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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

I know I had a post that I wasn't paying attention to and not giving good information. But here is a update.

I have a 2006 TSX 6 SPD MT. It is at 101k miles. I recently did a oil change 2 days ago and I used a Honda filter. I do not abuse my car, I don't drive for long ranges. I usually drive 35-40 miles a day. 15 miles to work, which is highway, and 20 miles to school which is highway. So I rarely drive on city, and my average mpg is 17.5

Like I said I don't abuse my car, I shift gears at 2.5 rpm. Never go above. I also changed the air filter, but I did not put a oem filter I put a aftermarket filter from autozone.

If you guys can help me, I would really appreciate it. Any questions I would answer. I always fill up my tank, and I put the most expensive gas. Which is 93.


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I've mentioned this on your other thread. Check all 4 of your brake calipers and make sure they are not seized. Seized calipers will cause more drag and make your engine work harder thus using more gas. Quick test would be to jack up the car and try spinning each wheel with your hand. There should be very little resistance.

Also with that many miles, your primary O2 sensor may be going bad causing the engine to run rich. My O2 sensor went out at 86k miles and I was getting similar gas mileage as you. Bad PCV valve will also cause decreased gas mileage
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I've mentioned this on your other thread. Check all 4 of your brake calipers and make sure they are not seized. Seized calipers will cause more drag and make your engine work harder thus using more gas. Quick test would be to jack up the car and try spinning each wheel with your hand. There should be very little resistance.

Also with that many miles, your primary O2 sensor may be going bad causing the engine to run rich. My O2 sensor went out at 86k miles and I was getting similar gas mileage as you. Bad PCV valve will also cause decreased gas mileage
How would you know your o2 sensor is bad?


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There are a lot of experienced members on the forum, so don't give up searching for items to check. I'm still getting a feel for my TSX (purchased this past July) but this may give you a baseline.

I drive about 10 miles to and from work every day and average about 23-25mpg regardless of how aggressive I drive. To give you an idea, I rarely take it above 5k and usually shift around 1.5 to 3k, depending on traffic conditions. The last two weekend trips were around 340 miles a segment with all highway driving and the best I did was 26mpg on 93 octane. This is on a car with 145k miles with all the scheduled maintenance with no CEL.

If you have an Android phone, install Torque. I use it to help with diagnostics and It's worth every penny. As mentioned in the other posts, checking the calipers is easy. PCV is also cheap and easy to replace. If you're running really rich and not getting a code, your exhaust fumes will usually be fairly strong, but you should get a code if it's reading out of range, which means the ECU can't compensate. Some cars will store the code and not display the CEL unless it's really bad. I would also check your timing.

This may not apply to you, but with the amount of miles on my car, I plan to pull off the fuel rail and get the injectors flow tested and cleaned. It usually runs around $100 for all 4 injectors. I did this on my 240SX and noticed a huge improvement.

Please post back when you've made some progress or run into a roadblock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
There are a lot of experienced members on the forum, so don't give up searching for items to check. I'm still getting a feel for my TSX (purchased this past July) but this may give you a baseline.

I drive about 10 miles to and from work every day and average about 23-25mpg regardless of how aggressive I drive. To give you an idea, I rarely take it above 5k and usually shift around 1.5 to 3k, depending on traffic conditions. The last two weekend trips were around 340 miles a segment with all highway driving and the best I did was 26mpg on 93 octane. This is on a car with 145k miles with all the scheduled maintenance with no CEL.

If you have an Android phone, install Torque. I use it to help with diagnostics and It's worth every penny. As mentioned in the other posts, checking the calipers is easy. PCV is also cheap and easy to replace. If you're running really rich and not getting a code, your exhaust fumes will usually be fairly strong, but you should get a code if it's reading out of range, which means the ECU can't compensate. Some cars will store the code and not display the CEL unless it's really bad. I would also check your timing.

This may not apply to you, but with the amount of miles on my car, I plan to pull off the fuel rail and get the injectors flow tested and cleaned. It usually runs around $100 for all 4 injectors. I did this on my 240SX and noticed a huge improvement.

