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Discussion Starter #1
Hey my 05 TSX finally needs to get a brake change all 4 rotors/pads. I was curious what is the most reliable website to order my new brakes off of?
 

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Heard rockauto is good, but I haven't bought anything from them. I have bought brake parts for my old car from Amazon.
 

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I got mine from r1 concepts, good prices and customer service...i have them on for a few years now. no problems.....
 

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Just did full brake replacement on Sat...

'06 TSX:
-4 new calipers
-4 new rotors
-4 new sets of pads
Everything with the refund of the cores came to $500.

Sourced the calipers at Advance Auto, so I could easily do the core refund.

Got Centric Premium rotors and AC Delco pads on RockAuto. $240/shipped. These pads and rotor are great. The rotors' hubs are PC'd so they don't rust. THe pads don't blow dust. Put this on all our family members vehicles.

Also got 1 container of brake fluid and a little hose to bleed the brakes. $8

All-in-all, not bad for $500.

 

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Somaek juseyo?
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After shopping around at online retailers including RockAuto, I got all four of my Raybestos discs from Amazon. One of, if not the cheapest place for what I wanted. Quick shipping too. Got the pads from a local Napa store.
 

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+1 for R1Concepts they have pretty decent prices for rotors and pads i used them havent had any issues this was 3 years ago. doing new brake setup will most likely use them again.
http://www.r1concepts.com/acura-tsx-2006-parts.aspx

Marcus @ heeltoe auto has great brakes little over my budget but maybe not yours.
http://www.heeltoeauto.com/home.php?cat=88

and then theres always Autozone which offers good warranty with purchases and core $ in return (as stated above)

**while your down there , you should replace the brake lines to SS one it will improve your braking capabilities as well. And you should get this if you have a 6MT http://www.heeltoeauto.com/fastline-performance-stainelss-braided-clutch-line-03-08-acura-tsx-manual-transmission-cl9-2003-2008-acura-tsx-jdm-honda-accord-cl7-cl9-cl.tsx.html?productid=63466 since you have to bleed the brakes if you change the lines, might as well do it all. (just my suggestion)
 

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Tirerack, stoptech rear rotors, drilled, oem size $61/pc + shipping, awaiting install, cannot comment as-of-yet....
Acc-Man
 

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Because... race car!!!
Not quite.... But for looks, better performance in rain, and for pretty much the same price as your normalo brakes, would it be wrong to go this route?? Man do you think before you write?? You've been on this Forum for half the time I have, with double the amount of replies/posts, in that short time... I bet if I went and checked half the stuff you wrote, I'd have a bad case of eye cancer.... Grow TF up!!!
Out
Acc-Man
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Is it just me or... I go to rock auto and find the centric rotors no slots just plain and just see the front pair no rear? so do I have to get to different brands the centric ones in the front and whatever brand in rear? no same brands lol.... help me out guys no other websites?
 

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Not quite.... But for looks, better performance in rain, and for pretty much the same price as your normalo brakes, would it be wrong to go this route?? Man do you think before you write?? You've been on this Forum for half the time I have, with double the amount of replies/posts, in that short time... I bet if I went and checked half the stuff you wrote, I'd have a bad case of eye cancer.... Grow TF up!!!
Out
Acc-Man
Better in rain? Eh that's debatable. My braking remains exactly the same rain or shine. Having anything other than blank rotors isn't worth the increased pad wear.
 

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Not quite.... But for looks, better performance in rain, and for pretty much the same price as your normalo brakes, would it be wrong to go this route??
Completely uneducated comment... slotted rotors are for pad-gases to be released so they don't create a cushion of air between the pad and rotor... and yes, slotted rotors can create durability/reliability issues (ie: warped rotors). Really only worth it for someone who tracks their car all the time.

Is it just me or... I go to rock auto and find the centric rotors no slots just plain and just see the front pair no rear? so do I have to get to different brands the centric ones in the front and whatever brand in rear? no same brands lol.... help me out guys no other websites?
Here's the part numbers you want on RockAuto
Front
12040046 - 2 of them
17D787C - 1 of them

Rear
12040055 - 2 of them
17D537C - 1 of them

Better in rain? Eh that's debatable. My braking remains exactly the same rain or shine. Having anything other than blank rotors isn't worth the increased pad wear.
Not debatable, that's a flat out false statement regarding driving in the rain.

True statement regarding slotted rotors and pad wear, not woth it.
 

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Another vote for Rockauto, have used 'em for a long time with no issues. Prices and selection are outstanding.

