers onto the LC2i. Sounds good with my Infinity 12" ported. However, I was craving for improvement. Therefore, last week I ordered a JL Audio 12W6V2 D4 and it arrived two days ago. The last couple of days was spent building a sealed box based on JL recommendation. On my home theatre setup, I have the JL Fanthom F113 and this is a beast and a hell of a sub!!!! So when I decided to get a new sub for the car, it's no surprise that I decided to go with JL Audio. What another fantastic sub!!! I played Shaggy and boy oh boy, I heard things that I'ved not heard with the Infinity. This JL sub is really that good. As I was driving home today, my right foot on the gas pedal was feeling the vibration, something that I've not felt with Infinity. I must say I am very very happy with this sub. If you are in the market for sub, give JL Audio a try. You won't be disappointed.
 
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