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Royal Flush Crew
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Discussion Starter #1
Decided to make a DIY since I couldnt find one when installing it myself. My first time messing with the upper control arm and decided to pop my cherry and help others along the way. Sorry in advance if any pics blurry; they were all taken from my phone. :madfawk:

FAQ:
Did you feel a difference after you installed the skunk2 front camber kit? -Yes, it feels like I gained +10hp +5 lbs of torque :gapteeth:

Tools Needed:
•10mm Socket
•14mm Socket
•17mm Socket
•17mm combination wrench
•Socket Wrench
•Adjustable wrench
•Pliers ( To remove the cotter pin)
•Pitman Arm Puller (Rental at Autozone, was $15 in Los Angeles. May 2013)
•Jackstands
•Floorjack
•Breaker bar (Optional)
•WD-40 / PB-Blaster (Optional)

Lets get started, lift and jack your park up and remove the tires

Start with getting the coilovers/struts out of there.
Use a 17mm socket and a 17mm socket wrench to remove the bolt on the bottom of the shock fork that connects to the lower control arm.


Grab a 14mm socket wrench and remove the bolt located on the top portion of the shock fork that binds with the coilover/struts



Use a 14mm and 10mm socket wrench to remove the 5 bolts holding the coilover/strut in place.


Now the fun part! Removing the upper control arm
Use a 10mm socket wrench and remove the brake line mounting hardware


Grab your set of pliers and remove the cotter pin, I chose to use a needle nose plier



Use a 17mm socket wrench and remove the nut holding the balljoint


Use your Pitman Arm Puller rental tool and place it under the balljoint then grab an adjustable wrench and tighten the bolt until the balljoint pulls away


Use a 14mm socket wrench and remove the two bolts in the back of the upper control arm, and now you successfully removed the upper control arm without damaging the ball joint! :woot:



Now do all the steps in reverse when installing the Skunk 2 Front Camber Kit
•Place the skunk2 camber kit on place, install the two rear 14mm bolts
•Install the 10mm bolt that holds the brake line mounting hardware
•Put the balljoin in place, and install the 17mm nut
•Reuse or use a new cotter pin and place it in
•Grab your coilovers/struts and reinstall the five bolts on top in the engine bay
•Connect the shock fork and the coilover/strut and install the 14mm bolt on the top of the shock fork
•Install the 17mm bolt and nut on the bottom portion of the shock fork that connects with the lower control arm
AND YOUR FINISHED! :party:




:attention Feel free to +1 Rep if you find this DIY useful :goldcup:
 

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:+1:
Just did the same last Thusday night! The only difference is I didn't remove the shock from the strut "fork". I just unbolted the lower 17mm, unbolted the top 5 nuts, lower the assembly down and swung it to the left to unbolt the right 14mm UCA bolt and then the other bolt. To make sure the fork doesn't grind on the drive shaft boot I put the 17mm bolt back in with the nut and allows the fork to rest against the bolt. Doing alignment Monday morning.

What are you planning on setting the camber/toe?
 

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Royal Flush Crew
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791 Posts
Discussion Starter #3

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Royal Flush Crew
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Discussion Starter #6

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DiRTBAG Jose!
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Good DIY.
 

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I'm setting mine at -2 all round. 1mm toe out in front and 1mm toe in in back.
How much did you pay for the alignment with Skunk2?? I'm at SpeedStar in GTA getting the alignment done and they are charging $205+tax for slignment since I have this kit and the Ingalls. Labour time is 3-4 hours :eek: Is this the pricing in the new world of camber kits??
If anyone who have these 2 kits and got the alignment done could chime in on the alignment pricing would be great. I'm in GTA.
 

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Royal Flush Crew
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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Good DIY.
Thanks Gus!

I'm setting mine at -2 all round. 1mm toe out in front and 1mm toe in in back.
How much did you pay for the alignment with Skunk2?? I'm at SpeedStar in GTA getting the alignment done and they are charging $205+tax for slignment since I have this kit and the Ingalls. Labour time is 3-4 hours :eek: Is this the pricing in the new world of camber kits??
If anyone who have these 2 kits and got the alignment done could chime in on the alignment pricing would be great. I'm in GTA.
God damn!!! My alignment is free, so I couldn't help you on price. My cousins work at a alignment shop. As for toe set it to 0, it will chew your tires up
Edit: and alignment is no where near 3-4 hours. Maybe 1-2 hours at most if they're slow... Take your car to a different shop, sounds to me like they're taking advantage of you

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Royal Flush Crew
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Discussion Starter #10
Delete, double post
 

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Thanks Gus!