Get:

CENTRIC Part # 30907870 StopTech Street Performance Brake Pads; Para-Aramid (fronts)

CENTRIC Part # 30905370 StopTech Street Performance Brake Pads; Para-Aramid (rear)

CENTRIC Part # 12140055 C-Tek Standard Rotor (rear)

CENTRIC Part # 12140046 C-Tek Standard Rotor (front)

Total: $145 + shipping
 

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Hey, I'm not trying to pick a fight, nor to make friends, BUT i NEVER mentioned slotted Rotors, moreso, if read properly, drilled. And i will stick to my statement: The water that forms a film on a cold rotor, seeps through these said drilled (holes) dissipates faster, giving a better braking capability. Would you not agree, that there seem to be alot of idiots on the road, that when the rain, or snow for that matter, comes down 'heavier' than usual, tend to be alot more ready to do stupid braking manouvers, and that is when you would need this.. not first after a few turns of the tire/wheel/rotor (which could mean a longer brake distance, abs reaction not included there within. Water, as with most liquids, cannot be compressed, it would have to be either moved or heated away first), to achieve the best/strongest braking?? I am not saying blanks are bad, and with "normalo" i meant from the optics, not saying drilled are/were superior... You can still have a sturdy brake rotor, with the (in MY sight/opinion) cool optics for more or less the same money.
Acc-Man
 

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Excuse me... drilled rotors...

Again, absolutely false that it they "aid" braking in snow/rain conditions... they are only for pad-gases to be released so they don't create a cushion of air between the pad and rotor... I think you're just experiencing a placebo effect from your imagination.

Even more-so, drilled rotors are terrible for everday driving. Reduces reliability/durability of the rotor over time. Even easier to warp the rotors . Even more harsh on pad wear. Should only be used on track-used vehicles. With quality slotted and/or drilled rotors... and those cost a great deal more than blank rotors... they even crack where they are drilled

Also, what is "nomarlo"? Is that ghetto slang for the word: normal?
 

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Hey, I'm not trying to pick a fight, nor to make friends, BUT i NEVER mentioned slotted Rotors, moreso, if read properly, drilled. And i will stick to my statement: The water that forms a film on a cold rotor, seeps through these said drilled (holes) dissipates faster, giving a better braking capability. Would you not agree, that there seem to be alot of idiots on the road, that when the rain, or snow for that matter, comes down 'heavier' than usual, tend to be alot more ready to do stupid braking manouvers, and that is when you would need this.. not first after a few turns of the tire/wheel/rotor (which could mean a longer brake distance, abs reaction not included there within. Water, as with most liquids, cannot be compressed, it would have to be either moved or heated away first), to achieve the best/strongest braking?? I am not saying blanks are bad, and with "normalo" i meant from the optics, not saying drilled are/were superior... You can still have a sturdy brake rotor, with the (in MY sight/opinion) cool optics for more or less the same money.
Acc-Man
Have to agree. I put Cross drilled on my 2K1 Maxima, with same Mfr. pad. Noticed in the rain quicker bite to the rotor.
Have not yet put CD on the TSX yet, but looking.
 

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Have to agree. I put Cross drilled on my 2K1 Maxima, with same Mfr. pad. Noticed in the rain quicker bite to the rotor.
Have not yet put CD on the TSX yet, but looking.


How niave people are is astonishing...
 

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Excuse me... drilled rotors...

Again, absolutely false that it they "aid" braking in snow/rain conditions... they are only for pad-gases to be released so they don't create a cushion of air between the pad and rotor... I think you're just experiencing a placebo effect from your imagination.

Even more-so, drilled rotors are terrible for everday driving. Reduces reliability/durability of the rotor over time. Even easier to warp the rotors . Even more harsh on pad wear. Should only be used on track-used vehicles. With quality slotted and/or drilled rotors... and those cost a great deal more than blank rotors... they even crack where they are drilled

Also, what is "nomarlo"? Is that ghetto slang for the word: normal?

Myth that rotors "Warp". The only true way to warp a rotor is heat is up until it is almost glowing, then run it through a puddle of cold water, while having your lug nuts at different torque settings.

Rotors will judder because the pads deposit dust and it heats up and after a while will adhere to the rotor, and cause the surface to become uneven.

Drilled rotors are no more harsh on pads for wear, and most pads do not gas out like the ones from the 80's.

So how is a drilled rotor only for the harsh braking on a track, but "Reduces reliability/durability of the rotor over time" How does it do that, but can withstand a track day?

Have never cracked a rotor that was drilled either.

just wondering.
 
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