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Discussion Starter #1
I know that this subject has been discussed several times. I recently had a good friend of mine who works at the Acura dealer install my Ingalls rear camber kit. I noticed that the car drove like the rear was sliding on ice, like others have described. I had my friend check the car over after a couple days. He said that the kit loosened up and that he had to retighten the bolts or whatever. Ok, So after a couple hours of driving the car it started to do the same thing. I asked him if it was installed properly, and he told me that he followed the directions to a "T". He did mention that on the right side of the car, he had a b!tch of a time installing the arm closest to the front, I believe.

Now, I haven't taken the car to have it fixed yet and I wanted feedback from those who installed this kit themselves. I have done all the work on my car myself, except this because I knew I would need it aligned.

Here are some pics......
This the the right rear, the arm toward the rear bumber

another shot of the rear

Heres a look at the arm closer to front of car

another shot of the oner closest to front


Please advise what I should do

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Did you get yours aligned yet?
Yeah, my friend aligned it when he first installed it and again when he had retightened the rear right arms.

But the issue still exists.... The car going around a turn feels like the back end is sliding on ice :donno:
 

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He did not install the kit correctly. I can guarantee you 100% after looking at the pictures. He installed the bushings in the wrong order. You can clearly tell from the pictures that there are gaps, there shouldn't be any, it should be a tight fit.

You don't really even need to read the instructions on the install really. They have a picture at the bottom that shows you exactly what length tube goes with what width bushing.
 

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The 4 screw(s) part of the kit have bushings in the ingalls kits which is where the bolts go through... i believe the smaller rod goes with the wider bushing, and the longer rod with the smaller bushing.... if you did install the full kit, (camber and toe) chances are all four rods are installed incorrectly.... or at least two are.

the rods will have to be removed and re-installed... and re-alignement needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all the feedback guys, I have some time to start working on making this right today. Just a moment ago I took some pictures of the driver side camber arms. Tell me if this looks wrong or not.

Rear camber driver side shots first...



Front camber driver side shots...

 

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Discussion Starter #12
OK.... So I removed the passenger side camber kit and see that it was definitely installed incorrectly as you guys mentioned. The bars were correct but the bushings were not..

What size wrench do I need to get the bushings loosened up? I don't have a wrench that size

 

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Are both the diver and passenger sides done wrong on your car?

I want to check if my installer did mine properly as well. I hear a faint clunk whenever I come to an abrupt stop and it's coming from the rear after I got my camber kit installed. However, my car's rear does not feel like it's sliding out or anything.

Is it obvious comparing them while they are still on the car that one spacer is wider then the other?

I assume the link closer to the front of the car should have the wider spacer and the link closer to the rear of the car should have the thinner spacer, am I right?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Are both the diver and passenger sides done wrong on your car?

I want to check if my installer did mine properly as well. I hear a faint clunk whenever I come to an abrupt stop and it's coming from the rear after I got my camber kit installed. However, my car's rear does not feel like it's sliding out or anything.

Is it obvious comparing them while they are still on the car that one spacer is wider then the other?

I assume the link closer to the front of the car should have the wider spacer and the link closer to the rear of the car should have the thinner spacer, am I right?
Nah, I found that it was just the passenger side that was F'd...

If you take off your wheel and get in there with a flash light you should see easily if it was installed correctly.

Yes, to answer your question... The bushings that are wider should be connected to the short tube and be closer to the front of the car.
 

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I just install the rear camber kit. I was having the same issue also. Found out that some of the bolts were loose. Make sure they are tighten to spec. That solved my problem. Loving how the wheel is sitting straight.
 

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Anyone here have an issue with the install being right, bolts tightened, but just in BAD need of an alignment (serious toe out condition basically) that the car feels like its sliding like the symptoms the OP had?

My mechanic is stating the install is right (he has even seen this thread lol, I do believe him), checked everything 10x and is insisting the car just needs an alignment badly.

Just wanted more input, thanks. As it stands he will be slowly driving the car 9 miles or so Monday to an alignment shop that works on lowered cars in NY.

Just wanted to see if anyone else had this kind of issue, I feel the anxiety rise without my car/having an issue like this :(
 

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I had no problems at all really. Well, I guess that's a lie- I had trouble removing the CAM bolt for the toe arm when replacing the OEM arm with the Ingalls. Once I did that, I adjusted the camber and toe arms to as close to oem length as possible before installation and then drove very easy to the alignment shop. I did notice while going there I had the wheel slightly cocked to the left to go straight.

Rear alignment specs after camber install and springs and shock install:

BEFORE:

Left Rear Camber:-2.4 Right Rear Camber:-2.5
Left Rear Toe: -0.37 Right Rear Toe: 0.41
Total Toe: 0.04
Thrust Angle: -0.39

AFTER:

Left Rear Camber:-1.5 Right Rear Camber:-1.5
Left Rear Toe: 0.10 Right Rear Toe: 0.10
Total Toe: 0.20
Thrust Angle: 0.00
 

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My friend did that as well (lining up the camber arms for length)..thing is, I bet he probably realized he put the wrong arm or switched up measuring the length. That might be why its so off?

I've read that a severly bad toe out condition could also cause this...but I just find it so hard to believe :(

Btw, thank you and big thanks to EuroRspec and ChrisNYcq for responding to my PM and txts.

Keep you guys updated on Monday..
 
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