Edit: and alignment is no where near 3-4 hours. Maybe 1-2 hours at most if they're slow... Take your car to a different shop, sounds to me like they're taking advantage of you
Ya, sounds a bit odd. They first were talking about the need to lift the wheel up and down everytime they adjust and check the alignment on skunk2 due to not being able to reach the bolts with the suspension loaded. Then they came out saying one of the brand new hex bolts stripped and pulled me in to show (it was stripped when they took it out). While at it, I saw that the way the actual tech is doing it is he got this super long extension of the alan key that reaches the skunk2 UCA screwes from under the car without the need to take the wheels off. The car sits statically on the alignment rack lift all the time. So why BS me to begin with? Especially since they DO have experience with these kits for sure.
Well, they did take 4 hours. The back was done super quickly - maybe 30 minutes. The front they took longer - over 3 hours - not sure how long they were actually doing the work in the back of the shop - can't see from the waiting area (which is mega cold btw if you sit there for too long). They said that the price structure is as follows:
$120 stock alignment (only toes adjustable)
+$45 for rear Ingalls camber kit camber adjustment
+$55 for front Skunk2 camber kit adjustment
+ they wanted to charge extra for centering the wheel but spared me. Hmmm....:slant:

Anyone else in GTA for alignment price point references? Will check with can-alignment - he is super good but so far west out of town.
 

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GOOD JOB MAN! haha i see you used the pitman arm puller i told you about! it keeps you from destroying the ball joints! never use a fork unless youre gonna throw it away! :D see you around!
 

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you used the pitman arm puller i told you about! it keeps you from destroying the ball joints! never use a fork unless youre gonna throw it away! :D see you around!
:sprint:
Unless you planning on throwing away the ball joint, but even in that case the puller is still quicker and nicer.
 

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Royal Flush Crew
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Discussion Starter #14
GOOD JOB MAN! haha i see you used the pitman arm puller i told you about! it keeps you from destroying the ball joints! never use a fork unless youre gonna throw it away! :D see you around!
Thanks! Was easier than expected :)

:sprint:
Unless you planning on throwing away the ball joint, but even in that case the puller is still quicker and nicer.
Agreed the puller was pretty much effortless and pulled the ball joint away in matter of seconds



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Maxing out the front skunk2's at -4 camber
You have that hellaflush mod to get it at -4?
I was only able to get -2 on one side and it maxed out at -1.8 on the other. The ball joint is pushed all the way inwards with no more room to go. :donno:
The description for the part said that it allows -3 degrees by default. Weird.
 

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Royal Flush Crew
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Discussion Starter #16
You have that hellaflush mod to get it at -4?
I was only able to get -2 on one side and it maxed out at -1.8 on the other. The ball joint is pushed all the way inwards with no more room to go. :donno:
The description for the part said that it allows -3 degrees by default. Weird.
Yeah it has the hellaflush mod, I'm actually runnin -3.4 up front.


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Yeah it has the hellaflush mod, I'm actually runnin -3.4 up front.
Nice. That is crazy camber for street. You wouldn't have a pic of it or what's different about hellflush mod VS regular? From the pics in the 1st post I can't really make it out if it's any different. Looks about the same to me.
 

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:sprint:
Unless you planning on throwing away the ball joint, but even in that case the puller is still quicker and nicer.

I had no idea about the puller and tore up the balljoin with the fork. Smh. Eff it.

And paying that much is ridiculous man. I made a friend at NTB that does mine for $40. Amd I believe theres a Groupon that lets you get it for cheap right now. Im in TX so the groupon may not help. But theres for sure places that do it cheaper.
 

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Royal Flush Crew
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Discussion Starter #19
Nice. That is crazy camber for street. You wouldn't have a pic of it or what's different about hellflush mod VS regular? From the pics in the 1st post I can't really make it out if it's any different. Looks about the same to me.
There's a DIY for it on Azine, you flip the ball joints to squeeze the extra camber with pics on the thread. It's already on my car so it's hard for me to get any detailed pics of it


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I know im bringing up a DIY but does anyone know the torque specs to put these back together? Ill be installing my coilovers and Skunk2 Uppers soon.
 
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