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Hey all,

This is a short description of my experience with a problem I had a few weeks back. Excuse any mistakes as I'm multitasking.

I was driving nearby my home when my engine started vibrating oddly. I thought it was the A/C, so I shut that off. Over the period of 30-40 seconds it got progressively worst. I was only about a mile from home, so I decided I would try to make it back so I could park instead of having to get a tow.

As soon as I got to the next stoplight (and then tried to accelerate), my engine was barely managing to chug itself along.

CEL turns on.

I got her home, turn the car off and started her back up. Still the same problems.

My friend came over with a scanner and we got "Cylinder #4 Misfire". Oh ****, I didn't want to deal with this. The car was warm, so we opted to wait a few hours (~4 or so) until pulling the spark plugs to see their condition. The previous owner claimed he changed them 15k ago, but I didn't really believe him without a receipt.

Before pulling the plugs though, I switched two of the ignition coils. I didn't know the orientation of the cylinders, unfortunately... so I guess that they were (4,3,2,1) [passenger side - driver's side]. It is actually the opposite. I was hoping to switch the coil on #3 and #4 to see if the problem would follow a bad coil. It didn't because I swapped coils #1 and #2 without knowing it. At this point I should have swapped the other two coils, but I didn't.

I went to get new spark plugs and changed them. This was more of a piece of mind thing. I had a receipt, and I made sure to put anti-seize on them. Now I KNOW my plugs are new. The old ones didn't look good...

Problem still persisted. This time, I decided to switch the correct #3 and #4 ignition coils (the correct order is 1,2,3,4 from passenger to driver). The problem followed the coil. My friend's scanner read Cylinder #3 misfire.

I ordered a new ignition coil off amazon, installed it, and all is well again. So glad that it was not a more severe problem. Hope this guide may help someone who has a similar problem.

P.S. In my past experience, a bad spark plug or coil may be more intermittent. Mine just flat out went dead. The vibration may have been caused the imbalanced from only having 3 cylinders operational.
 

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Good diagnosis!! Glad the problem was relatively inexpensive to fix, too.

Although I should caution you that if you purchased new NGK sparkplugs, they come with an anti-seize "shell" plating on them from their factory and their website and tech notes say to NOT use anti-seize on the initial install. Then again I haven't heard of this causing problems, so you're probably ok anyhow, but I thought I would mention it.
 

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Hey all,

This is a short description of my experience with a problem I had a few weeks back. Excuse any mistakes as I'm multitasking.

I was driving nearby my home when my engine started vibrating oddly. I thought it was the A/C, so I shut that off. Over the period of 30-40 seconds it got progressively worst. I was only about a mile from home, so I decided I would try to make it back so I could park instead of having to get a tow.

As soon as I got to the next stoplight (and then tried to accelerate), my engine was barely managing to chug itself along.

CEL turns on.

I got her home, turn the car off and started her back up. Still the same problems.

My friend came over with a scanner and we got "Cylinder #4 Misfire". Oh ****, I didn't want to deal with this. The car was warm, so we opted to wait a few hours (~4 or so) until pulling the spark plugs to see their condition. The previous owner claimed he changed them 15k ago, but I didn't really believe him without a receipt.

Before pulling the plugs though, I switched two of the ignition coils. I didn't know the orientation of the cylinders, unfortunately... so I guess that they were (4,3,2,1) [passenger side - driver's side]. It is actually the opposite. I was hoping to switch the coil on #3 and #4 to see if the problem would follow a bad coil. It didn't because I swapped coils #1 and #2 without knowing it. At this point I should have swapped the other two coils, but I didn't.

I went to get new spark plugs and changed them. This was more of a piece of mind thing. I had a receipt, and I made sure to put anti-seize on them. Now I KNOW my plugs are new. The old ones didn't look good...

Problem still persisted. This time, I decided to switch the correct #3 and #4 ignition coils (the correct order is 1,2,3,4 from passenger to driver). The problem followed the coil. My friend's scanner read Cylinder #3 misfire.

I ordered a new ignition coil off amazon, installed it, and all is well again. So glad that it was not a more severe problem. Hope this guide may help someone who has a similar problem.

P.S. In my past experience, a bad spark plug or coil may be more intermittent. Mine just flat out went dead. The vibration may have been caused the imbalanced from only having 3 cylinders operational.

My 05 TSX had the same symptoms and problem (also a failed ignition coil on cylinder #4) as above, but I didn't see this thread before I fixed it today. This thread is spot on, though, for anybody who experiences these symptoms on their TSX in the future and wants to save some money.

Here's just a recap of what I went through:
Initial thought was bad gas, but that quickly was ruled out. Then, I thought spark plugs. Installed new NGK Iridiums ($9.99 each from Autozone, ~$43 after taxes), but problem was still there. Had it diagnosed and it came back with a bad ignition coil (some people also call this a "coil pack" or "coilpack;" for those of you who are mechanically-challenged, the ignition coil is the long, gray, plastic thingy that touches your spark plug and is connected by a clip to the car)on cylinder #4 (cylinder closest to driver's side; cylinders fire off 1-4 starting from the cylinder closest to the passenger side). That was the reason the car was sensing a misfire and why the check engine light was blinking. Shop wanted $125.00 for the ignition coil and $56.00 for labor. Since I live about 10 minutes from a wealth of used auto parts shops/wreakage yards, I went over to a shop that specialized in Acura parts, bought a used OEM ignition coil for $20, and installed it myself (was way easier because I just changed the spark plugs earlier that morning). Again, if anybody in the future has these same symptoms with their TSX, this is worth checking out and could save you a lot of time and money. Good luck all.
 

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Awesome diagnosis, wolverinept! Glad it worked for you, and, that it wasn't too $$.

