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Before continuing, lets talk about some other problems.

I just checked the park brake switch in my 06 (it should be the same as your 04). It turns out that the wire grounds when the lever is locked rather than released. This is backwards. This means the fogs will turn on when the lever is up, not down. This adds complications now. Basically, you're facing the same issues as the people who did the DRL mod.

Read posts #13 #16 and #31 on the DRL thread here:
http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/1st-gen-electronics/15662-daytime-running-lights-drl-installation.html

- If you have an AT, then you can have the fogs turn on when you shift out of park rather than working with the park brake. This would be a simple solution with no compromises.

With an MT, any solution would involve some kind of compromise.
- you can ditch the park brake idea
- or you can use a relay if you still want the park brake involved

Both of which have compromises as explained in the posts on the DRL thread I linked to. If you don't use the park brake switch at all, then your fogs will briefly flash while you are turning your key in the ignition, shut off while cranking, then turn back on again after the key goes back to 'on.'

If you do use a relay for the park brake, then the relay itself (rather than the bulbs) will do the same thing, namely, click on and off unnecessarily while starting

A time-delayed relay (as referred to in the DRL thread) would cost a little, but would solve the problem for the MT. This way, the fogs would delay while you were turning the key as to avoid flashing.

Read those posts on the DRL thread to see.

Furthermore, to answer some of the above questions you just asked:

First of all, the parklights are the orange corner compartments on the headlights. Most of the exterior lights light up with the parklights.

This is almost what I am looking for, in addition to DRL/Off switch, I want the light to stay on while I have my headlights on.
Do you mean the low or high beams? The fogs should stay on with the low beams modded or not. There's still a chance that blue/red switches off with the high beams.

What do I need to splice? From your statement above doesn't this mean just plugging the red/black wire into the accessory socket?
I meant to splice the red/black wire (coming from the switch) into the wire that powers the accessory socket. BUT, I looked into it and thought that it would make more sense to tap into underdash fuse#30 because it is hot in ON whereas the accessory socket is hot in ACC/ON. There's no need to have the fogs on in ACC.

When you say accessory socket, do you mean the constant 12v socket? Currently I have switch connected to the fuse/relay box inside of the car:
I mean the power outlet that you plug devices into, and no it is certainly not a constant +. It is ACC/ON, not constant. The (+) wire of the socket only gets power when the ignition is in ACC/ON. Again, it would be better to use fuse#30 (hot in ON).
 

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I meant to splice the red/black wire (coming from the switch) into the wire that powers the accessory socket. BUT, I looked into it and thought that it would make more sense to tap into underdash fuse#30 because it is hot in ON whereas the accessory socket is hot in ACC/ON. There's no need to have the fogs on in ACC.
I like the sound of this actually, the fogs will turn on automatically if place the key to ACC/ON with the switch = on. The fogs will flash a bit when starting the car BUT the great thing is that when I use my remote to lock the car - the fogs should not flash!
 

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^^That is exactly correct according to your diagram.

So you want to loose the park brake idea and just have the fogs turn on when you start the car (assuming you left the switch on last time)? And you'll accept the quick flicker during start?

And yes, it will solve the flickering with the remote.

If you like this way, then all you have to do is this:

^^The accessory socket wire you want to splice into is under the center panel (white/red) on the black plug that is right behind the socket in the armrest compartment. You do not have to access the fuse box for anything. This accessory socket circuit is on a 15A fuse, so use a 3A inline fuse, and stick with 18-22 gauge extension wire.

I'm not sure how the flicker during start will effect the bulbs. It could lessen their lives, but I don't know for sure.

And I'd still suggest using ON instead of ACC/ON, but using ACC/ON will still generally work the same. Its just that if you put the car in ACC without starting, the fogs will turn on.

Lastly, if you do this, don't forget to disconnect the (-) battery cable before cutting wires.

Good luck, and feel free to ask more
 

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hey peregrine...
i acidentally touched the parkinglight with the blublack wire...


bah was testing the relay heard the clicking..

now my headlights wont turn on at all.. and everytime i put car in on or start it.

my parking lights are on automatically.. cnat shut them off...
i rechecked all the wiring and everything is correct.. do you know what i blew? my fuses are good.....


also i cant signal either..
dang, i had the same problem!!! what is the fix? thanks in advance!
 

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I don't know for sure what the damage is, but touching a + wire (red/blk) to a ground wire (blu/blk) is always bad to do. You caused an electrical short or sure.

In the TSX, we have to be particularly careful with the parklight circuit because it is fused on a 15A fuse, which after reading this, is obviously too large to actually protect against damages in the event of an electrical short.

I have no clue how to fix it, so I can't help there. In my eyes, the best fix is prevention, and this will help you in the future.

Here are the rules I always follow, and I never had an electrical short yet:
- disconnect the (-) battery cable from the (-) battery post before cutting any wires... especially the + wires (because the frame is the ground). If you do not know whether a wire is a + or ground, then you shouldn't be doing the mod at all, but if you still are, then just disconnect the battery no matter what wire you're cutting. This will allow you to accidentally touch any wire together during the mod process without a short occurring.

- do not reconnect the battery until you are completely done and all the wires are sufficiently sealed up.

- to prevent a short from happening or proliferating after the mod is accomplished, always 1) use an inline fuse with a properly selected value, and 2) only use solder and heat shrink tubing to connect wires together instead of quick taps or wire splicers.

