coming soonSo glad to see the updates! I was wondering if you could get us a under body shot of the exhaust, rear diff, and drive shaft set up? Or is that top secret? lol
Was installing the rear sub frame 'plug n play' as in bolt on and weld or was there some modification needed for the CL9 suspension and what not?
This would be a huge pain in the ass, considering thebTSX platform won't have the provisions for the electric motors to make sh-awd work.Superior Jamaica
These guys specialize in Honda's only it seems in Jamaica. Contact them. Join the forum and ask questions. I want to see this get off the ground!
I still strongly suggest SH-AWD. It reverts to FWD only after a certain speed is reached like the lower end AWD systems from Honda, but unlike the lower ends, FWD slip isn't needed to engage the rear diff. You can get a faster off the line time.
I think you could get by with using the K23T, SH-AWD and needed ECU's from the 1G RDX and replace the 5AT with a 6MT from a TL SH-AWD (The K23 block only bolts up to V6 trans).
Or you could use K23turbo internals in a K24a2 and keep the true VTEC cams (K23 has fake VTEC and it's only on the Intake side.) But you minus well have internals built for the K24 to keep the stroke and torque up along with a better turbo.
lol confusing, sorry.
K23aT 5AT and SH-AWD (1G RDX SH-AWD)
K23aT with swapped 4G TL 6speed and SH-AWD (1G RDX SH-AWD and 4G TL SH-AWD)
K24a2 with RDX Turbo and built internals and CR-V 5AT and VTM-4... (CR-V stuff, Boooo!)
I like the complexity of the K23 Turbo from the 1G RDX bolted to a 4G TL SH-AWD 6-Speed and the SH-AWD system from a newer Acura (MDX or TLX) because it's lighter and more efficient. You'll need to get some ECU's and harnesses working though but oh so worth it.