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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an 04 TSX and the front end shakes while breaking. I don't feel it in the pedal but the steering wheel. I've replaced the front rotors and calipers 4 times and it keeps coming back after about 3mos, so that's not the problem.Did the rear rotors, but not calipers. Tires were replaced and balanced. Heavy downshifting almost eliminates the problem, but not completely. My mechanic is clueless as is the Acura dealer, any suggestions?
 

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Are the slide pins free and functioning properly? Brake lube applied in all the proper places?
Check your front compliance bushings, all the rest of the bushings on upper and lower arms, ball joints, tie rods, and end links.
 

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I have an 04 TSX and the front end shakes while breaking. I don't feel it in the pedal but the steering wheel. I've replaced the front rotors and calipers 4 times and it keeps coming back after about 3mos, so that's not the problem.Did the rear rotors, but not calipers. Tires were replaced and balanced. Heavy downshifting almost eliminates the problem, but not completely. My mechanic is clueless as is the Acura dealer, any suggestions?
After replacing the rotors it stops shaking for 3 months?
 

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Going with shandalo on this one. The calipers are dragging. The shake returns because the heat from the dragging calipers is warping the rotors. When I bought rebuilt calipers to fix my recurring warped rotors the pins included looked like bolts from home depot. They were so poorly machined they had ridges that guranteed drag on the new calipers. I bought good pins locally and never had a problem again.
 

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If it keeps coming back after 3 months when you replaced the caliper (assuming ass'y, so new pins too) and rotor, it could be your driving habit. My mom does the same thing she can't keep a straight rotor for over 6 months and I don't know the exact cause, but when I kept the car for a year after new brakes it didn't happen. It was a Nissan Altima btw.

If you do most of your braking near the stopping point and hold the brake until the front of the car bounces back up and hold it there, yeah it's you.

I tend to shed more speed as soon as I start braking (which pisses some people off who wants to race me to the red light with no turning lane) and when I'm almost stopped I release brake to bring the front of the car back up slowly. If it's an automatic you can even finish braking (speedo 0mph, car still rolling) half-car length earlier and let it creep forward to come to a complete stop to let your brakes cool so the pads don't leave impressions of themselves on the face of the rotor.
 

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I recommend non-OEM rotors and pads on top of what everything else everybody said. I went with the street warrior z26 rotors and pads and overall they have been the best brakes I've ever owned. Very minimal dust and shake-free and they look cool and also very affordable
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Going with shandalo on this one. The calipers are dragging. The shake returns because the heat from the dragging calipers is warping the rotors. When I bought rebuilt calipers to fix my recurring warped rotors the pins included looked like bolts from home depot. They were so poorly machined they had ridges that guranteed drag on the new calipers. I bought good pins locally and never had a problem again.
What about when the calipers were replaced and it still returned?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If it keeps coming back after 3 months when you replaced the caliper (assuming ass'y, so new pins too) and rotor, it could be your driving habit. My mom does the same thing she can't keep a straight rotor for over 6 months and I don't know the exact cause, but when I kept the car for a year after new brakes it didn't happen. It was a Nissan Altima btw.

If you do most of your braking near the stopping point and hold the brake until the front of the car bounces back up and hold it there, yeah it's you.

I tend to shed more speed as soon as I start braking (which pisses some people off who wants to race me to the red light with no turning lane) and when I'm almost stopped I release brake to bring the front of the car back up slowly. If it's an automatic you can even finish braking (speedo 0mph, car still rolling) half-car length earlier and let it creep forward to come to a complete stop to let your brakes cool so the pads don't leave impressions of themselves on the face of the rotor.
I'm 64 yrs old and have never had this problem with any other car I've owned, nore with the '99 Mustang I drive when this car is in the shop.
 

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I am 54 years old and have owned cars as old as a 69 Thunderbird and have worked on the brakes on all of them. I also never encountered this particular problem. Unless you did the work yourself and inspected all the parts, I still say the calipers are heating up your rotors because of drag. I could not see the any defects when I removed my old calipers other than slight wear on the pins.
 

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I run OEM calibers, EBC USR rotors and Red Stuff pads. Works like a charm. I also use teflon/SS hoses for improved feel.

And Yes I've experienced rotor warping in low/mid end vehicles due to driver habits combined with weak design. My buddy's ford probe in college and my sister's current mini-van come to mind. If the vehicle is prone to that, the trick is to avoid coming to an instant stop after using the brakes hard. So after a hard decel down a hill or a freeway offramp, as you approach the stoplight slow to a crawl 1-2 car lengths early then SLOWLY and smoothly let it crawl to a stop. That lets the heat dissipate more evenly (vice clamping hot pads on a narrow section of rotor).

But I've never heard of that problem on a modern sports car, nor would I expect to unless you're on the track or maybe severe mountain roads. Or using cheap after-market parts maybe. If my TSX started doing that I'd get new calibers, pads, and rotors. For calipers at least dissaessemble, clean and inspect all parts. Unless you have time on your hands (COVID?) it might be easier to just get new OEM calipers. Also if it happened once, the rotors are toast as they now has uneven metallurgy and they need to be scrapped (turning probably won't help, it probably goes too deep in the metal).
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have an 04 TSX and the front end shakes while breaking. I don't feel it in the pedal but the steering wheel. I've replaced the front rotors and calipers 4 times and it keeps coming back after about 3mos, so that's not the problem.Did the rear rotors, but not calipers. Tires were replaced and balanced. Heavy downshifting almost eliminates the problem, but not completely. My mechanic is clueless as is the Acura dealer, any suggestions?
I think I found the problem...had the PCV valve replaced, it was very clogged, and things are getting better every time I drive the car. Guessing there was little or no engine vacume getting to the booster unit! The VSA light came on, so it's back in the shop, but getting it back today, and will update this post. Lesson learned, replace your PCV valves!
 

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I think I found the problem...had the PCV valve replaced, it was very clogged, and things are getting better every time I drive the car. Guessing there was little or no engine vacume getting to the booster unit! The VSA light came on, so it's back in the shop, but getting it back today, and will update this post. Lesson learned, replace your PCV valves!
Thanks for the update! Definitely let us know if you have any further issues. I'm around 90K miles, so I have a lot of maintenance procedures to do to my 2008 TSX, and replacing the PCV valve is one. Hopefully it will prevent future brake issues like you described.

I replaced all four brake calipers, pads & rotors due to "dragging brakes" (due to excessive corrosion) about 9 months ago, and I really want to keep my brakes in a perfect working condition!
 
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