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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2006 TSX with about 180k miles. Just had the clutch assembly and flywheel replaced at the dealership. Shop calls during the clutch replacement and says Check Emissions light came on. Tech pulled code which shows o2 sensor in bank 1, sensor 1 is bad.

The Check Emissions light was not on when I brought the car in. Why would it pop on when doing the clutch replacement? Is this reasonable? Just don't want to go down a rabbit hole of fixing something to clear the light only to find out the "fix" didn't actually clear out the Check Emissions light.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
2006 TSX with about 180k miles. Just had the clutch assembly and flywheel replaced at the dealership. Shop calls during the clutch replacement and says Check Emissions light came on. Tech pulled code which shows o2 sensor in bank 1, sensor 1 is bad.

The Check Emissions light was not on when I brought the car in. Why would it pop on when doing the clutch replacement? Is this reasonable? Just don't want to go down a rabbit hole of fixing something to clear the light only to find out the "fix" didn't actually clear out the Check Emissions light.
Also just had #4 maintenance performed - valve adjustments and spark plugs. Not sure if that could have impacted something that could cause the light to come on.
 

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They might have damaged the sensor or it's wire, I don't think they'd remove it for a clutch job but they might have hit it with something. You cannot "repair" an O2 sensor wire if damaged.

Also might have been bad anyway, and the changed (improved) engine performance from the tune up was more than it could keep up with. That'd be my guess, acura dealers are not usually dishonest.

I would have had them replace it while it was apart, and save the old one so you could see if it was damaged.

Buy an OBDII monitor, easy to use and a must-have for older cars.
 

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Which code? Description is vague and an o2 sensor can throw several different codes.
The primary o2 sensor is secured to the top of the transmission. So they did at least have to remove the connector from the transmission before removing the transmission itself, chances are they unplugged it to to help make space.
I'm hoping they at least double checked and made sure it was reconnected. If it is connected, there's still a fair chance the wiring got pinched, pulled or damaged somehow during the clutch job.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Didn’t give me the code. Just said it was the o2 sensor. Would have had them just replace it but they wanted $660 to do it which felt a little steep. I’ve had the CEL come on before when having something unrelated fixed, only to find when I took care of the problem that the code indicated, it didn’t clear out the light. Just trying to avoid going down a rabbit hole here.
 

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Yeah that's a truly ridiculous price to change an o2 sensor.
Codes take a while to clear on their own. Get your self an obd>Bluetooth adapter and an app for your phone and you can check and clear codes yourself.
 

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Yeah that's a truly ridiculous price to change an o2 sensor.
Codes take a while to clear on their own. Get your self an obd>Bluetooth adapter and an app for your phone and you can check and clear codes yourself.
So if I clear the code myself, would the light come back on with the same code if the o2 sensor is in fact defective? Or would the computer just ignore that code going forward and not flash the light?

Thanks for all the help thus far.
 

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If there is still a problem it will come back. If it is a broken wire or unplugged sensor it will come back very quickly. Otherwise it may take a few drive cycles to come back if the problem is intermittent.
I like Torque as an obd app. I've used a few different ones but keep coming back to Torque. Don't remember if the free version let's you clear codes or not, but Pro is only like $5 or something close to that.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Got an ODP monitor. Code came up as P1157 which is the primary o2 sensor. Cleared the code, then started the car up. Light came on almost immediately before I had completely backed out of the driveway.

So I guess it’s onto replacing the o2 sensor. Thoughts on OEM vs after market. Obviously OEM is better, but Acura part is about $380 online. Looks like aftermarket would run between $115 and $190 depending on brand.

Is there a particular brand for the o2 sensor you’d recommend? I’ve read to stay away from Bosch. Or just bite the bullet and gowith The Acura part?
 

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I replaced mine a year or two ago.... Got a Denso part and want to say it didn't cost much more than $100.

Edit: Upstream sensor Denso 234-9066
 

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I replaced mine a year or two ago.... Got a Denso part and want to say it didn't cost much more than $100.

Edit: Upstream sensor Denso 234-9066
Thanks. What was the difficulty level on the replacement? I don't typically work on my car but am typically good at figuring out repairs if I have some direction. If it's not overly difficult, I might try it myself.
 

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  • Most difficult part is getting the old sensor loose from the exhaust. Get a decent slotted o2 sensor socket from Amazon or wherever, some penetrating oil like PB blaster or similar, and a breaker bar. Soak the O2 sensor hung in penetrating oil the day before you start so it has time to soak in. Then maybe again an hour or two before attempt to break the sensor free. If you can't break it free just by turning the breaker bar, maybe tap it with a hammer to get thing started. Just be sure the socket is seated correctly so you isn't round it off.
Once the old sensor comes loose it's a really simple replacement.
 

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Heat can help too, if the other stuff doesn't work. I'd try heat before I get too carried away with a breaker bar. Use a heat gun or hair dryer, not a torch. You could probably get away with a torch on the exhaust system since you're not going to re-use the O2 sensor anyway, just be careful not to get it anywhere near red hot.

Brand X should work fine, it might not last as long as a quality part or OEM.
 
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