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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2010 Acura TSX with 140,000 miles. The problem just recently happened, it randomly turns off while driving. The steering get hard to turn. Everything checks out. If anyone has had this problem before maybe you can help.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sounds like there’s an electrical issue. I’d get the alternator and battery tested first.
That's the other thing. I took it in to test both. But the tester couldn't read the battery or alternator. I took it to 2 different places and they both said the same thing. But the battery works fine. They tested the battery with a volt meter.

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May be the alternator is beginning to fail then. It would explain the intermittent heavy steering anyway. See if you can get that load tested somewhere and then report back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
May be the alternator is beginning to fail then. It would explain the intermittent heavy steering anyway. See if you can get that load tested somewhere and then report back.
Thanks appreciate the input, I'll get that checked out and report back.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It sounds like your chassis ground is loose and not completing a reliable circuit.
That's what I thought too, but i checked all points of ground and they all seem fine. I've been driving the car all this week and it's driving with no problems. I'll report back when it acts up again.

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No offense to the other suggestions because they have some value, but you should seriously do some accurate diagnostic yourself or take it to someone who is qualified and reputable.

The steering will only get stiff if the power steering unit loses power (if it’s electric), or the engine shuts off (if it’s hydraulic).

There are a handful of systems/components that the car uses to function like normal. This hardware is controlled by complex and integrated software which can be difficult to understand for someone who is not well versed in modern autos. What’s savvy about this software/hardware combination is that these systems have the ability to self test/diagnose continuously as the vehicle is operated.

If you are going to attempt to diag/repair yourself, then you need more information to guide you. Chances are that there are faults stored in the vehicle’s modules which will help point you in the right direction.

If there are no stored faults then you will need to observe all the vital run-ability functions of the engine in order to properly diagnose. (Loss of fuel delivery, B+/ground to main fuse block/engine controller, crank/cam signal to ECM, ignition delivery, compression, engine’s ability to freely revolve/turn over….these are just a few things off the top of my head. You could have ECM/control module failure. Modern Honda/Acura vehicles all have integrated module communication that functions via CAN/multiplexing. There could be intermittent failure to communicate vital operating data to/from the ECM/PCM causing a shut down.
If the alternator isn’t charging to the point it forces a shut down, then it should be giving you the battery charge warning light. It may not though, and if I’m fact it does happen to be the alternator then it most likely has a voltage regulating problem.

Testing the alternator/generator’s function on a modern Honda/Acura is not as simple as using a voltmeter. You really need to access live data from the PCM. Nowadays they function based on something they call “electric load detection” which is typically a component of the underhood fuse block which the PCM uses to demand charging voltage/current via duty cycling the generator’s control field.

All that being said, find a technician/repair center that has the ability to scan all the vehicle’s modules the same way they would do at the Acura/Honda dealership. If that doesn’t help to direct you, then you will need to make some notes regarding what is happening before/during/after the issue presents itself, and use these clues to narrow down point of failure. A combination of normal driving/operation and in depth detective work should allow you to determine some of the parameters/characteristics of what’s going on when it decides to shut down (intermittently seizing accessory such as ac pump could be contributing to/causing this stalling issue).

good luck.

ps if you are anywhere near Raleigh/Fayetteville, NC then I can probably help you figure it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
No offense to the other suggestions because they have some value, but you should seriously do some accurate diagnostic yourself or take it to someone who is qualified and reputable.

The steering will only get stiff if the power steering unit loses power (if it’s electric), or the engine shuts off (if it’s hydraulic).

There are a handful of systems/components that the car uses to function like normal. This hardware is controlled by complex and integrated software which can be difficult to understand for someone who is not well versed in modern autos. What’s savvy about this software/hardware combination is that these systems have the ability to self test/diagnose continuously as the vehicle is operated.

If you are going to attempt to diag/repair yourself, then you need more information to guide you. Chances are that there are faults stored in the vehicle’s modules which will help point you in the right direction.

If there are no stored faults then you will need to observe all the vital run-ability functions of the engine in order to properly diagnose. (Loss of fuel delivery, B+/ground to main fuse block/engine controller, crank/cam signal to ECM, ignition delivery, compression, engine’s ability to freely revolve/turn over….these are just a few things off the top of my head. You could have ECM/control module failure. Modern Honda/Acura vehicles all have integrated module communication that functions via CAN/multiplexing. There could be intermittent failure to communicate vital operating data to/from the ECM/PCM causing a shut down.
If the alternator isn’t charging to the point it forces a shut down, then it should be giving you the battery charge warning light. It may not though, and if I’m fact it does happen to be the alternator then it most likely has a voltage regulating problem.

Testing the alternator/generator’s function on a modern Honda/Acura is not as simple as using a voltmeter. You really need to access live data from the PCM. Nowadays they function based on something they call “electric load detection” which is typically a component of the underhood fuse block which the PCM uses to demand charging voltage/current via duty cycling the generator’s control field.

All that being said, find a technician/repair center that has the ability to scan all the vehicle’s modules the same way they would do at the Acura/Honda dealership. If that doesn’t help to direct you, then you will need to make some notes regarding what is happening before/during/after the issue presents itself, and use these clues to narrow down point of failure. A combination of normal driving/operation and in depth detective work should allow you to determine some of the parameters/characteristics of what’s going on when it decides to shut down (intermittently seizing accessory such as ac pump could be contributing to/causing this stalling issue).

good luck.

ps if you are anywhere near Raleigh/Fayetteville, NC then I can probably help you figure it out.
This is very helpful in guiding me in the right direction. Thank you. Very knowledgeable and helpful.

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I have a 2010 Acura TSX with 140,000 miles. The problem just recently happened, it randomly turns off while driving. The steering get hard to turn. Everything checks out. If anyone has had this problem before maybe you can help.

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Possibly the Crankshaft position sensor, this would explain the car shutting off but not steering loss.
 

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I have a 2010 Acura TSX with 140,000 miles. The problem just recently happened, it randomly turns off while driving. The steering get hard to turn. Everything checks out. If anyone has had this problem before maybe you can help.

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk
Check the ignition switch. Ive had 2 Acuras with that same problem. Eventually it won’t start back up anymore. The dealer fixed mine both times due to recall but they were 99 & 08 TL’s.
 
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