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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What's up guys I'm new here, I have a 2004 tsx, I've changed my master cylinder 2x and yesterday just found out that my new master cylinder is leaking from the bottom bolt... Having that in mine the first master cylinder actually blew out my bolt and broke my seal! Because of this i now can't use my 2nd gear I have to shift from 1st to 3rd because it grinds going into 2nd... Anyways replaced the cmc and everything's been fine however I still can't use my 2nd gear like that fast forward to now ive been having trouble with shifting smooth like when I put it in reverse sometime the gears grind and sometime it's hard for it to accept 4 and 5th gear... I've replaced my reverse switch on the car and master cylinder.. Anyone have any ideas as to what the underlying issue could be?
 

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check your clutch pedal. they crack and flex, meaning you can't fully depress the clutch even when your foot is on the floor. common issue on the TSX. Do you hear any creaking when you press in the clutch?

 

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First thing that comes to mind reading your symptoms is air in the clutch line or really old waterlogged clutch fluid. But assuming you have flushed and bled the system properly, also check the slave cylinder pushrod and clutch fork to ensure all those moving/contact points are well greased . And as evil804 said, check your clutch pedal bracket.
 

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Sounds like an engagement issue. Gravity bleed and then the pedal should be firm. From there have someone push the clutch pedal in and watch the slave - see if it pushes the clutch fork all the way. Then yes check the clutch pedal to see if it's broken - last thing is to adjust the MC to the clutch pedal. You might have it adjusted in too far so when the clutch pedal bottoms out there is still more stroke left in the MC to be used, thus causing clutch engagement/disengagement issues.

For reverse grinds - always go 1st gear then to reverse - they are on the same shaft so if you go 1st- Reverse it'll be smooth with no grinding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Appreciate the feedback ? so my boy and I took the MC out and opened it up to find the seal burst open and the metal plate writhing the MC had a hairline crack down the middle.. Yes I did hear a little creaking etc when using the clutch! I ended up using the casing from my latest CMC(Exedy) and i bought an aftermarket CMC and used the beefier back plate, making my own upgraded CMC.. Long story short i got her back on the road next day I get no grind going into reverse and 1st 3rd 4th 5th and 6th are smooth but my 2nd gear grinds a little but thats due to my MC going out the first time blew the bolt right off and I might have stripped my 2nd gear synchro .... So i either need do a flush on my trans see how much shavings are in there and decide to get another trans when I install my new clutch kit this spring! My bad for the long comment but that's about where I'm at as of now... Thanks again!!!!
 

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Yeah, you most likely rounded off the dogs on 2nd gear. I’ve rebuilt one trans with the same issue. If you pull the trans apart, you can do 1st and 2nd gears and synchros pretty easily without having to pull all the shafts apart. The gears they mesh with are pressed on but those just slip on and off.

It would be a good time to throw an LSD in there as well. You’ll have to re-shim the case for the diff carrier bearings if you do that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah, you most likely rounded off the dogs on 2nd gear. I’ve rebuilt one trans with the same issue. If you pull the trans apart, you can do 1st and 2nd gears and synchros pretty easily without having to pull all the shafts apart. The gears they mesh with are pressed on but those just slip on and off.

It would be a good time to throw an LSD in there as well. You’ll have to re-shim the case for the diff carrier bearings if you do that.
Thanks man, yeah I was thinking if I had to get a trans I'd try doing the type r trans since it has the lsd too... Might as well go all out.. But then the 06+ si have lsd's too and that should bolt right up I believe... But we'll see
 

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You will need to stick to a case that came from a TSX or a EDM/JDM accord. The Euro-R trans is the best option for bolt in. It has shorter 2-6th gears, and LSD. They can be had for around $1k-$1.2k.

If not, you'll be looking to rebuild yours and with an LSD and new parts you'll spend at least double what you would on a Euro-R trans
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
🤔 hmm I'll look into that too, appreciate it... I also was looking at the carbon tech kit and maybe by just the 2nd gear... But I'll look around for the euro r too... We're going to check the trans fluid first and go from there 👌
 

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Syncrotech carbon lined synchros are awesome and I recommend them for any spirited driver than wants quicker shifts. When I opened my ASP3 transmission to swap the TSX 6th in I also dropped in carbon synchros on 1-4. I was happy with them immediately just as I have been with previous cars... But I must add that I just did my first trans fluid change since that trans went in and.... wow. Now that they're broken in and have fresh fluid they are even more incredible. Best feeling transmission I've ever owned. The previous trans I said that about was the S40 K4F I rebuilt with syncrotech carbon synchros back when I was in an EK. Shouldn't be as surprised as I am but it's been several years between.
 

