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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Please?!

Symptoms:
- Very tough to get into 1st from a dead-stop (car warm or cold, doesn't matter).
- Reverse always grinds really bad.
- 1-2 and 2-3 shifts feel notchy, not smooth.
- clutch grabs really well, no slippage. (thankfully).
- OEM clutch, 215,000km.
- Clutch pedal clicks on way down, and creaks/squeaks on way up. Bracket is NOT cracked.

Notable:
- With car off, shifts into any gear are butter smooth no matter if clutch is in or out.
- If I pump the clutch 2-3 times with car on, the shift into 1st or R is smooth like it should be. This happens 100% of the time if I pump the clutch.
- Checked clutch fluid - looks slightly dark but is between MIN and MAX levels.
- Have not tried bleeding the clutch lines yet. Slave and Master cylinder are still stock, never changed.

So... what to check/do and in what order?

THANKS!
 

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Have you tried to adjust the connector on the master cylinder to the clutch pedal? It will push more fluid to the slave. Couple of people have tried this and it worked.

This is the quote from the guy that did it "I was able to fix my clutch problems with the adjustment. My TSX 's clutch was not disengaging completely and it was grinding 1,2,3 and reverse with consistency. NOW = NO PROBLEMS. i did change my engagement point literally all the was back on the pedal which makes me wonder if I adjusted too much. ( 2 full turns on the nut)"

Hope this will fix your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Bleeding is your first bet, then the master and slave cylinders.

At this mileage, it could be your pressure plate starting to be fatigued.

J~
I think I will try this second, and the below thing first.

Have you tried to adjust the connector on the master cylinder to the clutch pedal? It will push more fluid to the slave. Couple of people have tried this and it worked.

This is the quote from the guy that did it "I was able to fix my clutch problems with the adjustment. My TSX 's clutch was not disengaging completely and it was grinding 1,2,3 and reverse with consistency. NOW = NO PROBLEMS. i did change my engagement point literally all the was back on the pedal which makes me wonder if I adjusted too much. ( 2 full turns on the nut)"

Hope this will fix your problem.
Thanks - will try this tomorrow if its relatively not freezing cold outside.

Is this a real fix, or a band aid solution to another problem (as mentioned earlier maybe master or slave?)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So I adjusted the clutch pedal so it engages about half way down, instead of basically on the floor like before. 100% FIXED. Butter smooth engagement, no grinds at all.

Although I noticed there is a crack in the clutch pedal bracket - I will have to put a strong washer under the nut soon and order a new pedal soon enough.

Strangely enough, no more clicks or creaks at all, either... Hrmmm... AWESOME!
 

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So I adjusted the clutch pedal so it engages about half way down, instead of basically on the floor like before. 100% FIXED. Butter smooth engagement, no grinds at all.

Although I noticed there is a crack in the clutch pedal bracket - I will have to put a strong washer under the nut soon and order a new pedal soon enough.

Strangely enough, no more clicks or creaks at all, either... Hrmmm... AWESOME!
Good to know, thanks for the update dude! Will probably check this when spring arrives in Quebec.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Good to know, thanks for the update dude! Will probably check this when spring arrives in Quebec.
I did it today here in Ottawa, it was -13*c and it was fine. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
is this nut adjustment on the clutch pedal assembly?
Yes, its a lock nut on the push rod that goes into the master cylinder, behind the pedal. Loosen the nut, turn the push Rod (pliers), then tighten the jam nut back. You may have to do the same with the lower sensor in front of the pedal as it stops the pedal from being moved as well. There is a service manual pdf on this site somewhere... Search for 'clutch pedal adjustment' or something to that effect.
 

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Did this just happened out of nowhere or did you just changed the CMC?

I paid someone to change out my CMC and my problems were just as you described in the original post. I then researched on it and thought the mechanic didn't bleed correctly. I re-bleed it and problem still persists. Adjusted the clutch pedal and everything was fine again.

Turns out the mechanic didn't adjust the clutch pedal and just installed it as is and the adjustment was off by a lot. People should definitely consider adjusting the clutch pedal after a CMC install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Did this just happened out of nowhere or did you just changed the CMC?

I paid someone to change out my CMC and my problems were just as you described in the original post. I then researched on it and thought the mechanic didn't bleed correctly. I re-bleed it and problem still persists. Adjusted the clutch pedal and everything was fine again.

Turns out the mechanic didn't adjust the clutch pedal and just installed it as is and the adjustment was off by a lot. People should definitely consider adjusting the clutch pedal after a CMC install.
It was a very slow progression to this point.

I still intend to bleed the system this spring/summer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So I ordered a new clutch pedal and installed it this weekend. Here's the old one. No wonder I was experiencing clicks, creaks, and all kinds of crap!

Now she's smooth and perfect again.

FYI, the crack looks worse because I bent the bracket while making room for my 1/4" drive socket on the leftmost nut, which is in a TERRIBLE spot for removal, and even worse for installation. I ended up having to remove a piece of the carpet as the little bugger fell behind it. ARGH!





 

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, Chief SuperModerator, Info Center / Car Care & D
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So was the crack visible with the pedal mounted?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Barely. Where it was was tucked behind the fuse panel and its hard to see, even with a flashlight. Looking at it dead on straight was a difficult one to see.
 
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