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Yesterday was good car-modding weather, so I began another LED mod. I'm adding a 194/168 bulb socket to each front footwell. This way, I can put any 194/168 bulb in them. These will be wired to the door trigger wires so each footwell lights up with its specific door. Note that this isn't the dome light fading wire. These work only with their own door and shut off right when the door closes.

I'm not completely done yet either. I'd say I'm at about 90% completion. I found the locations of the wires to tap, soldered the LED harness together, and mounted it mostly in place. All the wire terminals of my harness have been run to where they tap but not actually spliced in yet. Everything is ready for the next day of nice modding weather (rain today). So I'm posting what I did so far, and I'll update the thread when I finish.

Another note: I have a different mod idea that involves putting a white 5mm LED into the glovebox and one also in the armrest storage compartment. I included the wires for this mod too in my harness as to avoid running wires twice through the same places. So you'll see the glovebox/armrest LEDs referred to a few times here.

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for damages you cause if you use this write-up. Don't try something like this unless you know that you can do it safely. Also note that this is for the 2006 model.

Step 1- Locating the Wires to Tap

Locating the wires to tap first is a good check of feasibility. Also, knowing where the wires are determines how I build the harness- how long the wire terminals have to be, etc.

Driver Door Trigger Wire:
This wire is pin-2 (yellow/blue) of connector-J on the underdash fusebox. It is a ground wire that switches on/off with the door being open/closed.

Connector-J is a light-green 21-Pin connector. You have to take the driver footwell panel off to access it, and its right on the front.

Passenger Door Trigger Wire:
This wire is Pin-5 (female = yel/grn, male = yellow) of connector-732 behind the glovebox.
Connector-732 is a gray 12-Pin connector.

To find this connector, I had to pull down the glovebox door. Here is how I did it:

You have to take these pieces out here (one from each side):


Here is the behind showing how it locks. Pop it out:


To get the whole thing out, you have to close the glovebox door a little more than wide-open, then pull it out like in the pic below (you have to close the door half way to put them back in too).



This piece is next. Look at where its circled, that's where it detaches. Grab the arm close to the bottom where its circled, and push it toward the front of the car


Don't let the glovebox door fall down on its own. The little string still holds it up, but not too sturdily. And circled is connector-732 that contains the passenger door trigger wire (pin-5).


Now that I have the locations of the wires and know that accessibility is feasible, I can start step-2.
 

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Step-2 Building the Harness.

This is easy, everything gets + from fuse#6 (in parallel branches), and the ground wires have to run to the tapping points I found in step-1 above.

Materials:
- Add-a-circuit fuse tapper (mini-blade) and a 3A fuse
- PL07-8 two-way bullet connectors from autolum
- 194/168 bulb sockets from autolum
- 20-22 gauge stranded extension wire
(These parts are shown/labeled in pics below)

I soldered the add-a-circuit to the plug-in base. One branch is for the glovebox/armrest LEDs, and the other branch is for the footwells. They're two separate mods, so they are on separate plug-in pieces. (Note: everything was soldered).


I mounted the plug-in base here. The rest of the harness will plug into it.


Then I started on the bulb socket branch for the footwells. These are 194 bulb sockets from autolum. Any 194/168 wedge bulb will fit. I have two UV 9LED bulbs to use (might switch to 6LED).


I added ground wires (blue) to the sockets


Then I included wires for the glovebox/armrest LEDs, and everything runs through the tubing (I have to get some more of that stuff).




I kept the glovebox/armrest ground wires green and the footwell ground wires blue. All the positive wires will be connected to the same fuse (6) and are all red- good color convention. Now I'll know which wires are which when I get back out there to finish.

This is a tangible diagram of the harness (I still have to put the 5mm LEDs on):


Step-3 Mounting the Harness/Running the Wires:

This was the annoying part, but it wasn't too bad overall. The harness that was already built had to be fitted through the dash. It starts at the fusebox, goes past the driver side, and goes through to the center where it branches off two ways: to the center armrest area, and to the glovebox/passenger side. If you did the footwell/cubby mod, then I used the same entry points to get through the center from one side to the other. The only safety issue is to make sure the wire terminals (where copper sticks out) are insulated while you're running them through so they don't poke a connector or something and cause a short. Notice in the very last above picture I posted... you can see the tips of some wires wrapped with black tape.

I didn't take pics of the mounted harness because there will still be some minor readjusting of its positioning. I still have to mount the 194 sockets in a good place. I also have to add the white glovebox/armrest LEDs too.

When I finish up, I'll update this thread with the rest of what I do, pictures of the lights lit up, etc. I plan to get this done within a week from now hopefully.
 

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Wow can't wait to see this finished. Good thing I haven't finished the other mod because this seems more like what I'm aiming for. Nice write up btw +1
 

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Update: I was about to finish up, so I tested the door wires I planned to tap (for the footwells) with a multimeter just for confirmation. These are the wires I mentioned above. Good thing I followed the rule of always confirming with a meter that the wire does what its supposed to because I'm not getting a 12V measure between fuse#6 and those wires when the door opens. According to the manual, they should, but I'm not seeing it with the meter- odd. These wires are outputs from the MICU, so this might have something to do with it.

