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Has anyone encountered a problem where when I fully press the clutch, I sometimes can't put the car into first? If I "force" it, I can put it into first gear, but it seems like that amount of force can eventually snap the shaft.

I suspect that when I am pressing the clutch down, it's not actually lifting as high as it should, so I can't put it into the gear I want it to.

Also, this may be related, but as soon as I make a complete stop, and put my car into reverse, my gears grind. I don't know why this is the case, but it may have to do with the clutch not disengaging fully? Sometimes I can put it into reverse without any problems, other times, it would grind, and it's embarrassing when people are walking down the street only to hear the grinding.
 

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master cylinder.

try clutching in, pause, and then reversing. If that doesnt help, try clutching in, pause, put it an abitrary gear (like 3rd), neutral and put it into reverse.

Also try the same in first (waiting a second after clutching in) (also if you are moving, the 1st gear lockout feature might be what you are experiencing when you try to jam it into first.).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
master cylinder.

try clutching in, pause, and then reversing. If that doesnt help, try clutching in, pause, put it an abitrary gear (like 3rd), neutral and put it into reverse.

Also try the same in first (waiting a second after clutching in) (also if you are moving, the 1st gear lockout feature might be what you are experiencing when you try to jam it into first.).
I have tried waiting a few seconds before clutching in, but I get the same problem. Sometimes when I am about to fully put it into reverse, I hear the onset of grinding, I put the shaft back to Neutral, and then tried the reverse again (all without letting go of the clutch), but same problem.

I also put it into first (arbitrary) and then reverse, but same problem. The only time this works - from what I noticed - is when I turn on the car. I already tried making a complete stop, put it into first, then reverse, but I would get the grinding. It's not always, but I would say it's enough that I notice it (30-40% of the time?)

I believe you would feel the difference between a lockout, and resistance. When I clutch in, move the shaft to first, I feel resistance, but when I put more force into it, it just seems like blocks are moving into position (hard to explain?), and then the shaft enters first gear.

Not sure if this would be related either (probably not) but when I park and turn off the car, I would normally have the gear shifted to second. I noticed that when I do this, the shaft would get stuck half-way, and I have to move the shaft to first before successfully putting it into second gear. I only found this out because when I started the car, the gearbox was grinding lightly.

Is there some way I could stiffen the clutch so that it lifts more when I press it? I'm not sure if this is possible.
 

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I believe the clutch is self adjusting. You may have an issue with the pressure plate on the clutch assembly.
With all the grinding your experiencing I would advise taking it to a mechanic. Last think you want is to do damage to the gearing teeth, which require getting your gearbox rebuilt.
GL.
 

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I've seemed to notice more grinding lately. I've been driving stick for 14 years, 7 of them on this car. The clutch has 200,000km on it (about 125,000 miles), probably 70% city, 30% highway mileage.

Putting into first seems "notchy", exactly as OP describes. Putting it in reverse almost always involves a slight grind -- I'd describe it as a "crunch" sound. The reverse crunch happens even if I start the car (in neutral) and shift directly into reverse before ever having put it in a forward gear since starting the car. It also happens if I go from 1st or 2nd, with a pause between, and then into reverse.

Lately noticed more 1-2 shift grinds as well, even with the requisite 1/2 second pause in the neutral position between 1st and 2nd gear.

I don't want to have to put in a new clutch... $$$... but combine the above symptoms with a shudder (clutch chatter?!?) any time I am starting from a dead stop in 1st... enough to rattle the dash and change tray... I think it might be time. FML.
 

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Have you checked your fluid? As a low cost measure, it wouldn't hurt to bleed the system to see if you have any air trapped in there.

Also, aside from the master cylinder, it would also be helpful to check the slave cylinder (between intake manifold and transmission).
 

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Have you checked your fluid? As a low cost measure, it wouldn't hurt to bleed the system to see if you have any air trapped in there.

Also, aside from the master cylinder, it would also be helpful to check the slave cylinder (between intake manifold and transmission).
Maybe I'll look up the procedure and bleed the hydraulics in it this weekend -- I don't think it's been done since the warrantied engine replacement back in 2005.

I called my mechanic friend and he said to test the clutch by revving up to redline in 1st, then dumping the clutch in 3rd directly from 1st. Any slippage - clutch is going. Well, mine was SOLID... no slipping at all. In fact, traction control engaged as it grabbed so hard!