Just a point of useless clarification: Cylinders firing order I believe is actually 1, 3, 4, 2. ;)
 

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curls: Thank you, but all the credit should go to the OP, who did us a solid here. Also, thank you for the correction on the order that the cylinders fire in. If that is the order the cylinders fire in, then let me correct myself by saying the ignition coil on cylinder #2 failed. The tech told me that was cylinder #4 and, not knowing any better, I published that incorrect information here. Now I know. :)

awoc: Yep, never heard of it before either. I guess that's a good thing.

geebra: Based on my experience above, probably only when it fails. Otherwise, I wouldn't worry about it. For what it's worth, that's still my attitude today even though it happened to me.
 

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I'm glad i found this thread. I am experiencing the same thing as the op. Car started vibrating and hesitating. I was able to drive it home as well. I changed the spark plugs and same problem. BUT i get misfire code from all cylinders, not just one of them. When i start my car at times, it starts without problem. But when i drive pass 3k rpm the vibrating comes back again. the check engine light resets whenever i turn the car back on after a few minutes and it starts and revs ok. then when i drive, i feel the hesitation and the cel comes on. Could it be the coil packs? injectors maybe?
 

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Good problem solving, but I wouldn't recommend using anti-seize on an aluminum head, let alone and iron head. It can ruin the threads.
What? The reason anti seize started to be used was because of aluminum heads! When you mix metals in threads it cause corrosion which over time welds the threads together. Anti seize is a lubricant, allowing less friction in the threads so you are able to tq them down safer and easier, and it has anti corrosives to stop the weld effect. Many many bolts on the TSX have anti seize from the factory, any bolt that is going into unlike metal should have anti seize on it.
 

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What? The reason anti seize started to be used was because of aluminum heads! When you mix metals in threads it cause corrosion which over time welds the threads together. Anti seize is a lubricant, allowing less friction in the threads so you are able to tq them down safer and easier, and it has anti corrosives to stop the weld effect. Many many bolts on the TSX have anti seize from the factory, any bolt that is going into unlike metal should have anti seize on it.
You should make sure you specify when you say anti seize. Copper based anti seize is a big no no for aluminum heads. Copper based anti seize will eat the treads in an aluminum head. Anti seize was originally made popular for use on exhaust parts that that would deteriorate from the heat cycles ( such as O2 sensors and studs). There is however a nickel based anti seize usually called "high nickel" anti seize that was designed to be used with aluminum heads, and is the only anti seize lubricant that should be used on aluminum heads. If you don't believe me, go check out a spark plug thread for the ford triton v8. I'm not trying to step on your toes but I would hate to see someone blow a plug out of the head because they used copper anti seize. It's never fun to fix something like that.
 

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You should make sure you specify when you say anti seize. Copper based anti seize is a big no no for aluminum heads. Copper based anti seize will eat the treads in an aluminum head. Anti seize was originally made popular for use on exhaust parts that that would deteriorate from the heat cycles ( such as O2 sensors and studs). There is however a nickel based anti seize usually called "high nickel" anti seize that was designed to be used with aluminum heads, and is the only anti seize lubricant that should be used on aluminum heads. If you don't believe me, go check out a spark plug thread for the ford triton v8. I'm not trying to step on your toes but I would hate to see someone blow a plug out of the head because they used copper anti seize. It's never fun to fix something like that.
SORRY but looks to be a Design Flaw, not just Aluminium Heads in general.

http://www.jasperengines.com/pdf/4.6_&_5.4_Stripped_Threads.pdf
 

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This happened to me after work, I replaced the spark plugs and still when I start up the car the engine vibrates and throws a CEL.

I'm gonna to figure which coil pack is bad and replace it.

Is it best practice to replace all 4 packs? that could be pricey! or replacing the bad one is good enough ?
 

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I am having the same problem with my 2004 TSX. My mechanic thinks it is the ignition coil. My mechanic is 30 miles away from me. Can I still drive the car slowly without making things worse? Any help input would be much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Sorry for the very late responses guys,

I'm not sure how well I can answer your questions, but I will try.

I did not replace all 4 ignition coils (too expensive). My car has been running like a champ for the last 10k after this issue, and the replacement of just 1 coil. I did, however, replace all 4 spark plugs like I mentioned, because (1) I did not have records of when the owner last did them, (2) they are inexpensive maintenance, and since we had to pull them out to look at them, we did them anyways.

The vibration was not something that I felt good about driving. Luckily I was about 1 mile from home, so I slowly drove home when my car starting vibrating to avoid a tow. I would not feel comfortable driving my car, in that condition, 30 miles, since essentially, only 3 of my cylinders were firing.

I'm no mechanic but I would be worried about driving it that 30 miles. I would suggest using your AAA membership (if you have one), to get a tow. If you have a regular membership right now, upgrade it to the 100mile tow membership, and you don't have to worry about any damage to your car. If you don't...maybe you have to be creative about how to do it?

Also - Do you have ab OBD II sensor? By swapping the coils around, we were able to determine the bad one. I didn't have to go to a mechanic for the diagnosis.
 

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Bump. Just determined my Ignition Coil on Cyl #4 has shit the bed. Im kind of screwed, I need to drive it to work, then hopefully to the dealer to pick up the right part.

For those who've replaced the coil pack. Did the acura dealer have it in stock? Or did it have to be ordered?
 

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Bump. Just determined my Ignition Coil on Cyl #4 has shit the bed. Im kind of screwed, I need to drive it to work, then hopefully to the dealer to pick up the right part.

For those who've replaced the coil pack. Did the acura dealer have it in stock? Or did it have to be ordered?
You can also use honda part departments as well. Just give them the part number. There are many hondas that cross reference to the same coil pack we use, most likely someone will have it in stock.

Your best bet is the biggest dealer near you.
 
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