Instead I'm going to tap different door wires that do the same exact thing. There are harder-to-reach door wires that come directly from the door switches rather than through the MICU. Those should have the door open/close function for sure. The reason I wanted to avoid tapping these ones at first is because they're way on the back of the fuse box... much harder to reach. So I'm going to take more stuff apart now.

These are the new wires:
Pin-15 (green) of Connector-E (on back of underdash fusebox) comes directly from the driver door switch.

Pin-12 (lt-grn/red) of Connector-H (back of underdash fusebox) comes directly from the passenger door switch.

Both wires should run through the floor harness.

I'll post back with updates later. Note: don't use this write-up to do a mod until I finish and we know for sure that it works.
 

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I finally got around to working on this mod. I waited so long because I couldn't figure out how to get these new footwell lights to not overlap with my other footwell lights.

Anyway, on the 1st few posts, you'll see I added 194/168 bulb sockets to each front footwell that turn on when I open the door (driver and passenger side separate). The driver socket gets power with only the driver door, and vice versa. There's no fading or dimming. I can plug in any 194/168 bulb I want. In case you don't know, 194/168 is the size used by our car for parklights, tail lights, tag lights, and door courtesy lights.

I only powered the driver side socket so far. I put the socket here.


Then I tried out 4 different 194 LED bulbs I have laying around and took some pics.

1) WLED-WHP from SBL- the ones many of us here use for whiter tag lights


(a quick test to make sure the bulb works)


then I plugged it in



2) 921-CW12 from SBL (cool white)





3) 921-B9 from SBL or autolum (blue)





4) 921-UV9 from SBL (purple)


^^its impossible to take a shot of purple... looks blue, but its really deep purple. In fact I like the purple the best. I'm keeping the purple bulb in for good.

Now the wiring:

The problem I had is that I already installed footwell lights months ago that turn on when I start the car, so I didn't want these new ones overlapping with the old ones when I open the door. I therefore wired it so the sockets only get + when the ignition is OFF. I did this by taking advantage of the relay I installed for the DRL mod I did. It provides power to the DRL when the ignition is ON, but when its off, it powers the footwell light sockets instead. It just switches back and forth as I turn the ignition on/off. In English, this just means the door triggers the light when the car is off, but when the car is on, the light is disabled completely.


I did have to run a wire through the firewall because my DRL relay is in the engine bay. So here's how I did it the second time: since I already had wires going through, I pulled some of the old wire's slack back into the cabin, I e-taped the new wire terminal to the old wire, then I pulled it back through from the other side. The rest was just some 'gymnastics' to reach and grab it. Lastly, I used a 1/2A fuse for this (good protection).

Then I grounded the driver socket to the driver door-open wire. You can access it on the fusebox, but since I had my mechanic friend fix my floor panel, I spliced into the wire directly off the door switch. It'd be easier for anyone else to use the wires in the 1st post of this thread.


Here's the green wire I taped for door-open (its a ground wire). Its right behind the black door switch in the door well


I'll be wiring the passenger side next
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I finished wiring the passenger side earlier today...

The wire to tap is the far right cavity toward the front (yel/grn) of this plug behind the glovebox.


Here's the wire (yel/grn) and again the last cavity on the right farthest from you. This wire gets a ground when the passenger door opens. Its what powers the passenger door courtesy light.


So I mounted the bulb socket here for now (I'll end up drilling a hole in the kick panel later for it). All I had to do was run the ground wire of the socket (blue extension pointed out) from the footwell area up into the area behind the glovebox to tap the yel/grn wire on that plug.


After getting the wire out of the footwell area, I ran it along here behind the glovebox.


Then I simply spliced into the wire (I disconnected the battery for this just to be safe even though its a ground wire). The wire comes from the MICU, so I was extra careful with it.


Purple doesn't show up good in pictures, plus I used a real narrow bulb on this side because that's all I had in purple
 

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I really like the idea of the bulb socket. So that when the LED's fade out due to wear, I can just buy new LED's and swap them out instead of splicing in a new one.
 

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thank god I found your thread! doing the same thing but using 5mm flat led's and also wiring other ones for bottom for the door panel to glow on the ground when doors are open. so far I've done driver side but easily wired to door light
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yea, if you're putting the leds inside the door itself, it'd be best to splice into the wires inside the door right off the bulbs like you said. I put mine in the footwells, so I found the wires inside the car (out of the doors) to avoid running wires into the doors.

can't wait to see your finished product!
 

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Well I went a little crazy with them since I got 10 for $9 I did the foot area, doors, glove box, inside armrest, and ash tray.(those 3 come on with lights on)

I try and make a post about it all tomarrow. was also yellow tinting my fogs and f'ed up my light bulbs. and installing my laser jammer finally
 

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Discussion Starter #14
^^I did the same... I as well went crazy and wired my glovebox, armrest storage, cubby, ashtray, and footwells too. My small storages (cub, ashtray, armrest) are all blue/uv when the parklights turn on, but they also light up brighter, with additional white leds, using a switch (for seeing purposes). Ha its good to see there are other flashaholics like me around
 
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