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Bardi
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1,346 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
All I can say is that the CU2 has a way better platform than the CL9. All the problems with the CL9 are taken care of. For example the spherical bearing is much wider and the pocket it goes into has a much tighter fit.

Another thing that I liked a lot is that the stupid push nut is gone and an actual self locking nut has taking its place. The rod that the nut is attached to is nicely machined and there is no play from the crank arm.


This is where I get confused. This is the shifter in its relaxed state. The top part points backwards. Hmmmm? Does it feel pointed backwards to you?


The shifter turns like crazy, but I was relaxed one I saw this. It points straight down to the shaft. My straight design can work again!


Another impressing job with this box. There is NO play between the mating parts because of this nifty design.


More soon.
 

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AWOC - If only other people would be more like you. I think this chassis is going to be a great chassis. The chassi braces, coil overs and sway bar helped quite a bit. As soon as I get the LSD in the tranny case and we have engine managment, we'll be set. Snail under the hood, then let the haters hate.
 

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Bardi
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1,346 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I had the worst time trying to seperate the pivot housing off the shifter box.


Here is the problem. To separate the two pieces is very tough. The pivot housing is fiber reenforced nylon. Tough stuff that doesnt want to move. There are 4 tabs that hold the housing to the box. It is super easy to assemble, but a bitch to take apart. You would have to pry them all at the same time, for them to pop off. I had small screw drivers and I still ended up breaking 2 out of the 4 tabs. I know people are going to run into this same problem. Here is the pocket that the tabs expand into.


The 4 tabs of hell.


Here is the comparison of the 1st gen pivot housing (bottom) vs. the better version with the second gen. A one piece design that engulfs the whole ball.


What was the guy who designed this thing thinking? Just look. There are 5 bends in this thing, lol.


All the components.


I measured the ball. It is perfectly round. Another great advance from the first gen. Too bad they skimped on plastic.


First gen left, 2nd gen right. Notice the angle the cable has to go through? It may seem steeper, but the second gen box doesn't sit flat on the floor of the car. It points down so the cables can be routed easier under the car.


The straight stick design that works in the 1st gen will not work with the second gen. I have to come up with a a fixture to bend the shifter after it is welded up. This way the shift knob ends up in the same direction as oem. I just found out the box site at an angle so this is a game changer. Not a big deal, just one more thing to make.

To keep cost down, would you guys be in favor of me cutting off the top section of the shifter and reusing it (right after the ball to the knob)? I would prob trim 1/2" off it. It will make the project easier for me, and cheaper for you. It will make the fit/feel better IMO. Thoughts?
 

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1,575 Posts
Despite the crazy curved shifter lever, since the shifter pivot is a good design, have you considered just adding length between the plastic pivot point & the shifter tip?

Remove the plastic pivot ball & the plastic tip. Cut the shifter below the plastic pivot ball, weld in a length to increase the pivot point lever (to shorten the throws), reassemble it.
Assuming the plastic pivot ball can be removed from the stock shift lever??

This would shorten the throws but would keep the stock shifter height.
 

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I already have the CT short shifter on my shifter. It works fine. But a one piece can be set up to be shorter up top, and has the potential to be curved differently to sit different than the stock.

I had a sweet pspec shifter in my older honda's.
 

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Bardi
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1,346 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I would not recommend anyone to weld an extension on this. There is a very good chance the pivot ball will not take the heat. Welding these gets the part pretty hot. If i were to do it I would machine a new ball completely. I got some bending jigs ideas going through my head. I think I will go with the bending route. I will need to make 2 jigs. One to bend with, and one to make sure the position of the knob is perfect.
 

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Bardi
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1,346 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Actually no. I wanted a nice update before I went anywhere with it. I just passed in a drawing to get some quotes. The crazy bend from the shifter is making me cut the rod in half and separate the two halfs with a spacer. This way the threaded end will be positioned just like oem.

Here are the parts that I got machined and ready to go.
 
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