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Discussion Starter #1
if the engine is for dd(not build for boost), does the engine benefit anything when I unbolt the head & re-lube the cams with high temperature synthetic grease?
 

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Asside from this doing nothing. Why would you unbolt the head to pull cams out?

Go change the oil in the car. It will do you more good.
 

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I know.

That kind of lube is used for assembly. Its purpose is not to damage anything on initial startup. Soon after that oil circulates through the motor and takes its place.

So what Im saying is since you are driving you TSX im assuming. This would make no sense to do.
 

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Im sorry but I laughed when I saw the title. Like poste above, Oil circulates throughout the block and head. Cams stay saturated as long as the engine is running. If its just a DD, dont worry about the engine other than regular maintnance.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
regular maintenance never tells people to change the power steering fluid. does it mean the fluid can last/function forever?

I just can't 100% rely on the regular maintenance. for myself, I really want to keep the car in top condition, and that's why I thought about the cleaning/re-lubing the head, but thanks for the headsup, it looks like its not necessary for re-lube. to be honest, I was thinking that with removing the head, I could use some kind of polishing tool to sand whatever intake/exhaust ports while im already at it, clean up/re-lube. but as of right now, i'll just search more info about port & polish only
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have to say that I'm not a licensed auto mechanic, and that's why I have quite a few of strange ideas & questions. Appreciate for educating btw.

just a few more questions: when the car is reving high on 45 degree uphill incline, does it mean the rear camshaft would get more oil lubricant than the front camshaft due to gravity? do the camshafts actually rotating at high speed? do they consume heat? do the cams wear/worn? are they able to last 20 years plus(without shape change)? when we make a fast 60mph turn (270R clockwise), does the gravity push most of the engine oil to the left side?
 

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As one of the high-mileage owners here (183K miles), mines in top shape. The power steering fluid only truly needs to be changed if it starts to make a whirring sound. Not that changing it before then is bad. Also, don't do any unecessary work. Sanding/Polishing the ports is a waste of time and likely to f-up the engine. Yes gravity does affect the oil but, in a DD, you're not going to pull enough G's to affect the engine. On the other hand, you probably wont be sitting on a hill long enough for the cam to not get any oil.
This car is durable, yes it will last you 20 years on mostly stock parts. The cams should be fine. Normal wear and tear are a given (water pump, fluid changes, etc.).

And please, take no offense at this but, if you are not familiar with pulling maintnance or modding cars, don't do it alone or without asking questions. A lot of people will mess up their car by doing things they know nothing, or little to nothing, about.

PS. Honest opinion, if you want to have the car last you 20 years in top shape, stick regular maintnance. It'll get you farther than modding or tweaking.
 

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I have to say that I'm not a licensed auto mechanic, and that's why I have quite a few of strange ideas & questions. Appreciate for educating btw.

just a few more questions: when the car is reving high on 45 degree uphill incline, does it mean the rear camshaft would get more oil lubricant than the front camshaft due to gravity? do the camshafts actually rotating at high speed? do they consume heat? do the cams wear/worn? are they able to last 20 years plus(without shape change)? when we make a fast 60mph turn (270R clockwise), does the gravity push most of the engine oil to the left side?
On an incline or decline while the engine is running internal lubrication will stay pretty much the same as long as there is the recommended amount of oil in the engine. If you are low on oil then you can run into problems on steep hills or on hard turns.

With proper oil and filter change intervals you help lower wear and tear on the engine. Yes over time the internals wear but its negligible if you just take care of the car.

Look at your manual and follow the recommended maintenance and you will be fine.

Ok now you can breath.


:fro:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
learn something new everyday, thanks ethankz750

regarding water pump: I had an e36 2.5 inline six 17 years ago. It was serviced by dealership. Regular maintenance were done regularly. engine oil, sparkplugs, tranny oil, antifreeze, air filter, pads, rotors, oxygen sensors, balljoints...etc, all serviced by dealership. however, one day I was driving on the highway. all the sudden I see the temperature guage pointing to the red, then I pulled over on the side, white smokes coming out from the hood. That was pretty scary experience, no choice but called a tow truck. eventually they said the water pump was done.

now, I really want to know if there's something I can do to maintain the waterpump(except changing the coolant more often)? or is there any symptoms which tell us that the waterpump is about to go?
 

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Rise in temp and leaking. How many mile do you have?
 

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I meant on the TSX
 

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I would just keep an eye on everything for now. Pull some regular maintenance on it. You haven't even broke that Honda engine in yet:laugh: Trust me, she'll run like a top, even when you reach 158,000.
 

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I am a licensed tech.
Been working on cars 6 days a week for years.

Answer me this: What exactly do you think this lube is going to do for you?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
np, Grounded:

I thought the hi-temp synthetic grease would end up like the grease in the sliding pins, they sacrificed themselves due to the heat & mileage. However, after asking & asking questions in the forum, now I know that there's no need to re-lube the camshafts.

Since you are licensed, may I ask how to maintain the water pump in top condition (except changing with new coolant more often)?

and, what kind of symptoms could tell us that the water pump is about to go?

thanks
 

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There is no real way to prevent a water pump from ever going bad. There will come a time or a recommended mileage to replace one however.

In the meantime there are things you can do to keep everything clean inside of the cooling parts of the engine, cooling jackets in the head and block, heater core, radiator.
Working in a dealership we recommend for more reasons then just making money for you to change your coolant at given miles or time frames
2-3 years or 30-50k miles. Its upto you.

Keep in mind. Its not so much the coolant that will be bad after time. It will be the deposits from the water. The main thing that causes water pumps to go bad is erosion. It will cause the seals in them to go bad and you will see them leak. Or it will cause bearings to go bad and sometimes sieze and snap the impeller off inside the pump and become worthless and a bottleneck for heat.

If you want to see something interesting your coolant after time will hold a charge. Grab a multimeter put the ground to ground and stick the positive into the coolant and only let it touch the coolant. High mile cars and sometimes low will produce a slight charge.


When you go to the dealerships and they recommend different flushs and services. Dont feel like there digging in your pockets. They all have different purposes but the main purpose is to protect your investment which your vehicle is.
 
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