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I have a 2004 Tsx Acura, Today I was driving and it wouldn't go into 2nd gear. So I stopped my car and it wouldn't go into any gear. I turned the engine off started my car in 1st gear and it just rattled and die. This is the second clutch kit I have bought. I had bought a 2nd clutch kit, and took it to the shop 4 months ago, my starter went bad and just got my car back out the shop again I'd say its been a month now. And now this. HELP what else could be wrong
 

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Sounds like the clutch is not disengaging at all.

Was it a stock clutch kit or something else?

Did you check the clutch fluid level in the reservoir?

Could be a bad slave or MC, any sign of oil on the carpet under the pedal? You can inspect the area around the slave for seals too, maybe a line didn't get tightened and the fluid leaked out slowly? Check the splash guard for fluid too (or your driveway if you're missing the splash guard).

Worst case maybe a bad pilot bushing keeping the input shaft locked to the motor, or something with the new clutch disk. If the input shaft was worn maybe the disk is jammed and not free to slide and disengage. For a job like that I ask for photos or try to stop by in person to see what it looks like when opened up. Main seal condition and input shaft condition are of interest.
 

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Sounds like an engagement issue. Gravity bleed and then the pedal should be firm. From there have someone push the clutch pedal in and watch the slave - see if it pushes the clutch fork all the way. Then yes check the clutch pedal to see if it's broken - last thing is to adjust the MC to the clutch pedal. You might have it adjusted in too far so when the clutch pedal bottoms out there is still more stroke left in the MC to be used, thus causing clutch engagement/disengagement issues.

For reverse grinds - always go 1st gear then to reverse - they are on the same shaft so if you go 1st- Reverse it'll be smooth with no grinding.
Quick question. I'm having an issue with my 04 tsx. Clutch pedal is soft. When I start the car it doesn't want to go in gear unless I pump the clutch pedal but when I turn the car off it goes into every gear. I bled the system but it didn't give me a better clutch pedal. There is no sign of fluid leaking and the clutch slave moves when the clutch is depressed but its very squeaky. What do you think?
 

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Yeah that sounds like a MC or slave. Do you see any signs of fluid under the clutch pedal on the floor mat? It would look like dark spots, so you might not have noticed a puddle. How about the fluid reservoir? Any loss of fluid there?

Also do you know if the clutch has ever been replaced? The slave is "normally" replaced with the clutch, so if it's a new-ish clutch the slave is probably new as well.

If I thought the slave was old, I'd probably just replace that and see what happens... a lot easier than the doing the MC in this car.
 

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Slave cylinder didn't look like it was leaking but when I went under the car and touched the rubber boot, brake fluid started to gush out. I replaced it last night and I'm going to bleed it today and pray that the problem is gone
 

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You will need to stick to a case that came from a TSX or a EDM/JDM accord. The Euro-R trans is the best option for bolt in. It has shorter 2-6th gears, and LSD. They can be had for around $1k-$1.2k.

If not, you'll be looking to rebuild yours and with an LSD and new parts you'll spend at least double what you would on a Euro-R trans
You will need to stick to a case that came from a TSX or a EDM/JDM accord. The Euro-R trans is the best option for bolt in. It has shorter 2-6th gears, and LSD. They can be had for around $1k-$1.2k.

If not, you'll be looking to rebuild yours and with an LSD and new parts you'll spend at least double what you would on a Euro-R trans
just in the case you need a new transmission case, the USDM 03-07 Accords with 5 speed casings are exactly the same case as the cl7,and unlike the TSX, is made of 100% aluminum...part # 21200-RAP-000 vs our TSX magnesium/aluminum alloy,which is softer, part # 21200-RAR-M00. Swap 6 speed guts and gear selector into us market 2.4 Accord 5 speed case, and you have a ''CL7' ''transmission''
 
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