[PleasurePK]

Hello all,

I've been fighting this battery drain issue for about a month now where I have to jump the car every 2-3 days if I don't start the car. The car is a 2006 TSX with Nav.

Last week, I took the time to read the forums and read that the Bluetooth module is the culprit so I decided to take off the module and disconnect it entirely since I don't use it at all. I decided to let the car sit for 4 days and the battery still drains.

I bought a DMM to test what was draining my battery. Beforehand, I had the drivers' door open and had a block of wood + channel locks pliers + tape (couldn't find my vise grip) to clamp down the door sensor since I wanted to test the interior fuse box too. I also disconnected any wiring/charger that was connected to my aux/power outlet and turned off all switches/buttons. I started to disconnect the negative battery cable, waited 15 minutes so the car can go to sleep, and did a battery test which came up to 12.03V. I started taking out all the fuses that are in the engine bay and found that the back up, ACC 40A fuse made the DMM/battery jump from 12.03V to 12.24V. I put that fuse back in and proceeded to test the interior fuse box and found no issue. Took off the DMM from the negative cable and installed the negative cable back on. I decided to test the alternator and it came up to 14.32V which is good.

Question is, what does the back up, ACC 40A fuse connects to? I still have my stock Nav/radio in the car with no modification to it. The only recent upgrade I did was LED interior light bulbs and LED daytime running lights. I also have the Morimoto's LED foglights which I'd installed close to 2 years ago. Those are the only aftermarket items I have on the car; no aftermarket alarm or cameras.

Any help is appreciated and thanks in advance! ✌

 

[PleasurePK]

Did a series of tests within the interior starting from the DVD drive, nav/radio, sub-display clock, dome light/home link, and found that something is still draining my battery.

Decided to check the location where the amp was. I took off the compartment below the radio and noticed there was a small light bulb (that was burnt) that is used to illuminate the compartment. Took off the burnt bulb and disconnected/removed the whole amp. I unplugged the 40A fuse, checked the DMM and the amps did not jump. Maybe I found the culprit. I installed the amp, reconnected the wires, checked the DMM and it was stable.

This could mean that the little light bulb was draining my battery the whole time. While I was still inside the car, I decided to replace all the LED bulbs back to incandescent bulbs. I will update this post in/after 4 days to see if the car will start right up after sitting for 3+ days.

 

[PleasurePK]

Alright, a little update.

Lately, the car would die after 2 days of sitting without starting but the car starts up right away after sitting for 3+ days.

Checking the dashboard/center console accessories would be the best bet if anyone has this issue and already disconnected their Bluetooth module.

Dashboard/center console accessories: nav/radio, sub-display clock, preamp, compartment lights.

 

[TSX_008]

Have you investigated the positive battery cable? I had a drain issue for a long time where I would periodically get a "charging system" light. That would flash for a split second and go away and come back, disappear in winter time, etc. Eventually my battery would get weak and die, then alternator. Then vice versa for a long time. I thought the blue tooth thing was the issue. Didn't solve my problem.

Ended up being bad wiring in the battery harness. I didn't get it confirmed. I just replaced it from process of elimination and from a few reports here on the issue. I would suspect you would get a system charge light as well but this might be something you want to look at.

 

[PleasurePK]

Have you investigated the positive battery cable? I had a drain issue for a long time where I would periodically get a "charging system" light. That would flash for a split second and go away and come back, disappear in winter time, etc. Eventually my battery would get weak and die, then alternator. Then vice versa for a long time. I thought the blue tooth thing was the issue. Didn't solve my problem.

Ended up being bad wiring in the battery harness. I didn't get it confirmed. I just replaced it from process of elimination and from a few reports here on the issue. I would suspect you would get a system charge light as well but this might be something you want to look at.

Thanks for contributing!

As for my car, I didn't have any warning lights on and the positive battery cable is still in good shape (but I'll keep an eye out for that in the future.) It was something within the dashboard/center console that was draining my battery. The car starts normally as it should without any issue. 🙏

 

[colekayley]

Not really sure. If you can find the fuse and pull it you could then check your battery drain and see if that was the issue.

 

[PleasurePK]

Not really sure. If you can find the fuse and pull it you could then check your battery drain and see if that was the issue.

I was speaking in general haha. I already found the culprit and fixed the issue. Thanks

 

[vat]

I am having similiar problem i saw that same bulb burnt but i did not remove it that same 40A fuse i remove and the current normalise i will be removing that bulb and watch the vehicle for a week then update forum of the outcome.

 

[PleasurePK]

I am having similiar problem i saw that same bulb burnt but i did not remove it that same 40A fuse i remove and the current normalise i will be removing that bulb and watch the vehicle for a week then update forum of the outcome.

For me, I'd unplugged all the wirings that were connected to the radio, sub-display clock, preamp, almost everything within the center console accessories and checked all bulbs. To be honest, I would check them all if you're in the process of taking the center console out.

