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I just got my car back from the dealership after having the clutch replaced. It only had 110,000 km on the odometer, but a worn throw-out/release bearing was the primary reason for replacing the entire clutch assembly, not a worn clutch disk.

Anyway, I was hoping to get the opinion of fellow 6MT-drivers on some of my pre- and post-new-clutch observations.

1. The pedal effort is markedly lighter with the new clutch. It wasn't particularly heavy with the old clutch anyway, so now it's really quite light--perhaps too light. Is this expected?

2. The clutch friction (engagement) point is now higher up in the pedal travel. Previously, engagement would occur close to the floor, at about 10-20% of the pedal travel. It is now closer to the middle, perhaps 40-50% of the travel. Is this within normal limits?

3. Now, regarding a more subjective aspect...I was a bit disappointed at how the clutch replacement did not improve what I've always felt was vague and unforgiving clutch engagement in my TSX--something I chalked up to the worn throwout bearing. That is to say, when taking off from a standstill, the point at which the clutch engages is not obvious (more of a friction "range" versus a "point"). In contrast to the other manual transmission cars I've driven in the past, getting the car to begin moving by using only the clutch (i.e., no throttle) is nearly impossible without stalling. Consequently, I typically must initiate throttle application even before the car is really moving.

Members, please weigh in. Any insight is much appreciated!
 

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is this the end of the story? this is a good write up, for me at least. I test drove a 08 with 113k from Carmax, no idea if the clutch is original or not. I felt the same that the engagement point is more of a range than point. is this consider normal?
 

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Holy thread revival, Batman!

Do some research... The "vague" feeling is due to a damper in the CMC and check valve in the CSC. Alternative (Aftermarket or OEM Honda) parts can be installed to give a direct pedal feel.
 

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Holy thread revival, Batman!

Do some research... The "vague" feeling is due to a damper in the CMC and check valve in the CSC. Alternative (Aftermarket or OEM Honda) parts can be installed to give a direct pedal feel.
will do search but since im a noob I don't even know what to look for... do you mean that the damper maybe be bad since mentioned OEM honda parts can be used?
 

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will do search but since im a noob I don't even know what to look for... do you mean that the damper maybe be bad since mentioned OEM honda parts can be used?
No the damper and check valve are likely not bad, but since the purpose of them being there is to make clutch operation smoother (for regular/slow shifts), for someone trying to shift quickly this results in the vague feeling described. The damper and check valve slow the movement of the fluid through the system, so there is more of a "time" of engagement, rather than "location" of engagement on the pedal. There are OEM parts for another vehicle that fits ours, that do not have the dampers or check valves. Installing them will give you direct pedal control to your clutch. I've done it, and would never go back.
 

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No the damper and check valve are likely not bad, but since the purpose of them being there is to make clutch operation smoother (for regular/slow shifts), for someone trying to shift quickly this results in the vague feeling described. The damper and check valve slow the movement of the fluid through the system, so there is more of a "time" of engagement, rather than "location" of engagement on the pedal. There are OEM parts for another vehicle that fits ours, that do not have the dampers or check valves. Installing them will give you direct pedal control to your clutch. I've done it, and would never go back.
Awesome, do you have any recommendations on the OEM parts? and is there youtube tutorial on this?
 

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Awesome, do you have any recommendations on the OEM parts? and is there youtube tutorial on this?
Yeah go OEM Honda EM2 for the master and stick with OEM for the slave. I've run the cheap exedy version of the slave, the Ktuned master and slave, and it's all trash compared to OEM. You can go with a braided line too if you like. Just make sure you bleed it correctly, that's something I see alot of guys messing up.
 

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