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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I'm hoping you guys can help me diagnose this problem. I've tried to look up similar symptoms but I haven't really found a case that is similar to what I am experiencing.

Note: I've had the clutch creaking/clicking problem for some time, so I am aware that my clutch master cylinder may be failing.

Recently, I noticed that when I depress the clutch (when in gear) I feel a vibration (almost like a circular type of vibration). It drives me nuts - usually the clutch goes down smooth.

Now I've noticed that when I slow down, or stop, it can be hard to get into first gear. I kind of have to force it in there. I also noticed that once I do get into first gear, sometimes the car vibrates more than usual. It's almost as if...even when the clutch pedal is completely depressed - I'm still not disengaging it!

When I'm at a complete stop, it's impossible to get into 5th - It did not use to be this way.

Shifting use to be smooth and flawless.

These problems have been consistent, but I noticed today that it would go away and come back every few minutes.

Could it be that my CMC is progressively failing?


I would appreciate any help... If I can't figure out what to do I'll have to replace the CMC along with the slave master cylinder, and replace the fluid - but even then I don't know if the problem will go away!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Vibration in the pedal (when depressing/disengaging the clutch while in gear)

Although, the vibration caused by sitting in 1st gear is in the engine and therefore felt throughout the car.

I just took the car for a short trip to get food... At some stoplights I had a really difficult time getting the car into 1st.. Then on my way home everything seemed fine for about 2 minutes... Then back to the problems.
 

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That's Doctor
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This sounds like pressure is still on the clutch even though you have the pedal fully depressed. I would say first before you spend a bunch of money on parts, inspect the clutch pedal bracket. MANY people are reporting cracks in their bracket which allow flexing. So, even though the pedal is to the floor, it's still not fully disengaging the clutch. Then I'd check for bubbles/leaks in the hydraulics by bleeding the system. Lastly I'd suspect the pressure plate and/or clutch release bearing. Others have reported pressure plate spring failures and release bearing failures that would cause these symptoms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the feedback -

Update: Checked clutch bracket - looks fine

Bleed the fluid - Seems a bit different, but a problem still persists. When depressing the clutch, you can feel that it moves down in very obvious increments. It seems easier to get into gear but every time you depress the pedal to shift you can feel something is obviously wrong. Does not happen in neutral.
 

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That's Doctor
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This seems like the clutch is definitely dragging and since you checked on the other things I mentioned, I'd be inclined to suspect the release bearing and/or pressure plate. How many miles do you have on this clutch and what is your average driving style?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
>142,000 miles with the original clutch. Driving style is generally reserved with sometimes spirited driving.

I've just dropped the car off at a shop to have it checked out and it'll be interesting to see what they say... Gotta get the car up and running so I won't have to miss work :thumbsdow

Thanks for all of the help! I'll keep you updated
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The shop didn't find any leaks from the CMC or slave cylinder. The said that the vibration while depressing the clutch was from a warped flywheel, but this problem only just started occurring so I'm a bit confused there.

They asked how I bleed the clutch (I used a mityvac) and they wanted to re-do it the correct way (with pressure instead of vaccum) to get rid of air bubbles.

After that, we thought we had fixed the problem. But I'm still having trouble (although not as frequently), when I got home I got stuck in reverse...

I think what's next is replacing the CMC and slave...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I called the shop back to find out what the cost would be for the CMC and slave cylinder. They quoted me a total of $486 for both.

We're still having a difficult time trying to figure out whether or not it is a clutch problem or hydraulic problem...

I mentioned to the mechanic that when I got home I got stuck in reverse, and I was trying get back into neutral without trying to be too forceful... Based on that kind of information he is leaning more towards it being a clutch problem.

He said that it would be an estimated ~$900 for the clutch job with the flywheel being resurfaced. Maybe 300 or 400 additionally if I got a new flywheel. I think these might be ballpark estimates because he didn't look these individual parts up, but based on being an Honda/Acura mechanic and being familiar with the normal range of the part costs and labor required.

Any feedback would be very helpful...
 

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Its def not a fly wheel. Its most likely your throwout bearing, especially if its original to the car :eek:hsnap:

I would replace everything, NEW flywheel, clutch and an OEM bearing (dont use the AM one that comes with the kit).

Dont let them talk you into resurfacing the flywheel, it will cause issues down the road just buy a new one and you will be much happier :) GL
 

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Thanks for the tips guys. I'm feeling more confident and hopeful that a clutch replacement will fix the problem.

AM bearings? What are those?

The bearings that come with the Exedy OEM kit are OEM bearings aren't they?

More Information for EXEDY HCK1001
AM im lazy... After Market :p

No they are not the same, they look the same but if you hold them you will see they are not. OEM throwout bearings are cheap (50 bucks).

Here is my DIY thread on how to replace the clutch: http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/1st-g...-transmission-clutch-replacement-removal.html

Gives you an idea of how much work is involved ;)
 

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Un-Civil Engineer
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Around $1200 seems normal for a clutch and flywheel replacement on a TSX. I just had this done late last year. You might as well just get the new flywheel if you replace the clutch. It will keep issues from forming down the road!

Good luck!
 

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Its def not a fly wheel. Its most likely your throwout bearing, especially if its original to the car :eek:hsnap:

I would replace everything, NEW flywheel, clutch and an OEM bearing (dont use the AM one that comes with the kit).

Dont let them talk you into resurfacing the flywheel, it will cause issues down the road just buy a new one and you will be much happier :) GL
OP, still make sure that the flywheel is okay. It will be a total waste of time to replace the clutch, not check the flywheel, and have to do all this work again. Plus it will be the same amount of labor again.
 

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Reviving an old thread here... I'm having nearly identical issues as OP. Though I can smell my clutch burning when engaging in 1st and my clutch pedal feels abnormally soft.

Haven't gotten any diagnostics yet, but I'm afraid it's my clutch, flywheel, and/or throwout bearing....

Another side note, sometimes when in neutral and clutch is depressed, if I rev the motor, it sounds whiney like it's got a supercharger on. Throwout bearing...??
 

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Reviving an old thread here... I'm having nearly identical issues as OP. Though I can smell my clutch burning when engaging in 1st and my clutch pedal feels abnormally soft.

Haven't gotten any diagnostics yet, but I'm afraid it's my clutch, flywheel, and/or throwout bearing....

Another side note, sometimes when in neutral and clutch is depressed, if I rev the motor, it sounds whiney like it's got a supercharger on. Throwout bearing...??
 
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