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I hope the following guide is a useful reference tool for anyone seriously considering adding a bucket seat to their TSX. However, the electrical and air bag system and are modified, so anyone following this guide should proceed at your own risk.

Car: 2007 TSX 6MT NAVI

I wanted to do something a little different and use Euro R Recaro seating rails with a bucket seat to retain the stock seating height. This was important for me because this car is a dual purpose daily driver/track car and I’ve had trouble with visibility and racing seat rails in the past with my previous car (Buddy Club Rails and Bride Zeta 3 Sport). Additionally, I did not want the SRS light to activate with the bucket seat since there is an SRS side airbag within the stock seat.

With that said, here are the main materials:
CL7 Euro R Driver Side Seat Rail (Courtesy of 2.2Lude)
Recaro Profi SPG (from THMotorsports)
Recaro Side Mount for SPG (from THMotorsports)
Stock Driver Side Seat (removal of various sensors and plugs, reversible)

Part 1: Remove stock seat. Make sure you move the seat to the center before unplugging the power or else there’s no electricity to run the motors. (I have no pictures of this but the bolts can be removed with a 17mm socket. There are rear plastic covers that can be pried off with a flat head screwdriver. After unscrewing, tilt the seat back slightly and unplug the harness and series of connectors going from the chassis to the seat.

Part 2: Rail Preparation
Grind Flat Euro R Rails so that the Recaro Side Mounts can sit flush on the mounting surface.

Wooden Vise and Dremel Setup. Put on safety glasses and start cutting/grinding the tab. Grind/Sand off burrs

Fasten Seat Rail to Side Mount with Bolt, Washer, Nylon Locknut

The side mounts needed some modification because I felt like I was sitting too high with the lowest unmodified hole setting. I drilled two set of new holes one setting lower and used those for the final configuration. In the final configuration, I felt I’m at the same height level as my passenger.

Unmodified with markup:


Part 3: Removing Wiring
Stock Seat (wiring untouched for reference)

Remove the black box (attached with two bolts on the bracket) and connectors attached to the black box.

The removal process is straight forward. Connectors from the harness that connects to the black box will need to be removed.
• Remove motor connectors(connected near motors) –easy
• seat belt connector(blue connector) –easy
• green connector –easy
• seat limit switch (rear passenger side corner of the seat bracket) –medium
The connector can be removed fairly easily. For this switch, remove the cover, then use a screw driver to unfasten the limit switch from the rail. This limit switch is black and white, it will need to be extracted. If this switch isn’t extracted, the SRS light will turn on.

Plastic cover pried aside to allow removal of limit switch sensor.

Limit switch sensor

• Seat movement controller connector on driver side –difficult
Remove seat movement buttons to allow plastic to flex more easily

Jam small flashlight to open cavity (pointing screwdriver to switch connector location)

Another one connector front driver side corner of seat

Harness, Black Box, Seat Belt Buckle when removed

Part 4: Assembly
Yellow SRS plug from chassis needs to be connected with a 2.2ohm 5w Resistor (Purchased from a local Fry’s Electronics). Leads were shaped and cut to size and the rectangular resistor was connected. Then, the resistor was taped to the yellow connector with black electrical tape.

Reconnect black box, harness, yellow plug with resistor, seat belt sensor, seat limit switch, together. Zip tie and label as necessary

After the reconnections, I plugged the battery terminals back and turned the car to ignition found the SRS light turned off. After this verification, the seat was bolted back down with the old hardware (17mm bolts). The seat belt buckle was fastened down to the seat rail(14mm bolt, I think) and wiring was routed accordingly to prevent it catching on the rail (Euro R rail has a hole for the harness to go through)

Rebolt the seat in. Once the seat is in, the harness, sensors and electrical connectors were put into plastic bags for protection and tucked underneath the seat.

Finished Product:

I completed this modification in February of 2018. 6+ Months later, I have finally motivated myself to write this guide. I imagine people will find the wiring portion of this thread particularly useful. This whole process took some trial and error and about 3 weekends of seat assembly and disassembly. Special thanks to 2.2Lude for providing the CL7 Euro R rails and also guiding me through the necessary sensor disconnections from the stock seat.

The setup is still running well, no creaking or abnormal sounds. I’ve been to one track day and am preparing for another one. After researching online, I went with the Profi SPG. It feels snug for me -- 5’10”, 155lbs, 31Wx32L pants size. Kinda wish the side bolsters were higher and a little wider. Maybe the Bride Zeta 3 or Zeta 3 Type L would be a worthy alternative but still very satisfied with the SPG.
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