So unless the clutch itself is 'ok' but something not related to the friction surface is a bit off...?
 

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Maybe I'll look up the procedure and bleed the hydraulics in it this weekend -- I don't think it's been done since the warrantied engine replacement back in 2005.

I called my mechanic friend and he said to test the clutch by revving up to redline in 1st, then dumping the clutch in 3rd directly from 1st. Any slippage - clutch is going. Well, mine was SOLID... no slipping at all. In fact, traction control engaged as it grabbed so hard!

So unless the clutch itself is 'ok' but something not related to the friction surface is a bit off...?
Did you ever resolve this issue?
 

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I still have this issue. I just changed the manual transmission fluid this weekend and the symptoms are all still present. The car shifts silkier from 2-3, 3-4, 4-5, 5-6 and back... but the notchy feeling going 1-2 or 2-1 is still there, and the grind going into R even from a dead stop has been getting progressively worse.
 

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Reading your explanation its most likely your slave, its getting lazy on you and not pushing all the way out. Mine did the same thing, but I continued to have issues such as where the clutch grabbed moved around as I was driving. I ended up replacing the pedal, master, slave and added a stainless braided line. Feels like new again.
 

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Thanks. I'm wondering if I should just change the slave myself and put all new fluid in the lines, bleed it, and see what happens. Slave cylinders are pretty inexpensive... about 1/30th the cost of a clutch replacement job.
 

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Thanks. I'm wondering if I should just change the slave myself and put all new fluid in the lines, bleed it, and see what happens. Slave cylinders are pretty inexpensive... about 1/30th the cost of a clutch replacement job.
Exactly, Even if you need a new clutch, Depending on how many miles are on it I would recommend changing the slave and master anyways
 

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What a total ripoff... $61 for a slave cylinder here in Canada. $12 on Rockauto (but shipping kills that deal, almost).
Master cylinder is $168 here!! FACK!
 

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Its the shipping that'll kill any deal, guaranteed. :(
 

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ive had a 1998 honda accord manual.. and it used to do the same thing grind 1st-2nd then grind reverse.... then finally the clutch master gave out and replaced both...

i was doing some reading that the cms and the salve cylinder has its short falls with manual transmission on our cars.. I also have the same problem with my 04 tsx 6m.. I was planning on changing the slave cylinder tomorrow.. ill give u a heads up after i replace it if it rectifies the problem. if it doesnt then i replace my clutch master cylinder too
 

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ive had a 1998 honda accord manual.. and it used to do the same thing grind 1st-2nd then grind reverse.... then finally the clutch master gave out and replaced both...

i was doing some reading that the cms and the salve cylinder has its short falls with manual transmission on our cars.. I also have the same problem with my 04 tsx 6m.. I was planning on changing the slave cylinder tomorrow.. ill give u a heads up after i replace it if it rectifies the problem. if it doesnt then i replace my clutch master cylinder too
MUCH appreciated - thanks!!
 

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ive had a 1998 honda accord manual.. and it used to do the same thing grind 1st-2nd then grind reverse.... then finally the clutch master gave out and replaced both...

i was doing some reading that the cms and the salve cylinder has its short falls with manual transmission on our cars.. I also have the same problem with my 04 tsx 6m.. I was planning on changing the slave cylinder tomorrow.. ill give u a heads up after i replace it if it rectifies the problem. if it doesnt then i replace my clutch master cylinder too
If you replace the master, loosen the bolts on the Brake MC. You can thank me later ;)
 

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I changed the slave cylinder. Was getting dark so didnt have time to do the cms.. I realized the cms is alot more work to replace. I also realized that the grinding could be due to how much your pushing your clutch in.. and it could just be the adjuster on the cms inside thats connected to the clutch pedal.

Before you change your cms or your slave.. adjust the adjuster nut thats connected to the clutch pedal that has that specialized pin and it should fix your grinds ..
 

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hi there I also have been having this reverse gear grind. seems too only happen when the car has been driven.. I've been keeping up with this thread, last couple days. I too also have adjusted the cms. I cracked loose the nut behind the clutch pedal and adjusted the pedal higher. since then I have not heard any grind.. seems to be the problem. I will keep let you know if it back or not.
 
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