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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
* Cleans fuel injectors
* Cleans carburetor jets
* Cleans carbon
* Stabilizes fuels
* Upper cylinder lube
* Removes moisture in fuel
* De-icer
* Frees sticky lifters
* Frees sticky rings
* Removes moisture in oil
* Cleans P.C.V. systems
* Cleans catalytic converter odors
* Oxygen sensor safe
Basically cleans our carbon deposits in your engine.

http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechGas.htm

Disclaimer: Using Seafoam wrong will mess up your car. Use with caution and at your own risk. My DIY is a quick guide but read the seafoam instructions and follow them carefully.

1) Find the brake booster line (outlined in yellow). I disconnected mine near the actually intake manifold instead of at the break booster (I circled two points, just use whichever is easier).

2) I pre-poured about 1/3 of the pint of Seafoam into a disposable plastic cup.
3) I started the car and then slowly let the brake line suck in the seafoam from my plastic cup. I poured very slow. Took about 1:30 - 2 minutes for me to drain the cup.
4) When all the seafoam is gone turn off your engine.
5) Wait 5 minutes
6) Turn car back on and drive around for a couple of minutes. If your car is really dirty, you'll have nasty black clouds coming form your exhaust. With 50k miles on my car, I didn't see anything. Guess that's a good thing, just not very satisfying. My friends old crappy Oldsmobile probably put a hole in the O-Zone layer on its own.
 
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That is the brake booster line, yes you are correct
 

· Bork Bork Bork
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks man. Apparently I can't give you rep because I've given it to recently. You're just too helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
updated from question to DIY :D

Maybe this will help some of you getting sub 20 mpg.
 

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good info...I'll buy some.
Here are Sea Foam's directions. Hope you don't mind that I copied & pasted from there.
http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechGas.htm


1. (Noted Above- see post #1)
With engine warm, slowly pour 1/3 to 1/2 pint through carburetor or throttle body throat. (If vehicle is port injected slowly pour SEA FOAM through direct manifold vacuum line that will feed all cylinders, possible sources are P.C.V. valve or brake booster line.) This will pull SEA FOAM down on top of the pistons and to the back of the intake valves to dissolve carbon. Turn ignition off. Restart engine after 5 minutes. If severe carbon build up is apparent, use more Sea Foam as previously directed. Make sure exhaust is well ventilated when using Sea Foam in these various ways as fumes will be extreme for a short time.​
2.
Pour 1/3 to 1/2 pint into oil crank case to clean rings, lifters, dirty parts and remove moisture.​
3.
Pour 1/3 to 1 full pint into fuel tank to clean injectors, carburetor jets, fuel lines and remove moisture.​
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yes, just disconnect the the clip halfway up my yellow line. It'll be a tube that feeds directly into the intake manifold (the four silver/metal tubes).
 

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Just be careful when you drive around to get rid of the smoke because you might get pulled over... best bet is to just rev your engine in a driveway or a vacant parking lot because if not you're making it dangerous for others because they wont be able to see past the smoke.
 

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I haven't used seafoam on the TSX yet. I've done it a few times in the past on my old jeep and my girls old dodge. I'll probably do it here soon since I just passed the 60k mark
 

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So will the vacuum line 'suck up' the seafoam or do you have to pour it in?

After reading the directions i tried this on my 93 4runner, i took the hose right off the brake booster. The vacuum was so strong that it sucked up all the seafoam in about 5 seconds and immediately started smoking...i shut it off right away, but i thought the engine was supposed to stall??
 

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if its suppose to clean you sparks plugs and all why would you change them?? i used this on my old gsr. followed the instructions and changed my oil. worked great. probably even better to just do it with a full tune up!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Seafom isn't needed for a 5 year old car. It may cause more problems than good. There is a reason why Honda recommends changing spark plugs at a 100k, The engines run clean, as long as you use 91+ octane.
Half my friends have 100k+ cars.
It did more good than harm for them.
I think its even more beneficial for cars with high mileage. The only problem I foresee is if it cleans out sledge deposits that are preventing leaks (same idea behind no using synthetic oil on high mileage cars).
 

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I did my treatment at 100k miles just before an oil/filter change, spark plug replacement, and coolant flush. My engine runs very smoothly now (though it was running fine before the treatment as well) but the main thing I noticed is that my mileage improved by about 1-2 mpg
 
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