[Aragrev7]

This is a fix for the oscillating sound you might hear when braking only. It is a short interval scraping sound that matches the speed of your rotor, slowing down as you do.
This occurs because the brake pads have become stuck or pinched between the shims of the caliper. They are designed to move slightly as they glide along the surface of the rotor. Once rust, debris, or caliper paint build up, they begin to stick. What you hear is the "nubs" of the brake pads scraping against the shims.
Read; do not attempt if changing brake pads is beyond your skill.
Difficulty: 4/10 (Some rotary grinding)

Tools needed:

• Jack
  Jack stands
  Lug nut wrench
  Socket (extension, 14mm, 12mm)
  Anti-seize
  Flat head screw driver
  Rotary Tool (metal grinding bit, wire brush bit)
  Mini Quick clamps

PPE:

• Glasses (Mandatory, you're stupid if you don't, plain & simple)
  Gloves
  Long sleeves

Step 0:
Put your PPE on.

Step 1:
Jack up car relative to which brake & rotor is complaining. Make sure you do this the right way.

Step 2:
Remove the brake pads. Use the abundant guides available on the interblog or search the Google.
Two 12mm bolts on the caliper. One 12mm bolt on the brake line to free up some slack. Do not let it dangle.

Step 3:
Remove the caliper bracket that secures the caliper to the wheel hub. This will require the 14mm socket.
Test the two small caliper pistons (littlerubber accordion looking parts) to ensure they are not seized. They should compress and expand smoothly, returning to their natural position on their own.

Step 4:
Remove the shims from the caliper bracket. Use the flat head to push them off at the middle part pressure clipped in the bracket's depression.

Step 5:
Using quick clamps to hold the shims (fingers away), polish the shims clean with the wire brush bit.
Dremel:

Wire brush bit:

Dirty shims

Cleaner shims

Step 6:
Secure the bracket with the clamps. Using a metal grinding bit, clean off the contact areas. Keep the bit moving to prevent gouging the surface. It should remain flat. Light pressure works fine.
Bit:

Dirty bracket:

Cleaner bracket:

Step 7:
Use the grinder to clean the nubs of the brake pads.
Dirty brake pad:

Cleaned pad:

Step 8:
Apply anti seize to all the polished parts. Avoid getting it on the rotor surface and pad surface. Also apply to bolts removed.

Step 9:
Put it all back together. Make sure shims seat properly and securely. Unbend the little tabs to make a tighter fit in the bracket depression. Shims should sit flat against the bracket. Adjust as necessary.
Ensure brake pads slide on easily. This is the whole point!

Step 9:
Get your car back down without it toppling over in you.

Step 10:
Test your brakes. Bed them in if necessary (More Googlies if you don't know how).

Step 11:
+Rep & thanks


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[SeaJay]

Dremel work on those brakes looks nice. I might have to do that when I replace my Rotors to get everything looking clean again.

Everything posted here should be done when you do any brake work.
I just use a small sheet of 80 grade automotive sand paper. Dremel would be a little faster and a better finished look.

You can also use a Soft toothbrush and some brake cleaner on the little piston boots to clean them off, just be gentle so you don't push them open to expose the metal underneath (and grease). Pull them out fully to clean off the old grease and add new grease.

Don't forget to clean everything off when your done with some brake cleaner.