No offense to the other suggestions because they have some value, but you should seriously do some accurate diagnostic yourself or take it to someone who is qualified and reputable.
The steering will only get stiff if the power steering unit loses power (if it’s electric), or the engine shuts off (if it’s hydraulic).
There are a handful of systems/components that the car uses to function like normal. This hardware is controlled by complex and integrated software which can be difficult to understand for someone who is not well versed in modern autos. What’s savvy about this software/hardware combination is that these systems have the ability to self test/diagnose continuously as the vehicle is operated.
If you are going to attempt to diag/repair yourself, then you need more information to guide you. Chances are that there are faults stored in the vehicle’s modules which will help point you in the right direction.
If there are no stored faults then you will need to observe all the vital run-ability functions of the engine in order to properly diagnose. (Loss of fuel delivery, B+/ground to main fuse block/engine controller, crank/cam signal to ECM, ignition delivery, compression, engine’s ability to freely revolve/turn over….these are just a few things off the top of my head. You could have ECM/control module failure. Modern Honda/Acura vehicles all have integrated module communication that functions via CAN/multiplexing. There could be intermittent failure to communicate vital operating data to/from the ECM/PCM causing a shut down.
If the alternator isn’t charging to the point it forces a shut down, then it should be giving you the battery charge warning light. It may not though, and if I’m fact it does happen to be the alternator then it most likely has a voltage regulating problem.
Testing the alternator/generator’s function on a modern Honda/Acura is not as simple as using a voltmeter. You really need to access live data from the PCM. Nowadays they function based on something they call “electric load detection” which is typically a component of the underhood fuse block which the PCM uses to demand charging voltage/current via duty cycling the generator’s control field.
All that being said, find a technician/repair center that has the ability to scan all the vehicle’s modules the same way they would do at the Acura/Honda dealership. If that doesn’t help to direct you, then you will need to make some notes regarding what is happening before/during/after the issue presents itself, and use these clues to narrow down point of failure. A combination of normal driving/operation and in depth detective work should allow you to determine some of the parameters/characteristics of what’s going on when it decides to shut down (intermittently seizing accessory such as ac pump could be contributing to/causing this stalling issue).
good luck.
ps if you are anywhere near Raleigh/Fayetteville, NC then I can probably help you figure it out.
. Very knowledgeable and helpful.. Very knowledgeable and helpful.
