I thought having less than less than .5A using a 10Amp multimeter is ok for cars, seems like you only had a .2A draw shouldnt be killing your battery? Im not expert with electrical systems but i had to do a parasitic test on my other car and from all the youtube vids using a multimeter set at 10Ait shouldnt be over .5A? correct me if im wrong.My battery died after coming back from long vacation + cold weather.
I decided to do a parasitic draw test and found the car draining at 0.2A after ~30s.
Disconnected the HFL module, and did a battery upgrade, hopefully no winter downtime.
HFL has been working fine, but I rarely used it, so I decided to just disconnect it.
To get to the module, I removed the kickpanel under the gloved box, the door deal panel.
2008 Acura TSX 6 speed - 122k miles - Not sure if anyone is still on this thread, but just wanted to say thanks, as you saved me a lot of time & money. My HFL stopped working 1-2 years ago. A couple of weeks ago, I went out to start the car and it was stone dead. I had just done a routine battery replacement a few months ago, so I know it could not be that. I jumped the car and everything re-charged fine. Drove it each day for the next few days, and no issues. But then I skipped a day driving it and the next day, stone dead again. So I knew it was some type of parasitic draw, but had absolutely no idea where to even start looking for this. I turned to this forum for answers, and after reading about the HFL, I concluded that it had to be that, as nothing else was done to the car. Needless to say, that was the culprit. Unplugged it, and the car has been fine ever since. So thanks to ALL of you for 2 things: 1. Pointing me in the direction of the HFL, as I never would have even considered that, since the car ran fine without that working for the past couple of years, and 2. indicating the LOCATION of the HFL (front passenger kick panel) because, again, I would never have been able to find it.I do have issues when it is cold. I don't think more CCA will help you long term. Google online on how people do parasitic draw test.
What I did was made sure there's nothing that will drain the battery (lights, dashcam, etc) are disconnected. Make sure doors are closed too.
Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, and run a multimeter in-series / in-line. Initially it will be ~1A and drop after a while. after maybe 20 seconds, it was alternating between 0.2A (200mA) and 0mA. I disconnected the bluetooth module and redid the test again. It was alternating between 20mA and 0mA.
I don't recall mine being hot, but i may have disconnected the battery long enough for it to cool down.
Sorry, late seeing your post, but its working with that bluetooth unplugged. Until I leave something on and it have to be jumped, its a great little car just such a small battery in it 💁I don't care for it but I'm plan on selling the car maybe the summer.YES - and there is no permanent fix for the HFL box - just disconnect the plug and move on with your life. If you gotta have it, then it's time to upgrade your radio to a new unit with CarPlay.
Regarding the car battery - it should be replaced every 3 years. We purchased our TSX new in July 2006 and are just now selling it. We've been through 5 batteries in that time and none made it past 3 years. The original was replaced by the dealership under warranty, then that one died and I got a standard replacement, then that one died and I upgraded it to a 600CCA AGM battery (that I had to remove the plastic shroud and make a custom bracket for), that one died under 3 years, now am 1.5 years into the 5th battery.
My advice is buy a good battery but not an expensive one, and don't up-size the battery. If your car is having a hard time cranking, replace the starter with a Denso brand. Our starter was struggling for awhile before it died, should have replaced it sooner. This was around 140k-150k?
Pretty sure this happens because the engine compartment is too hot and fries the battery. It's possible we've had various things stress the batteries over the years (1.5 mile commute, HFL drain, failing starter, failing alternator, failing left side radiator fan...) but I've never had this problem in another vehicle. By contrast - my '06 Magnum has the battery in the "trunk", so it stays cool year-round, and I replaced it after 7 years to upgrade to a larger size battery, and sold the old battery as fully working. My replacement battery is still going strong and may "never" need replacing. I think the only way to solve the issue would be to completely shield the battery and force some air across it somehow.
When you disconnect the Bluetooth module the amp draw will go from .2A to .02A. I believe this is where it should normally be at.I thought having less than less than .5A using a 10Amp multimeter is ok for cars, seems like you only had a .2A draw shouldnt be killing your battery? Im not expert with electrical systems but i had to do a parasitic test on my other car and from all the youtube vids using a multimeter set at 10Ait shouldnt be over .5A? correct me if im wrong.
My TSX has been dying so was planning to do the parasitic draw test to see if the HFL module is whats killing the battery over the week of not driving it