[TSX Cman]

right now, i listen to my music at +1 bass on my stock system. i like bass, but i dont want to cause any more rattles from my music. so im on a conquest to fix this.

IF i put in a sub in the trunk, what would the sound be like if i turned the speakers to -3 bass, and the sub cranked. will i have the same amount of bass covered, plus the more intensity from the sub? or will it be weird because all the bass will come from the back.

what im getting at, idealistically, i would want all my cabin speakers to be making all the sounds except for bass, so that the door and cabin never rattle. but i want bass to be present, and good quality, so if it comes from the trunk, then will it fill up the cabin and work its way around from pounding my door panels outward?
i want tons of bass, and to lessen the strain on my door panels. will an independent bass system be sufficient enough for me to just turn all speaker bass setting to -8 or whatever?

ill try to get more specific if someone can reply that they are following me somewhat
TSX Cman

 

[MemphisRheins]

Well to Get What you want, you'd need at least the following, 1 Subwoofer, a New Amp and a Customisable E.Q. Unit, Id also heavly reccomend in anycase, that you replace all the stock speakers...

The Stock Amp is configured to play the highs from the Tweets, the Midrange from the 4 doors, and the Bass From the Rear 6x9's, once u replace the 6x9's youll notice the bass is alot higher, personally I attcually have the Bass Turned down 1, otherwise its rediculious for the people in the back expecially...

In Order to Set up the Car so you Can adjust this, youll need a new Amplifier, and a E.Q. Unit, on the E.Q. u can adjust each speaker...and from there you can Cancel out the bass to the 6x9's and the little bit that goes to the 6.5's....

There might be other ways, im not a Stereo Expert....So If anyone wants to Correct anything Ive Said, please feel free

 

[TSX Cman]

thanks for some response memphis, but i never get too far with any info still

ahem. answer me people

 

[studdly]

TSX Cman, I have your solution is Dynamat Extreeme Door Kit.
It improves your sound system clarity while cancelling and rattling
and outside noise!

http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5637 :tardsmash

 

[TSX Cman]

hmm... ive had my car into acura like 7+ times for them to redo the sound deadening materials. thats a bandage to the situation, put it in, crank up the bass and itll find its way out somehow.

we need more on the replacement, technical parts

 

[Benz]

Your door panels rattle and stuff?... wow.... I listen to my music like 6+ bass and loud, like 18-21 volume. ANd sometimes, when my friend burned me a rap CD, they put extra bass into it, so it's like almost double the bass..... and I think the stock Bass in TSX sounds pretty decent......but of course, no one minds a subwoofer.

But as to your problem, I think what Memphis said is correct, you definitly need a EQ unit if you want to cancel all the Bass in your speakers.

 

[TSX Cman]

im practically a professional with the rattles in the car. i have a cd in my car with the specific TONE OF BASS that drives the car wild. most songs have a small amount of this tone but other have only it.

the point here is, i like bass, the stock system at +6 is just weird. imagine if your system was at -6, and you had a bad ass sub woofer. WILL that sub make up for all the sound missing with the -6 setting?

maybe ill draw a picture

 

[TSX Cman]

.

 

[Doc]

This is what I did to fix my bass problems. I installed a single 12" Sub and amp in the trunk, everything else is factory. Put the bass level on the head unit to -3 and adjust the gain on the amp until the bass sounds good, not too loud, just good. Then if you really want to bang you have some head room to turn the bass up to 0 or +1 without fear of blowing interior speakers.

The only rattle that occured for me was the license plate since imports don't have bottom holes to fully secure it. I added dynamat to the back of the plate and problem solved.

Ideally replacing the Head Unit so you can manually adjust each speaker level independently would be the proper solution, but doing what I described sounds great and is the easiest way to upgrade the bass in the factory stereo.

 

[TSX Cman]

sounds like the kind of info i was after.

see i was wondering if the bass in the speakers would matter if you had a sub to make up for it. the answer is yes, if you want that intensity/quality of bass.
thanks for seeing me Doc

 

[studdly]

Doc, when you say "I added dynamat to the back of the plate and problem solved. ", do you mean you simply stuck dynamat? Is it waterproff? How does the dynamat behind the license plate handle the car wash/ and hand wash?

----------------------------------------
The only rattle that occured for me was the license plate since imports don't have bottom holes to fully secure it. I added dynamat to the back of the plate and problem solved.

Ideally replacing the Head Unit so you can manually adjust each speaker level independently would be the proper solution, but doing what I described sounds great and is the easiest way to upgrade the bass in the factory stereo.[/QUOTE]

 

[TSX Cman]

yea i noticed that part too. unless he meant that he put dynomat in the trunk layers, i think he musta just put some other kind of padding on. i fixed the trunk rattle with some foamy stuff that hardened, was too long ago

 

[Doc]

Dynamat actually sells a license plate kit. It comes with a piece of dynamat, a frame, and four small sticky foam strips to line the frame. First thing you need to do is throw away the frame, it says "I sound better, I have dynamat" it might as well say "come steal my stereo!" Anyway, the dynamat just sticks to the back of your plate, I recommend using another frame of your liking and implement the foam strips for adding cushion. The dynamat should hold up pretty good to water, you might have to change every year or two, but the whole kit is only 10 bucks.

Ideally, lining your trunk with dynamat is the best for sound deadening and increasing bass efficiency. I might do this, but only having one 12 with a modest 300 watts, I may never need to.

 

[Doc]

I am not sure if I thoroughly answered the bass question. The sub will definitely make up for the lost bass of say minus 6, but the mid range sound will suffer, the best thing to do is tune like I stated in my earlier post, making the -3 level nice bass, 0 good bass with optimal mid, and plus 2-3 just bangs.

Also using the low-pass filter on your amp will make the lo signals that would normally come through your 6x9's to be re-routed to the sub.

 

[jabberwalkey2]

proper solution

-doc

hahaa

 

[Tsx536]

TsxCman how do you intent to get the signal for the new amp you add?
Where you going to tap into the 6x9s or get the signal from the HU before the amp?

 

[TSX Cman]

hah, like i know anything about that. i actually am in the process of figuring out a plan design, then getting into that kinda stuff, which ill require other poeple's help with.
i was just thinking a single sub, amp to power it, then considering whether to tap into the 6x9 after that.

im not going too fancy, or looking for an amazing system, just want some solid base not coming out of my doors and stuff

 

[Doc]

TSX Cman, you sound just like me about a week and 1/2 ago, we both wanted the exact same thing. Have whoever installs your system tap into the 6x9's for the audio signal using a Line Output Converter, this minimizes the risk of damaging any of the existing wiring, especially on the navigation model.

May I recommend a MB Quart sub, preferably the DWF 304 (this year's new model), they provide crystal clear bass, but aren't really designed to pound like a Rockford Punch or JL.

The 12" MB has a maximum wattage of 400. Get an amp that has at least 300 watts RMS. I have my 325 watt amp tuned way down and still get a lot of bass. In my research I learned that it is better to have an amp with more power than one that is struggling to produce enough power to run the sub.

 

[virtualbong]

Tapping into the Rear 6x9s is what most people do. At least, that's what I've read so far. My question is, what is this Line Output Converter (LOC)? Is it an adapter that you use instead of soldering the wires together? I guess I'll look this up on google.

 

[virtualbong]

Ok, just did a quick search and I think I understand what's going on with this LOC now. So you do have to tap into the rear 6x9 wires and solder a separate wire to the rear wires and have that go to the LOC and then have another wire from the LOC to your amplifier.