I thought having less than less than .5A using a 10Amp multimeter is ok for cars, seems like you only had a .2A draw shouldnt be killing your battery? Im not expert with electrical systems but i had to do a parasitic test on my other car and from all the youtube vids using a multimeter set at 10Ait shouldnt be over .5A? correct me if im wrong.My battery died after coming back from long vacation + cold weather.
I decided to do a parasitic draw test and found the car draining at 0.2A after ~30s.
Disconnected the HFL module, and did a battery upgrade, hopefully no winter downtime.
HFL has been working fine, but I rarely used it, so I decided to just disconnect it.
To get to the module, I removed the kickpanel under the gloved box, the door deal panel.
2008 Acura TSX 6 speed - 122k miles - Not sure if anyone is still on this thread, but just wanted to say thanks, as you saved me a lot of time & money. My HFL stopped working 1-2 years ago. A couple of weeks ago, I went out to start the car and it was stone dead. I had just done a routine battery replacement a few months ago, so I know it could not be that. I jumped the car and everything re-charged fine. Drove it each day for the next few days, and no issues. But then I skipped a day driving it and the next day, stone dead again. So I knew it was some type of parasitic draw, but had absolutely no idea where to even start looking for this. I turned to this forum for answers, and after reading about the HFL, I concluded that it had to be that, as nothing else was done to the car. Needless to say, that was the culprit. Unplugged it, and the car has been fine ever since. So thanks to ALL of you for 2 things: 1. Pointing me in the direction of the HFL, as I never would have even considered that, since the car ran fine without that working for the past couple of years, and 2. indicating the LOCATION of the HFL (front passenger kick panel) because, again, I would never have been able to find it.I do have issues when it is cold. I don't think more CCA will help you long term. Google online on how people do parasitic draw test.
What I did was made sure there's nothing that will drain the battery (lights, dashcam, etc) are disconnected. Make sure doors are closed too.
Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, and run a multimeter in-series / in-line. Initially it will be ~1A and drop after a while. after maybe 20 seconds, it was alternating between 0.2A (200mA) and 0mA. I disconnected the bluetooth module and redid the test again. It was alternating between 20mA and 0mA.
I don't recall mine being hot, but i may have disconnected the battery long enough for it to cool down.