Please post back when you've made some progress or run into a roadblock.
I do think my ecu can be bad because my range sometimes jumps or if not drops a lot, I tried using cruise control, and I see that it bring up my MPG right now it is at 20.0. Idk if I should continue to plan on using it, but I'm gonna screen shot this, and show it to my mechanic. I'm gonna check this out, thanks a lot man


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I do think my ecu can be bad because my range sometimes jumps or if not drops a lot, I tried using cruise control, and I see that it bring up my MPG right now it is at 20.0. Idk if I should continue to plan on using it, but I'm gonna screen shot this, and show it to my mechanic. I'm gonna check this out, thanks a lot man

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I highly doubt your ECU is bad, you would have other major issues if it was.

When you are cruising at a low RPM dont smash your foot down in a high gear, down shift and press the gas much less. You will save alot of gas that way, just because you stay below 2.5k doesnt necessarily mean its better when your accelerating.

What you could try doing is resetting the ECU, just disconnect the negative terminal on the battery for about a minute or two (youll need your radio code), this will reset the learned closed loop map.

Also what elevation do you drive/live at?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I highly doubt your ECU is bad, you would have other major issues if it was.

When you are cruising at a low RPM dont smash your foot down in a high gear, down shift and press the gas much less. You will save alot of gas that way, just because you stay below 2.5k doesnt necessarily mean its better when your accelerating.

What you could try doing is resetting the ECU, just disconnect the negative terminal on the battery for about a minute or two (youll need your radio code), this will reset the learned closed loop map.

Also what elevation do you drive/live at?
What I usually do is cruise in 6th gear, with my rpm around 3k. Also I'm kinda new to this, what do you mean by elevation? I usually drive in a straight road, not much uphill and downhill by where I'm located. If that's what you mean.


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What I usually do is cruise in 6th gear, with my rpm around 3k. Also I'm kinda new to this, what do you mean by elevation? I usually drive in a straight road, not much uphill and downhill by where I'm located. If that's what you mean.
As in if you need to speed up from 60-80 downshift to 5th first, and if your in 5th or 6th at 30mph down shift to 3rd or 4th.

How many feet above sea level are you?
 

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So it's best to cruise in high rpm? I heard if you cruise in high rpm you waste more gas. But I'll try that.

To be honest, I really don't know
No no, just to get up to a higher speed, than go back to top gear. You always want to cruise at the highest gear you can, but when you need to speed up downshift first than once your at that speed go back to your cruising gear.

Well its important, do you live on a mountain or a few thousand feet above sea level? The amount of oxygen in the air directly affects your fuel consumption. Go here: Google Maps Find Altitude

Type in your zip code and at the bottom it will tell you a number in feet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
No no, just to get up to a higher speed, than go back to top gear. You always want to cruise at the highest gear you can, but when you need to speed up downshift first than once your at that speed go back to your cruising gear.

Well its important, do you live on a mountain or a few thousand feet above sea level? The amount of oxygen in the air directly affects your fuel consumption. Go here: Google Maps Find Altitude

Type in your zip code and at the bottom it will tell you a number in feet.
Ohhhhhh okay I completely get you now, well tbh man this is my first manual car, like I driven others, but this is my first personal manual car, I only owned for a week.




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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
No no, just to get up to a higher speed, than go back to top gear. You always want to cruise at the highest gear you can, but when you need to speed up downshift first than once your at that speed go back to your cruising gear.

Well its important, do you live on a mountain or a few thousand feet above sea level? The amount of oxygen in the air directly affects your fuel consumption. Go here: Google Maps Find Altitude

Type in your zip code and at the bottom it will tell you a number in feet.
View attachment 11754 View attachment 11762


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Ohhhhhh okay I completely get you now, well tbh man this is my first manual car, like I driven others, but this is my first personal manual car, I only owned for a week.
Ok so you're close to sea level which is fine.

Things to change/check(in order of importance):
1) air filter
2) check entire intake system for blocks (leaves, animals, etc.)
3) spark plugs

I would recommend changing your spark plugs and air filter regardless of condition, its a cheap item and than we can check off that as not being the issue.
 
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