- do not touch the car's circuitry components together for testing. Instead, properly use a DMM to do the logical testing.

If anyone else has any input, then please feel free to jump in. I am not an expert, but I think I do a pretty good job when it comes to doing this stuff safely without causing damages.

I hope this helps, and sorry I have no advice on specifically what is damaged except that I suspect one thing might be the taillight relay.

Good luck, and I hope you do not get hit hard on repair costs. Keep us posted on your progress at fixing this.
 

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Where is the Parking Light RELAY? could not locate it..nor the FUSE..
 

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^^The fuse for the parklight circuit is underhood#4 (15A). It protects the taillight relay along with the entire set of lights that turn on with the parklight switch (parklights, taillights, license plate lights, cubby/glovebox, ambient blue ceiling light, and most of the interior button/switch illumination).

The parklight relay (aka taillight relay) is inside the Relay Control Module. This relay switches all the lights I just mentioned above as well. The relay control module is the right half of the underhood fusebox that does not open with the rest of the lid. I'm not sure how to open that myself, but I don't see why it couldn't be done. If you try, then be particularly careful.
 

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I thought it would be there too--but it was late last night--didn't bother trying. but Im hoping it's just a crapped out relay.
 

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Dang, I still can't figure out why the Parking Lights come on with ACC, i took out the stalk, removed the parking light connector under dash--lights went out, but no change.

I couldn't remove the RELAY CONTROL MODULES simply because it was too tight to pull out, i see the wires, but not clear enough.

VTREE, what did u figure out?
 

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the Dark blue/white wire needed a Ground, to function normaly. now to see if this mod will still work!
 

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...Im hoping it's just a crapped out relay.
The relay might be more expensive to replace than you think. The one guy with this same problem said something like $300 for an 'electrical box' to be replaced, but he never specified which electrical box exactly. I'm assuming it was the relay.

i took out the stalk, removed the parking light connector under dash--lights went out, but no change.
What did you check with the stalk?

And which connector did you pull from the underdash?

the Dark blue/white wire needed a Ground, to function normaly. now to see if this mod will still work!
Are you talking about the blue/white fog light switch output from the stalk? It should get a ground with the fog switch (even without the low beams on). However, the blue/black wire out on the relay itself should get a ground precisely when the fogs are supposed to light up (at the intersection of the HIDs and the fog light switch).
 

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Basically, I think the Trouble is in the STALK Switch, because U need to Apply GROUND to blu/wht wire while plugged in the stalk for the lights to function--BUTT

NOW, in order turn on headlights/parking lights--must turn on FOG switch (due to shorting problem earlier).

So FOG/HEAD/PARKING lights turn on together, or have Parking light ON by it self--

The LIGHTS now won't turn off with the alarm--programming problem now...


blah blah blah---im tired--too two days o get this to function ALMOST-Normal.
 

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CORRECTION:
The Lights are still programmable thru the meter/alarm... lights will turn after arming/locking.

The Parking Lights still Automatically turn on when key is in ACC when Fog Switch (on stalk) is turned OFF.

But, if you turn ON the Fog Switch (doesn't matter if Parking Light switch/Low Beam switch is ON)--Parking Lights will remain OFF when Key is in ACC mode.

All of the above conditions apply only when you have accidentally SHORTED OUT the Dark Blue/White wire to a (+) source.

Technically, this would be a Temporary Solution, until STALK is replaced.
 

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How did you short the blue/white wire to a +. Did you mean the blue/blk on the relay instead? If the ground in the short circuit was the blue/black or the blue/white wire (rather than the frame), then the current surge from the short also ran through the blue/white switch output wire in the cabin (in conjunction with the parklight load circuit), so it could have damaged that steering wheel stalk switch circuitry (including the combination switch control unit inside the wiper/washer switch).

Basically, this is without a doubt a malfunction because of the short. The ETM does not reveal all the circuitry in the control units (such as the one in the wiper/washer switch or inside the relay control module), so it is not easy to determine exactly what is wrong.

I hate to say, you are likely subjected to the dealership because of this, but if anyone else here has an alternative or the knowledge, then please jump in. But the dealership's tester kit (that spits out error codes) might be required. Other members before had similar malfuncions after a short.

Again, hopefully you don't get hit hard with repair costs.

Good luck, and by the way, a DMM (digital multimeter) is usually help full in debugging if you go that route.
 

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Agreed on all accounts--
Another info to add on this current issue:
FOG switch on STALK MUST be on to allow TURN Signals to work also.

At this point, I don't mind leaving the FOG Switch on, I turn on the Low Beams/DRL with it all the time neway... I just hope there wont be any long term damage.

on yeah, I have ran a wire tap from blu/wht wire thru the dash and while i had laid on the floor, i turned and moved the wire tap and accidentally touched another (+) wiring on the floor that went to my DRL circuit.

What can I say, it was late and I needed to finish--

Atleast, this info is available to those whom had the same problem.
 

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Anyone from NYC area know how to do this.. i am willing to pay to do this.....let me know thankss... dont wanna mess around with the wired
 

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The Mod is fairly easy. I follow this link from AZ on page 4 and one of the members did a very detailed write-up. FYI, this is my first mod, so for me a newbie, took me about 3~4 hours to understand the car and get it done.
 
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