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Discussion Starter #1
hey guys - just lowered my CL9 a tad on Tanabe Sustec Pro GF
(about 1"-1.5" all round) and sitting on OEM Honda JDM CTR 18" wheels

just went in to get new tires and the alignment came up with the usual camber/toe problems...

front Toe Individual: LH +0.4mm // RH +0.1mm
front Camber Max. Dif: LH -0.50deg // RH -1.22deg
front Caster Max. Dif: LH +3.25deg // RH +3.08deg

rear Toe Individual: LH +1.2mm // RH +1.5mm
rear Camber Max. Dif: LH -3.12deg // RH -3.0deg


i was going to order 3 products from Hardrace to solve the problem...
- 6716 CL7 Front Upper Camber Kit

- 6379 CL7 Rear Upper Camber Kit (hard rubber)

- 6697 CL7 Rear Lateral Arm 4pc/set (hard rubber)


HARDRACE - Performance Suspension Parts

would have cost $830 posted total from JDMyard over in Sydney

but then while i was browsing the CT-Engineering website i saw this...
- Camber adjuster - Front Offset Ball Joint (TSX)

- Camber adjuster - Rear (TSX)


Acura TSX: Suspension & Chassis Upgrades

ill get to the point ...
Question 1.
what is the difference between the CT-E ball joint camber adjuster and the Hardrace Upper Camber kit?

Question 2.
do i really need the rear toe arm adjusters?

if i can save some money and get the CT-E parts i can then use that money to maybe add in a swaybar or something - but if i really need the proper parts from hardrace than i will go with them to dial in the settings properly

thanks in advance for the advise =)
:bowdown1: :cheers: :bowdown:
 

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They're all asleep Mate.

Have you read this?

http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/1st-gen-suspension/17359-do-i-need-camber-kit.html

Most don't fit a front camber kit because the double wishbone suspension doesn't throw the camber out much when lowered.
Your front camber is still within factory specs from memory.

Your backs need to come in though. Factory back specs are max -2.7 I think.

You already have toe and caster adjustment, which is important for tyre wear.

I'd just go the back camber arms for $150 from US ebay and spend the money on the sway bar and still end up with a lot of change out of $860!
 

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I went with the front upper ball joint/rear lower arms method to correcting my camber... I used Ingalls parts (same as SPC and from what I can tell, CT-E).. . Together, they give me more than enough camber adjustment (and are well-made and not super expensive)

If you get the rear lower arms, you don't need the rear upper arm (unless you really need more camber adjustment)

I agree w/ Madart, you shouldn't need a front camber kit, I only got one so I can dial in more negative camber for track days.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks for the info guys - really appreciate the guidance and direction!

what is better for the back - the upper arm or the lower arms?
when you say lower arm are you refering to these?


arnt they toe adjusters only?

im also having a problem with the front upper wishbones banging against the strut-towers/inside-fenders - raising the car up has minimized it but it still happens over the harsher bumps - will any of these products help with the issue?

i would really like to try and keep everything CT-E as i already have their intake and im planning on getting their headers as well

im torn between their 22mm swaybar and the Ultra-Racing 19mm kit though
 

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rear camber kit will be enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
and yeah i had a good read of the camber thread - i went through as many stickies/faq's as i could before i posted - some great info

whats the opininon on Roll Center Adjuster kits for CL9?
do they help at all - or better staying stock?
 

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thanks for the info guys - really appreciate the guidance and direction!

what is better for the back - the upper arm or the lower arms?
when you say lower arm are you refering to these?

arnt they toe adjusters only?

im also having a problem with the front upper wishbones banging against the strut-towers/inside-fenders - raising the car up has minimized it but it still happens over the harsher bumps - will any of these products help with the issue?

i would really like to try and keep everything CT-E as i already have their intake and im planning on getting their headers as well

im torn between their 22mm swaybar and the Ultra-Racing 19mm kit though
No they adjust toe and camber.. if you are aware of how camber changes, the lower arms work to correct negative camber by pulling in the knuckle instead how the upper arm pushes the knuckle out.

If you're worried about hitting the shock tower, I don't know for sure but ball joints may not be best... Totally not an expert but I would think that the extra height of the ball joint (not much but they are taller) would push the upper control arm up slightly..

I have the CT-E icebox, header, short shifter and sway bar... Love each one.
 

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and yeah i had a good read of the camber thread - i went through as many stickies/faq's as i could before i posted - some great info

whats the opininon on Roll Center Adjuster kits for CL9?
do they help at all - or better staying stock?
Without doing a full suspension analysis to figure out where your car's roll center is currently, you will probably make your handling worse by adding them. I would stay stock and don't mod for modding's sake.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks for that bill - the car is only on daily/street duties so im not going to bother with anything i dont need - i have a EG sedan track car with full adjust-ability for playing around with on weekend hehe

so im just down to my second round of questions in post #4

can anyone weight in on these?
 

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you want those lower bars (post #4) over the singe upper camber kit. the lower bars offer easier adjustability on the alignment rack and there's no ball joint to mess with. There is no better ball joint than the OEM one, you don't want to get rid of that then run into problems. Just buy the lower bars
 

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Discussion Starter #11
ok just to confirm i have read this right
the Hardrace lateral arms will do a better job than the CT-E camber adjuster?

6697 CL7 Rear Lateral Arm 4pc/set (hard rubber) @ $345aud posted (local)


VS

Camber adjuster - Rear (TSX) @ $200aud posted (usa)
 
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