It could also be something as simple as the battery cables as TSX_008 had suggested if you haven't check that out.

Please update with what the 40A fuse was and if it was the culprit. Thanks

 

[cmags]

I was having the same issue. Come to find out it was the master window switch. Hope this helps someone out there. It was frustrating.

 

[PleasurePK]

I'd also read somewhere that it could possibly be the sunroof switch too if anyone having battery drain issues.

 

[shreddagorge]

Helpful thread, thanks! I've isolated the BM and center console accessories and it wasn't them. The parasite disappears when I remove the 15A "backup" fuse, which is actually the primary CAN bus controller that then splits into driver and passenger side multiplexers. At one point I saw over 4 Amps pulling from this a day after I last touched it!

From what I'm reading in the service manual the hood latch sensor needs to be disabled or the alarm system does funky things while troubleshooting (my translation ). I'm told a common problem is with power windows and seats but I verified mine are all good. In the wagon this circuit controls the power tailgate feature, so that's next on my list (when I get time).

I'm curious if anyone has had this problem and taken it to a dealership to resolve? How far over did you have to bend?

 

[Hollywood]

Could someone explain why it could be the master window switch or the moon roof switch? Aren't these supposed to be off when no key in? Thanks.

 

[Litespeed08]

A normally open switch will be OFF when not energized (not keyed) when it is working properly. When the switch sticks (no longer working properly) it will continue drawing current because it is acting like it is still keyed. In other words the coil that closes the switch isn't releasing as it should when the key is OFF. It could also be that the armature in the switch that closes the circuit to the roof or window motor has become defective. Either way those parts are all inside of the switch. Look up/Google coiled or relay switches and you'll see diagrams and explanations that will better demonstrate how these basic switches work.

 

[merlinj79]

Yeah a relay has two circuits, the control and the power circuits.

For devices which need to be off with key off, it's simpler, lighter, and cheaper to only switch the control circuit via the ignition switch. The power circuit still has a hot positive and ground and if the relay sticks it will power whatever is downstream.

 

[Tsx207]

So I am not having a good time with my car. I start to drive around and all my dashboard lights come on and then my speedometer goes to zero as well as my rpm’s. Then I start to lose power in my car and I go to pull over and it turns off by itself. I’ve already did the Bluetooth thing and that did nothing. But whenever I charge my battery is goes good for around 2 to 3 weeks and then does the same thing. Does anyone have a resolution for this!?

 

[merlinj79]

1. Charge your battery, and check it with digital tester. FLAPS will do this for you if you take the battery to them. I'm assuming your battery cables are on tight and clean.

2. Check the three ground straps in the engine bay. Make sure they are connected at both ends and not broken, corroded, or frayed. I would remove and clean the connectors which are easy to get to (two of three IIRC).

3. Check the fuse block connectors, again, tight and corrosion free. Remove and inspect the pins on all fuses and relays, clean or replace any that are corroded. Simply R&R them might solve your problem. If you have lot of corrosion on the fuse block connectors, may need to replace the entire block. May also need to remove the block, reseat and inspect the cable connectors underneath it.

4. Check the big cables to the alternator and starter (disconnect battery first!). Tight, clean, and corrosion free.

5. Check system voltage at the battery with engine off and then on.

With key off, a charged healthy battery should be real close to 13 volts or more, it can be a little lower but closer to 12.0 volts is too low.

With engine on, the alternator should bump the system voltage up, real close to 14 volts or more.

Also... the alternator will do a better job charging the battery if you drive long trips. A lot of short trips won't keep the battery charged, especially if you have any wiring issues or a weak battery.

 

[Tsx207]

1. Charge your battery, and check it with digital tester. FLAPS will do this for you if you take the battery to them. I'm assuming your battery cables are on tight and clean. 2. Check the three ground straps in the engine bay. Make sure they are connected at both ends and not broken, corroded, or frayed. I would remove and clean the connectors which are easy to get to (two of three IIRC). 3. Check the fuse block connectors, again, tight and corrosion free. Remove and inspect the pins on all fuses and relays, clean or replace any that are corroded. Simply R&R them might solve your problem. If you have lot of corrosion on the fuse block connectors, may need to replace the entire block. May also need to remove the block, reseat and inspect the cable connectors underneath it. 4. Check the big cables to the alternator and starter (disconnect battery first!). Tight, clean, and corrosion free. 5. Check system voltage at the battery with engine off and then on. With key off, a charged healthy battery should be real close to 13 volts or more, it can be a little lower but closer to 12.0 volts is too low. With engine on, the alternator should bump the system voltage up, real close to 14 volts or more. Also... the alternator will do a better job charging the battery if you drive long trips. A lot of short trips won't keep the battery charged, especially if you have any wiring issues or a weak battery.

Thanks i will check everything you just said and I’ll update you when I can